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Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

This is a discussion on Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics) within the Technical / Maintenance forums, part of the General Discussion category; This subject has errors!! I had asserted in this thread that some oil is always by-passing the filter. It turns ...

  1. #1
    Registered User dcmorga's Avatar
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    Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)


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    This subject has errors!!

    I had asserted in this thread that some oil is always by-passing the filter. It turns out this is not always the case.

    Please see this thread for a new, better write-up:

    http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...es-w-pics.html

    I finally got tired of replacing my leaking oil cooler lines and after doing some research on these forums I decided I could live without them. This was done on a '95 Tahoe 5.7L 4X4. Your results may vary.

    First off, this can be down WITHOUT pulling the adapter off the block. I pulled mine because I wanted to verify the flow path of the oil. I was surprised to find that not all the oil goes through the filter nor does it all go to the cooler (unless one or the other was plugged). The flow actually splits as I tried to describe in the pictures below. I have read in other posts that the check valve should be removed when deleting your oil cooler lines, but I don't think that is necessary and in fact would allow your oil to drain back into the oil pan on engine shut-down requiring dry starts.

    Here is what you'll need:
    - Two 3/8" brass pipe plugs
    - Teflon tape
    - 1/2 quart of oil to replace the oil that you lose.
    - Oil drain pan to catch the oil

    Here are the basic steps...
    1) You may want to use a 15mm socket to loosen the engine support crossmember bar that comes down right in the way.
    2) You may want to remove your oil filter to make the job easier.
    3) Unbolt the the hose support near the front of the engine (13mm).
    4) Unthread the oil cooler lines from your radiator.
    5) Unclip the plastic clips holding the lines to your oil filter adapter and wiggle them out of their bases.
    6) Drain and discard the hoses.
    7) Remove the hose adapters from the oil filter housing.
    8) Plug the 3/8" holes.
    9) Flush out the radiator holes with brake clean or plug them somehow.











    If you want to keep the cooler in service but hate the OEM hoses, check out reply #13 in this post:
    http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...oler-line.html
    Last edited by dcmorga; 01-18-2010 at 08:31 AM.

  2. #2
    Resident Dick Quyonmob's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Well... The o-ring just blew for my filter adapter. Thank god you wrote this up, cus I had no idea what it looked like in there.

    I though my rear main seal was toast, but I think you just solved my issue by posting those pics!

  3. #3
    Big Daddy 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    .

    Wow, that sucks about the unfiltered oil! Thanks for the write up

    Is it worth bypassing the oil cooler lines on my DD/grocery getter? Isn't filtered oil better than the crappy cooler?

    .
    :-)

    '96 Suburban, 17x9 Helo's, 37" Toyo MT's, 14 bolt sf, 5.13 Yukon by Custom Differentials, Black Bear tune!



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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    he's not pybassing anything, all he is doing is getting rid of the lines that go to the rad. prolly had the famous oil cooler line leaks, and didnt wanna pay $$ for what gm or other stores charge

  5. #5
    S/C Z71
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    The oil is filtered already. No need to filter it twice. You should replace your lines with hydraulic lines.

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by S/C Z71
    The oil is filtered already. No need to filter it twice.
    If the pics and descriptions are correct, it looks like there is unfiltered oil entering the engine.

    Why do you say it is filtered?



    .
    :-)

    '96 Suburban, 17x9 Helo's, 37" Toyo MT's, 14 bolt sf, 5.13 Yukon by Custom Differentials, Black Bear tune!



  7. #7
    S/C Z71
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    It's filtered before or after it goes through the cooler but I'm not 100% it's before or after.

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    Registered User dcmorga's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    I stand by my original assertion that the oil that takes the path of the oil cooler does not get filtered. It totally by-passes the oil filter. If someone wants to take their own pictures or use mine from above to explain how I am mistaken, then that would be great. But from what I observed the oil has two paths, filtered or cooled, but not one after the other.

    And yes, IMHO I think it is okay to delete the cooler lines if you don't live where temperatures commonly exceed 90 F, don't do an extensive amount of towing, and you don't use your vehicle to plow snow.

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by Quyonmob
    Well... The o-ring just blew for my filter adapter. Thank god you wrote this up, cus I had no idea what it looked like in there.

    I though my rear main seal was toast, but I think you just solved my issue by posting those pics!

    Yes, what alot don't realize is the filter adapter bolts to the block and there is ANOTHER O-ring there. This ring over time, degrades from the heat, and you will think you have a rear main seal going out, but check this first. Drain the oil, remove the filter, undo cooler lines, and unbolt adapter...here you find the adapter seal ("square" O-ring).

    And one other thing, you probably won't be able to buy JUST this O-ring, and they will look at you cross-eyed at the parts counter if you ask for it....ask to see an oil pan gasket kit...that's where I find em!

