GM Inside - Muscle Cars - Jeep

Support FSC and see no ads! - Click Here
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 77
Like Tree1Likes

Autoride Disconnect

This is a discussion on Autoride Disconnect within the Technical / Maintenance forums, part of the General Discussion category; Originally Posted by magbluff My son is a gm tech. We have access to the tech II so the reflash ...

  1. #21
    Suburbanite Jacqson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N. Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1,644

    Re: Autoride Disconnect


    Support FSC and see no ads! - Click Here
    Quote Originally Posted by magbluff View Post
    My son is a gm tech. We have access to the tech II so the reflash is not an issue. The proper coil spring replacement was the issue. Thanks for the info.
    Let me know how the reflash goes with the Tech II. My understanding is it's not as simple as just removing the Z55 and ZK3 codes.
    2011 Silverado 3500HD CCSB 4x4, S&B Intake w/ cold air scoop, Banks Monster Exhaust, Kennedy Lift Pumps, Nicktane Adapter, Cognito Leveling kit w/UCA's, Bilstein 5100's, Bushwacker OEM Flares, Nitto Terra's 295/70/18, Rigid Dually HD D2's, Edge Insight, Rare Parts HD Tie Rods.

  2. #22
    Registered User JimAckley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Age
    26
    Posts
    513

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I have an '04 Yukon XL 2500 4x4 and am about to pull the autoride. I was also going to crank my TBs and go with blocks in the back for a couple extra inches of height and am going to use the shocks that Bilstein recommends on their site for a slight lift on that truck. My question/concern is how did removing autoride affect your bodyroll as you corner, etc? I HATED my 03 Z71 suburban's body lean and do not want to revisit those days.
    '05 Yukon XL 2500 8.1 | 2" Lift, Stage-2 4L80E, AC Delco 41-983 @ .045, 180* Failsafe, BB Tuned

  3. #23
    Suburbanite Jacqson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N. Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1,644

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Quote Originally Posted by JimAckley View Post
    I have an '04 Yukon XL 2500 4x4 and am about to pull the autoride. I was also going to crank my TBs and go with blocks in the back for a couple extra inches of height and am going to use the shocks that Bilstein recommends on their site for a slight lift on that truck. My question/concern is how did removing autoride affect your bodyroll as you corner, etc? I HATED my 03 Z71 suburban's body lean and do not want to revisit those days.
    Once I installed the Bilsteins I really didn't notice much difference. However just to help things along I replaced all the rubber body cushions, UCA, LCA and Rear Spring Eyes with Polyurethane. The truck has zero body roll and this is with a 5" lift kit. Suburbans tend to have body roll because the truck is long, the body is heavy and it's sitting on basically rubber pads that flex. The idea is for a smooth ride and no cab noise, not for performance. If you have any more questions, please let me know.
    2011 Silverado 3500HD CCSB 4x4, S&B Intake w/ cold air scoop, Banks Monster Exhaust, Kennedy Lift Pumps, Nicktane Adapter, Cognito Leveling kit w/UCA's, Bilstein 5100's, Bushwacker OEM Flares, Nitto Terra's 295/70/18, Rigid Dually HD D2's, Edge Insight, Rare Parts HD Tie Rods.

  4. #24
    Registered User srranch1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I have a 2002 Suburban 2500 LT (8.1L) with Autoride. What mine has is a active electric shock valve system that uses the body to axle positions to control shock valving. There are wiring inputs to every shock, with no air ride pump or input. My vehicle has 150K miles, and after looking at all the online data, I have replaced all 4 original shocks, this weekend, with Monroe Gas Magnums from Checker. ($42 each). I looked at other shock options, and could only justify the higher cost of the KYB/Bilstien if I was positive of 5 years of continued ownership. I also looked at the Arnot system, again, same issue. If I had a 1500, and wanted to prolong ownership, with Air Leveling Autoride, I would look into Arnot.

