Helpful towing hints for a 2001 1500 2wd barebones basic 4.3v6 truck??

[KHaus41369]

Hello to all...New member..New Chevy pickup owner...I recently picked up a 2001 chevy silverado 1500 2wd barebones 4.3v6 auto....I have towing questions and before you ask why buy this for towing ?? it only had 12,414 original miles and i got it for 6500.00 too good to pass up. Im only towing a 15 alum. fishing boat with is no problem dont even know the boat is on the truck. but I have a 2004 starcraft Cenntenial popup camper its bout 3200 lbs w/o the water tank full. Towing cap is around 5000lb I believe or am I wronng ?? My problem is it pulls the truck down low on the leaf springs and axles...i also get some swaying...and of course throttle respose is very sluggish. I have 245/70/16 grabber at2 on the truck I have installed a trailer brake controller also. Are there any type of load helping shocks or springs to help or would a higher rise trailer bar help ? would i need a set of those sway helpers i see for larger trailers help ? and anything simple performance wise help ? I have plans for a transmisson cooler and possibly an oil cooler Truck was way too nice shape and too good of deal to pass up Ill add a picture shortly

[Quyonmob]

Sounds like you need new shocks and the leaf pack replaced. Neither load should make that truck squat very much, as tongue weight should only be 10-15% of total towed weight.

You have a proper receiver hitch and are towing with your tongue/load as level as possible?

The V6 is fine for pulling both of those, but if you want some more grunt, you may want to look at changing gear ratios, some V6's came with 3.23s, which can be pretty sluggish.

[bowtieguy101]

Great combo, the 4.3 is a relaible little motor that makes decent power. I agree with everything from the above post. But there is 1 other option you might want to check on. Look at air shocks for the rear. I wouldnt use them to hold up 10k, but for a little inexpensive help to keep teh truck from squatting they are awesome. You can adjust teh pressure to help level the truck.

Sound like you got as great deal. With the gears in the rear i would not tow in OD with the camper as it will hunt for gears

[bowtieguy101]

here are theshocks I have. Still rides smooth like a 1/2 ton when empty, bump it up a little when hauling a load.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/mon_air.cfm

[KHaus41369]

You have a proper receiver hitch and are towing with your tongue/load as level as possible?


I have a Reese hitch 2 inch receiver the the ball tounge is a standard 2" drop but i have it flipped to raise the ball. With the camper connected it appears to be level to a slight drop but the truck like I said appears to come down about 2 to 3 inches. I dont know what rear end ratio is in it but at the lack up pickup up a slight grade i think it could be the 3.23 someone mentioned

[bowtieguy101]

With the 4.3 auto you more than likely have the 3:23. Check the RPO codes in the glovebox for GU5

[Jmac72]

weight wise you should be fine.Some of the popups are nose heavy.With 12k on the truck your springs and shocks should be fine.I would pick up a weight distributing hitch like this.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...&sa=X&ei=ic13T

This should lift up the tail of your truck and get rid of any sway.

[bowtieguy101]

I find the WD hitch only has an advantage when you start talking about heavier traielrs with more tongue weight. With such a light tongue weight it will tend to lift the rear of the truck over bumps and will feel real squirrley. Keep in mind we are talking about 4000Lb trailer here.

[Jmac72]

But it is only 2 wheels.Depending how it is setup,and how much stuff you put in there.they can be nose heavy.You don't have to run the bars super tight,they are adjustable.I use a set on my enclosed trailer.I don't need the help with the weight,but they keep the trailer from wiggling around.I notice it the most,when a big rig pass's me.It trys to suck the trailer over.

You can set them how ever you need them.Just count the links and go from there.

[bowtieguy101]

As I said great for heavy towing. not that great for light duty.

[KHaus41369]

would stepping up to the 3.73 gears be helpfull also in some more towing power ? or is there something better in rear end gearing? Truck is used for towing 3rd vehicle driving and "yes Dear" runs to Lowes Home Depot and Ikea. And I appricate all the help so far I have a list already to look into.

[Jmac72]

It would.But its a bit of work,and dollars.Plus your are not towing real heavy,so not sure it would be worth it.Plus you would loose some mpg's.

[Quyonmob]

Plus you would loose some mpg's.

Not always the case. Slightly higher rpm at speed will be true, but reduced load on the engine (gears multiply torque). Quite often MPG works out to be the same, sometimes it works out to be better.

[bowtieguy101]

Not always the case. Slightly higher rpm at speed will be true, but reduced load on the engine (gears multiply torque). Quite often MPG works out to be the same, sometimes it works out to be better.

Agreed.

[KHaus41369]

Hey guys I did some investigating found out that I believe I have a 3.08 rear end in the truck I found the window sticker build sheet in the paper work listed right on it as an option if thats the case I wont be towing much will I ? I think a gear change might be in order and If I make a gear change what should i go to within reason ? the 3.42 or the 3.73 ? remember its only the 4.3 V6

[TiredFarmer]

Look for the RPO code list inside glove box (on door) if you do have the special highway gearing 3.08 there will be a G91 code. Look at these codes for anything starting with "G" these will be your rear end codes. If you do have the 3.08 it would be better for towing to go to say 3.73 gears. Anything above that and you'll kill the V-6 trying to turn them empty.