    One might also think their cooler lines are leaking also, due to this (Hmmmm) I'd replace this first if you just find alot of oil around the filter. And I'd advise just doing it if you have alot of miles, and a little extra time during your next oil change.

    I'd never remove my cooler lines, Anything that takes heat away from the engine and oil, is a good thing...while it may not show up right away, you may be sorry in 10,000 miles. I don't think 10 or 20 degrees cooler climate would make me think otherwise...just my .02.
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    Registered User dcmorga's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by smblksrock
    And one other thing, you probably won't be able to buy JUST this O-ring, and they will look at you cross-eyed at the parts counter if you ask for it....ask to see an oil pan gasket kit...that's where I find em!
    I got my gasket kit from Carquest. The gal behind the counter didn't even have to look up the part number. It came in a little plastic bag with two styles of paper gaskets, one big o-ring, plus two small o-rings for the oil cooler lines.

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by dcmorga
    I stand by my original assertion that the oil that takes the path of the oil cooler does not get filtered. It totally by-passes the oil filter. If someone wants to take their own pictures or use mine from above to explain how I am mistaken, then that would be great. But from what I observed the oil has two paths, filtered or cooled, but not one after the other.

    And yes, IMHO I think it is okay to delete the cooler lines if you don't live where temperatures commonly exceed 90 F, don't do an extensive amount of towing, and you don't use your vehicle to plow snow.
    you are correct, but remember, even engines with no oil cooler has a bypass valve that bypasses the oil filter



    so what I did was remove the check valve in the middle of the filter, then there is no other way for oil to go butn through the filter, 60 psi cold w/5w30, 50 psi hot on the dyno, 30 psi or so hot idle
    Last edited by dave89iroc; 01-08-2009 at 05:54 PM.
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  12. #12
    S/C Z71
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Filtered.

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by S/C Z71
    You should throw your lines away and run good oil.
    Fixed that for you.


    Those lines are junk plain and simple. They all leak and always will leak. Some trucks (mine for example) never had the engine oil cooler in the first place. My engine is pushing 193,000 miles and still runs good, carries good oil pressure and I don't see one bit of good the oil cooler would have ever done. Don't run crap for oil in your engine and you will be fine. That predarkened Pennsylvania Crude (Penzoil) isn't fit to be used as waste heating oil let alone in an actual working engine. Use something good like Mobil, Castrol, or Valvoline and you will be fine. I run Mystic 15w 40 in mine and don't hesitate to pull with it on a 100 degree day.

    You can actually get the old style adapter from the pre 86 blocks that never had cooler lines to begin with and put it right in place of the cooler line adapter on the 2wds and probably on the 4wds as well but it would limit you to the big oil filter which may interfere with the front drive shaft.
    Last edited by oldred95; 12-31-2008 at 07:40 PM.
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  14. #14
    S/C Z71
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by oldred95
    Fixed that for you.
    Nice.

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    From your Pic.1, there is no path that oil can enter oil chamber from the engine, even there is rad marked arrow. Where is the hole?



    Quote Originally Posted by dcmorga
    I stand by my original assertion that the oil that takes the path of the oil cooler does not get filtered. It totally by-passes the oil filter. If someone wants to take their own pictures or use mine from above to explain how I am mistaken, then that would be great. But from what I observed the oil has two paths, filtered or cooled, but not one after the other.

    And yes, IMHO I think it is okay to delete the cooler lines if you don't live where temperatures commonly exceed 90 F, don't do an extensive amount of towing, and you don't use your vehicle to plow snow.

  16. #16
    I Hate You All, Equally.
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    nice work there son, now you've also started a good discussion thread. Glad to see people aren't succumbing to the OEM's way of vacuuming money from the loyal customers pockets.


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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Wow ..you did all this for two lines that total $53...???

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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by low4x4
    Wow ..you did all this for two lines that total $53...???
    I wasn't going to risk blowing my $5000 built engine to POS lines that always leak, and have more then once blown



    and all it cost to do this was the plugs(I had them around) and the gaskets(I also had them left from an old gasket set), so all it cost me was a few minutes
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    Registered User dave89iroc's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by JZ57_CN
    From your Pic.1, there is no path that oil can enter oil chamber from the engine, even there is rad marked arrow. Where is the hole?
    there is a passage cast into the unit under the bottom of the chamber, feeds the hole under the filter
    ASE Master Certified Technician

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    loves Mickie James oldred95's Avatar
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    Re: Removing leaking oil cooler lines for good (w/ pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by low4x4
    Wow ..you did all this for two lines that total $53...???
    Two lines that total 53 dollars that are nothing more then thin almost plastic like hose. If they used actual hose, like say transmission cooler hose they would be fine. That cheap plastic garden hose like crap they use anymore always leaks around the crimps and I wouldn't risk it myself.
    1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
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