    On to the switching over process. You unplug the elecrical connectors at the top stem of the front shock, and the top of the rear shocks. The front pull off, but are tight. Be careful, you do not want to damage the connectors. The rear unplug with a small catch on the plug. It may be easier to unplug when the shocks are unbolted and you can lower them away from frame. Replacement with Monroe's was just like a normal shock.

    My Suburban, had gotten some minimal handling issues, like roughness over highway seams, and minor tracking issues. The Monroes have improved this, but I will be going on a 1000 mile trip over the Holiday, so will have more feedback then. The Check Suspesion notice came on after second drive, then, did not reappear on a later drive. I suspect it auto re-sets? I have seen other sites that have said you can have the Code removed from the SCM/BCM module. I may look into this later?

    On another note, I did disconnect the electrical connectors and drive the vehicle, with original shocks. Big difference in ride(very bouncy). I had been told by the Alignment shop, that it appears one shock on both ends was leaking. Once I got them out, it is hard to confirm. All 4 shocks still had gas pressure. But ride is better after replacements.

    Thanks for all the input to this and other Repair sites. I could never justify the $1000 plus for the shocks from GM/Delco for a vehicle this old.

  5. #25
    Registered User srranch1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    This is an update to my previous message:
    I looked at the resistors that Jacqson recommended, and also checked the resistance for an original(old) front and rear shock. Everything seems to agree, so I did an on-line order for the resistors. $6 ea plus shipping.

    I cut off the old plugs, crimped on new push in connectors and made matching attachments for the resistors. Installed and zip tied for safety.

    Started the engine and the “Service Ride Control” warning was gone. Test ride and drive for a day, no light, so seems all is well.

    Again, Jacqson and all who post for this issue were a big help. Thanks!

  6. #26
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    2

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I have been researching for ever to figure out what to do about these dang shocks. I've a 2001 8.1 suburban only 80k miles, just purchased it, but it seems like the shocks are shot. Had it up on a lift couple nights ago and see that the front bump stops are shot completely. I suspect the front shocks are shot as well as it sure seems to have a severe rake front to back, I've not measured but it's got to be 3" difference.. anyway I would really be interested in what resisters were used???? I have tried several online searches for factory shocks, man are they difficult to find! WAY too much $$ too. If anyone could help me out with the resisters that would be great.

  7. #27
    Registered User srranch1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Here is a link to the resistors I bought, these allowed me to not have to cut or splice anything, Good Luck

    http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...FC-GB100000001

    3.9 Ohm 25 Watt Resistors

    I cut the old plugs off, spliced in quick connects both direction, plugged these in, taped them up for minimal protection, zip tied out of way.

    I have had this for 6 months now no issues. I would replace with the better Bilstein or KYB gas shocks, they are worth the extra money in ride quality.

  8. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    2

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Quote Originally Posted by srranch1 View Post
    Here is a link to the resistors I bought, these allowed me to not have to cut or splice anything, Good Luck

    http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...FC-GB100000001

    3.9 Ohm 25 Watt Resistors

    I cut the old plugs off, spliced in quick connects both direction, plugged these in, taped them up for minimal protection, zip tied out of way.

    I have had this for 6 months now no issues. I would replace with the better Bilstein or KYB gas shocks, they are worth the extra money in ride quality.
    Hey thanks, did you just measure resistance and decide to give this a try? I tried your link and it doesn't work... thanks for writing what they are that's great. I can't believe that there isn't more out there about these as the replacement shocks are so dang expensive.

  9. #29
    Registered User srranch1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Try this link below. You can also search in Newark for the 3.9 Ohm, 25 W resistor. There are 2 types, either will work, I used the cheaper wirewound, but would look more at the other one, now that I know this works. i really got the insight from Jacqson here. He has done a lot of the work. http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthr...de-Disconnect&

    I did take a front and rear shock and check resistance. I search the web for a few days, but Jacqson explained the issues the best. I also looked at all alternatives from Arnott and Suncor and GM. I did go with the cheaper Monroe Gas Magnums, since I am just trying to keep this in reasonable condition for the next 2 years. It has 168k on it. After that I will not use it as primary vehicle, but just for towing needs.

    http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...atchallpartial

    Hope this all helps.

