next remove the rotor shield off the spindle (3 bolts) and unbolt and remove the swaybar endlinks. you can also remove the swaybar at this time if you want. it's held in by 4 bolts and two bushings. be careful if you're under it, it's heavy !
next seperate the tie rod end from the spindle. undo the pin and castle nut like we did on the rotor, and (if you are replacing the tie rod end, tap it out of the hole backwards., if you are keeping the tierod ends, then use a tie rod removal tool, shaped like a fork. we call them pickle forks for some reason...
now we need to get the spindle off. this is easy. IMPORTANT!! when you undo these two nuts, the front spring could blow out causing some serious injurys. so be careful! place a jack under the lower ball joint, and jack the assembly up till the spring compresses a little.

now undo the pin and castle nut on the lower ball joint jsut like you did on the rotor. undo the nut enough so that there is enough space for the balljoint to start to slide out, but get caught on the nut. lower the jack slightly to take the pressure off the spring, but leave it under the balljoint. take your BFH or sledge, and hit the spindle where the balljoint goes thru. the balljoint is gonna be really jammed in there, so it takes a few sharp blows. a balljoint seperator will also help here, availible at most auto parts stores, but i rarely use one. once the balljoint breaks free, you can remove the nut and lower the jack. once again, BE CAREFUL OF THE SPRING PRESSURE! push the lower controll arm down and remove the spring. next unbolt the upper balljoint from the spindle the same way, and remove the spindle.
1989 gmc sierra, 383 LT1 stroker, T56 , spec stage 3, eaton 4:10 posi, PST bushings,kp 6 link, conti's, the usual air stuff, some nice smooth imodium green sealer, some old 17's and BAM...a money pit!



