[Pyrite Z]

If the truck needs the knock outs taken out you can do it without removing the uppers.
I did mine with an air chisel.
take the nuts off the uca and you will see the knock outs they're pretty to remove you could probably do it with a hammer and chisel too.
the shops around here want to charge you like 80 bucks to do it. I would not recomend doing it unless the truck abosolutly needs them out.

btw I alligned my truck myself towards the beginning of this year and have never had or noticed any uneven tire wear. I drive @100 miles a day on it back and forth to work! the only diff is mine is bagged so I know what pressure to set it to for the long drive so as not to shred my tires.
I do not recomend doing the following unless you are going to take the truck to a shop to have it alligned immediatly!!
after I knocked out the plugs I made up a level to fit against the rim at the bead seat with the truck on the ground using an old 4 ft level I cut it down and used the part of the level that had the plumb vial and cut it so the plumb vial would be at the top part of the rig. I then attach it to the wheel using a bungee cord strapping it thru the wheel to hold it in place. oh yeah I cut a piece of alluminum angle and zip tied the level to it.
you must make sure the level is plumb to the left and right(looking at the wheel from the side of the truck) and centered on the wheel. after you have the level set up and plumbed you can adjust the upper control arms to be almost level you want a little neg camber were talkin very little.
now for the next part the toe in and toe out.
I set mine up almost perfect now I can't remember if I set mine with a little toe out or not but this method will help to get you truck close enough to get it to the shop. with the truck on the ground take and the wheels straight take a tape measure and measure the from the center of your right side tire tread to the center of the left side tire tread on the back of the front tires(towards the firewall). now write that number down. ok got that now do the same for the front side (towards the radiator) how close are the numbers?? they should be pretty close like with in a fraction of an inch.
OK if they're off a bunch you will need to work on that to do this you take the two numbers you just came up with and subtract the smaller number from the larger number this is how much the toe is out (this number doesn't really matter right now.). ok dont start freaking out now I'll try and get you thru this as painless as possible...lol
first off if the measurement was longer on the back side of the tire you will need to pull the front of the tires outward and vise versa if the measurement is shorter.
this step is to find out if your front wheels are centered first take the number you got from the front divide it by 2. now using your new number from the center of the right tire(the same center as mentioned earlier) make a mark somewhere like on the part of the tie rod linkage or you can use a 2x4 on its side on the ground any where as close to level as you can get. now that you have a reference mark to check the left out. measure from the center of the left tire to the mark. is this number the same? if so then the wheels are reasonably straight and you should be good to go. do the same for the back of the tires just for sh!ts and giggles.
now if the tires are out of whack you will need to crank the tierods in or out.
if the measurement in the front is smaller than the one on the back side of the tires they probably look like this but not to this extreme / \ you are going crank the tierods out till the measurements are real close just remember you have to count the number of revolutions that you turn the tierod cause you will have to turn the other side too!! ok lets say that the two numbers you came up with earlier are 51 inches in the front and 53 in the back so that gives us 2 inches of difference you are going to have to pull the fronts out 1 inch thats approx 1/2 inch for each side now the reason for only pulling the rears in 1/2 an inch is because as you move the rears in the fronts will be moving out the same increments.
so now the fun starts take the tierod connector(stoopid me I forgot the name) it's the tubular thingy between the inner and outer tierod loosen the nuts on it I almost forgot use some paint either touch up or model paint and paint a spot on the connector and the and the threads right against the connector just a small line horizontally on each end let the paint dry so you dont smear it.(for reference point zero) using channel lock pliers turn the connector in one direction one full rotation notice the paint marks are starting to show thread between the tierod and connector then you are turning in the right direction if the paint is going into the connector then stop and reverse the direction one full turn in the opposite direction this will put you back to point zero. Now turn the connector a few full rotations (make sure to count them)and check your measurement to the center mark. do this a few times to get you close to the 1/2 inch our ficticious number. when you get close stop and do the other side the same number of turns and check the center of the right tire to the center of left. check this against the measurement of the back side too you should be getting close to having the same measurement for front and back. when you get the number really close with in 1/8 of an inch or so then you should be good enough to get it to the shop.
sorry this is so long winded I just get carried away sometimes.......
if anybody has anything to add feel free and If I missed something please add it. just tryin to help out