  10. #30
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    East Coast USA
    Posts
    1

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I DID IT!! Read everything, put new, regular Monroe Shocks on the front of my 2001 Suburban, 1500 LT, with autoride, spliced into the shock connectors for the autoride, with 22 ohm resistors, only two wires-easy beans, and the light went out. I did check the resistors for heat-none so I taped them up. Thanks everyone that has gone before me with this problem.

  11. #31
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Wilkes NC
    Posts
    2

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I have a 2001 2500 also I need the info of the guy I can send that to be re done. Or give me where I can get 3.9 Ohm 25 Watt Resistors. If I change out these will my light go out or do i have to have it reprogrammed.
    Last edited by candprecision; 11-30-2011 at 07:02 PM.

  12. #32
    Registered User JimAckley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Age
    26
    Posts
    513

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    RadioShack should have the resistors you need. If not, try www.PartsExpress.com. Using the resistors keeps you from needing to reprogram, since they trick the computer into thinking your shocks are still in place.
    '05 Yukon XL 2500 8.1 | 2" Lift, Stage-2 4L80E, AC Delco 41-983 @ .045, 180* Failsafe, BB Tuned

  13. #33
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Wilkes NC
    Posts
    2

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I need someone to send me the how to change this over with the 3.9 Ohm, 25 W resistor as far as how to hook up and all.. Also i need to know what i need to buy from radio shack because i'm not seeing what I need there.

  14. #34
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    '01 Yukon Denali XL with autoride. I took need to replace my shocks and will prob go the resistor route. However, if I replace the rear air shocks, can I install new air shocks and allow the factory compressor to operate? Or does the resistor trick stop the auto lift function? Meaning, I don't want to disconnect all the auto lift features, just the shocks with no error lights. Sounds like the resistor trick fixes the light issue, but does it disable the auto lift feature? I pull a travel trailer and the auto lift would be nice to keep.
    Last edited by indycamper11; 04-30-2012 at 02:09 PM.

  15. #35
    Registered User JimAckley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Age
    26
    Posts
    513
    1500 or 2500?


    ---
    I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?xzzejl
    '05 Yukon XL 2500 8.1 | 2" Lift, Stage-2 4L80E, AC Delco 41-983 @ .045, 180* Failsafe, BB Tuned

  16. #36
    Suburbanite Jacqson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N. Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1,644

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Quote Originally Posted by JimAckley View Post
    1500 or 2500?


    ---
    I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?xzzejl
    If it has a factory compressor it's not a 2500. Only the 1500's had the load leveling feature
    2011 Silverado 3500HD CCSB 4x4, S&B Intake w/ cold air scoop, Banks Monster Exhaust, Kennedy Lift Pumps, Nicktane Adapter, Cognito Leveling kit w/UCA's, Bilstein 5100's, Bushwacker OEM Flares, Nitto Terra's 295/70/18, Rigid Dually HD D2's, Edge Insight, Rare Parts HD Tie Rods.

  17. #37
    Registered User Stevenc942's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Georgia-DQH
    Posts
    48

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    On the same subject...
    '05 1500 with Autoride/Rear leveling

    I understand the shock replacement + resistor setup but when my air compressor failed in the past I got the dash message. That being said, if I replace my shocks, add resistors and move on what do I do about the compressor to #1 keep it off and #2 keep any compressor related messages off? There's many threads regarding the shocks but from my experience the comp. is just as much of a light-bug.

