Driver Door Panel Loose...after replacing ALL the clips!!

[mrZ71man]

I can't figure out what is wrong with my 95 Drivers side door panel...I replaced the door pins to fix the sag, replaced all the retaining clips, and every time I close the door the panel pulls out of the retaining clips. If I have the window down, the panel stays on a little better.

Any ideas?

[Koots]

I'd say you go to the hardware store and pick up a pack of foam tape. It's double sided so it will stick to the metal door and the panel. How thick it needs to be depends on how loose it is. but that should keep it in place and fix any kind of NVH issues you may have with it. Just a few well placed squares or strips in and along certain areas should cure your problem.

[mrZ71man]

I'd say you go to the hardware store and pick up a pack of foam tape. It's double sided so it will stick to the metal door and the panel. How thick it needs to be depends on how loose it is. but that should keep it in place and fix any kind of NVH issues you may have with it. Just a few well placed squares or strips in and along certain areas should cure your problem.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Maybe I should fix the driver power door lock while I'm at it so I don't have to pull the panel off again...

[Koots]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Maybe I should fix the driver power door lock while I'm at it so I don't have to pull the panel off again...

That's a good idea as well. but if you don't the foam tape is not hard to remove. We used it all the time at this one shop to fix rattling door panels and to weather seal truck caps (camper shells or whatever people call em LOL) if you need to you can double layer it as well. It'll hold the panel in place quite well because their is little flex or movement, but doesn't make it much more difficult to remove.

Whenever i pull off my door panels, i make sure i have extra clips. you'll just have to have extra tape. it works wonders for all interior panels too. especially those that may have warped a little over time, because it's plastic and is bound to change based on heat cycles and such.

[hornsfan10609]

Sick truck dude. I love the 350 as much as the next guy, but a 5.3 in that OBS is SICK. I love it.

[someotherguy]

Silly question but you put the screws back in the grab handle area right?

I saw that you replaced the bushings, but did it fix the door sag 100%, or is it still dragging a little? Close the door almost all the way until it starts to touch the striker, then look at the body line crease just under the window; compare to the cab behind it. It should be very, very close to even. If it's not, you still have sag - door needs to be adjusted (read: bent; there's no actual adjustment) or you have excess play in the top hinge where the pin goes through, no bushing in that spot.

Richard

[mrZ71man]

Sick truck dude. I love the 350 as much as the next guy, but a 5.3 in that OBS is SICK. I love it.

Thanks for the compliment!:rocking:

[mrZ71man]

Silly question but you put the screws back in the grab handle area right?

I saw that you replaced the bushings, but did it fix the door sag 100%, or is it still dragging a little? Close the door almost all the way until it starts to touch the striker, then look at the body line crease just under the window; compare to the cab behind it. It should be very, very close to even. If it's not, you still have sag - door needs to be adjusted (read: bent; there's no actual adjustment) or you have excess play in the top hinge where the pin goes through, no bushing in that spot.

Richard

I'll check the door sag. I make it a point not to lift myself up into the truck with the door, but sometimes when other people get in they climb up using the door. And I'm sure the screws are in the grab handle...but it wouldn't hurt to check.

Thanks for the help guys!

[mrZ71man]

So the door doesn't really match up with the body line...but it never really has since I owned the truck. The guy who owned it before me had the drivers side door replaced after an accident...it's just weird that it's now causing problems with the door panel. I'll try the double sided tape to see if that helps, but the panel definitely drags on the floor.

[farmerchris]

you can put a trolley jack under the back half of the door with a block of wood between the door and the jack.then gently lift the door until the door aligns with the body lines.usually you lift the a little past and let the door settle back in line.

[someotherguy]

Just be sure you get it "inside" of the lower door lip or you'll crush the outer edge lip of the door. There's a semi-flat portion of the door to put the block of wood against. Unfortunately it has a slight angle so the wood will want to keep squeezing out sideways.

You might have someone grab the door from the back while it's all the way open and lift up and down on it while you watch the top of the upper hinge pin. If the pin retainer is still in place it limits how much you can see, but you're watching for the hinge to move while the pin stays in place. The hole in the door portion of that hinge is the part I mentioned earlier that gets wear that cannot be fixed with a bushing, because the bushings sit in the body side of the upper hinge. Kind of a stupid design for the long haul.

If it's worn there you don't have a hell of a lot of options. Jack the door up and hold it in place while you hack it with the most minimal weld stitch you can put in there to close up the gap so it won't wobble, don't put too much in case you need to remove the door later for any reason - no room in there to work to grind your weld off. OR...replace the hinge, which sucks bigtime. And they're expensive.

Richard