I'm guessing you didn't mark the dist body-intake manifold relationship or rotor-dizzy body relationship before you started? Or set piston 1 to top dead center on the compression stroke before you started?
If not you'll need to first line up the line on the harmonic balancer with the groove on the front cover, making sure there's compression at cylinder number 1 (put your finger over the plug hole as a buddy turns the crank with a socket, you'll feel the compression).
Once piston 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, look at the dizzy. If I remember correctly (my memory is a little fuzzy here) there is a white dot and a recess on the bottom end of the dizzy - these need to be aligned. When this is done you'll see a mark on the dist body containing a number "8" - the center of the rotor should be ~42 degrees counterclockwise to the "8" such that when you drop the dizzy in place the rotor aligns closely to the number 8 on the dizzy body as the helical splines on the dizzy gear mesh with their partners on the camshaft gear.
This is not as easy as it sounds - you'll likely encounter a problem with the dizzy not seating all the way down - this is because the bottom of the dizzy shaft is not engaging the oil pump drive shaft. To fix this you'll need a long screwdriver to reach down the dizzy hole and rotate the oil pump drive shaft to line up with the dizzy shaft. Try seating the dizzy again - with patience and trial and error you should get it seated with the center of the rotor closely aligned to the "8" - rotate the body of the dizzy slightly if necessary to get it dead on. If it comes close but won't align, you are a gear tooth or more off - pull the dizzy out, adjust rotor position and try again. Don't forget the gasket!
Once this is done, tighten the hold down bolt carefully without moving the dizzy at all, reassemble everythign else and see if it will start. If not check your work, especially make sure piston 1 was on the compression and not exhaust stroke. If it starts you still need to take it to a shop with the appropriate scan tool to have cam retard set to +/- 2 degrees. Hope this helps.