  18. #38
    Suburbanite Jacqson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N. Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1,644

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Quote Originally Posted by Stevenc942 View Post
    On the same subject...
    '05 1500 with Autoride/Rear leveling

    I understand the shock replacement + resistor setup but when my air compressor failed in the past I got the dash message. That being said, if I replace my shocks, add resistors and move on what do I do about the compressor to #1 keep it off and #2 keep any compressor related messages off? There's many threads regarding the shocks but from my experience the comp. is just as much of a light-bug.
    When you add resistors you're fooling the system in to thinking everything is OK. Since the load leveling feature(Air Compressor) is integrated in to the system it will not work properly because it is not getting any info from the position sensors or the shocks because of the resisitors inserted in to the wiring. IMHO, adding these resisitors is a half baked method of trying to neutralize the Autoride System, especially on a 1500 which has the load leveling feature. Aside from the fact that parts replacement for the Autoride system is expensive it is a very good feature for a full size light truck, non the less. The 2500's on the other hand do not use the load leveling system and all they use are the autoride shocks and position sensors. Basically you have 2 choices: 1) Use the system the way it was designed or: 2) Remove it and have your BCM tuned and remove all the RPO codes for Autoride, this way it will be like the truck never had the system in the first place. I did this with my 02 2500 Sub and have never regretted it, hence this thread for other guys thinking about doing the same thing. No Mickey Mouse sensors, either use the system the way it was designed or remove it completely. JMHO.
    Last edited by Jacqson; 05-14-2012 at 08:45 PM.
    2011 Silverado 3500HD CCSB 4x4, S&B Intake w/ cold air scoop, Banks Monster Exhaust, Kennedy Lift Pumps, Nicktane Adapter, Cognito Leveling kit w/UCA's, Bilstein 5100's, Bushwacker OEM Flares, Nitto Terra's 295/70/18, Rigid Dually HD D2's, Edge Insight, Rare Parts HD Tie Rods.

  19. #39
    Registered User Stevenc942's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Georgia-DQH
    Posts
    48

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    I understand what the resistors are doing and I agree it's half-baked but it appears to be simple and effective. I may go back to the air system when I get another boat (way down the road) and I would like to keep it "available" if the next owner wants to use it. In the mean time I haven't read any comments on the disposition of the compressor to keep the warnings off. I did read your entire write-up on your 2500 but I thought you may have some insight on the comp issue. Nice thread btw. I called one of the places selling these conversion kits and he couldn't even explain what would happen to compressor without air-springs installed. I immediately removed them from my short list.

  20. #40
    Suburbanite Jacqson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N. Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1,644

    Re: Autoride Disconnect

    Quote Originally Posted by Stevenc942 View Post
    I understand what the resistors are doing and I agree it's half-baked but it appears to be simple and effective. I may go back to the air system when I get another boat (way down the road) and I would like to keep it "available" if the next owner wants to use it. In the mean time I haven't read any comments on the disposition of the compressor to keep the warnings off. I did read your entire write-up on your 2500 but I thought you may have some insight on the comp issue. Nice thread btw. I called one of the places selling these conversion kits and he couldn't even explain what would happen to compressor without air-springs installed. I immediately removed them from my short list.
    JMHO, but to be honest, I don't think it will make any difference whether the Autoride is on your truck or not if and when you decide to sell it. If you remove it, and the buyer asks, all you have to do is tell them how much it costs to replace any of the parts, especially the shocks, and he'll be glad you got rid of it. I know when I was selling my Suburban and even though it had an "LT Autoride" emblem on the side, no one even asked about it. However, the market where you are may be different than it is here. As far as the compressor goes, if you disconnect the shocks and use the resistors, the load leveling feature will not work because the BCM will not receive any signal from the SCM(Suspension Control Module) or the Position Sensors so it will not detect any shock movement and think the truck suspension is not moving. It's like sitting still. Tough call but, Good luck on whichever way you decide to go and if you have any questions, shoot me a PM or email.
    Last edited by Jacqson; 05-15-2012 at 12:33 AM.
    2011 Silverado 3500HD CCSB 4x4, S&B Intake w/ cold air scoop, Banks Monster Exhaust, Kennedy Lift Pumps, Nicktane Adapter, Cognito Leveling kit w/UCA's, Bilstein 5100's, Bushwacker OEM Flares, Nitto Terra's 295/70/18, Rigid Dually HD D2's, Edge Insight, Rare Parts HD Tie Rods.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •