View Full Version : Rebuilding a Salvage Crew Cab Dmax 4by


94383Z71
11-04-2007, 12:04 PM
Like the title says, my son and I are rebuilding a salvage crew cab Dmax. We've out grown the ext cab Z71, wanted to go with a crew. When this ones done, we'll go back thru the ext cab and fix-it up for my son.
Pics of what it looked like when I bought it.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63294275_o.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63294321_o.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63294767_o.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63294791_o.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63300530_o.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 12:05 PM
Here's some of the extras that came with it.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/63294371_o.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 12:08 PM
As soon as it arrived at the house, I bought a new cab corner from dealer, and tore it down to get it ready for the frame shop.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop005.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop006.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop009.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop010.jpg

And loaded up the extras for the frame guy.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Leavingfortheframeshop001.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 12:12 PM
Seven days and $800.00 later;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop001.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop003.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop005.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop011.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop010.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop009.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Homefromtheframeshop007.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 12:18 PM
Kind of out of order, but heres some of it up on the rack;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Attheframeshop003.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Attheframeshop002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/atkxr/dmax%20rebuild/Attheframeshop001.jpg

I'll post some more of my progress so far.

My reason for posting is advise, there are obviously some real talented body shop guys on this site. Please feel free to chime in.

I'm definately a shadetree body guy, and will be painting it in my shop. I know it won't be perfect, but plan to do the best job I can. Thanks in advance.

Beyond Static©
11-04-2007, 03:35 PM
everything looks good. Just needs a little mud work where the pillar and rocker is welded on, and it's ready for paint. Was the floor buckled any?

We just got a single cab '02 in hit the exact same, but it pushed the rocker in about 10", and bent the cab mounts. Looks like it's going to total, but not sure yet.

LOWZ71
11-04-2007, 04:02 PM
Good work on the project. That was a good find. That is nice that the parts you need came with it too. Keep us posted.

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:06 PM
everything looks good. Just needs a little mud work where the pillar and rocker is welded on, and it's ready for paint. Was the floor buckled any?

We just got a single cab '02 in hit the exact same, but it pushed the rocker in about 10", and bent the cab mounts. Looks like it's going to total, but not sure yet.

Yes the floor was buckled alittle, the frame shop just pulled it back out then welded the new rocker and "B" pillar outer in place.

While the truck was ay the frame shop, I worked on the bed. Sandblasted the surface rust, then coated with Chassis Saver.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CIMG2381.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CIMG2384.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CIMG2392.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed001.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed003.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed004.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed005.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed006.jpg

http://http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/sandblastingbed007.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:17 PM
That led to body work on the bed. Every corner has been run along something, and been creased. And the passenger side bed rail looks like it had the goose neck dropped on it.
Decieded to work as much as we could with it upside down.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork003.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork004.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork007.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork008.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork019.jpg

thecodeman
11-04-2007, 06:21 PM
Cool! I saw a rebuildable crew cab duramax on ebay today and thought about it, but then I only have time for one project at a time... :D

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:23 PM
While the mud was drying, I used a heat gun and pulled the plastic cap off of the tailgate. Welded up the holes, ground the weld down and filled it with fiberglass.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork023.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork025.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork029.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Bedbodywork028.jpg

The glass will be topped off with plastic filler.

Beyond Static©
11-04-2007, 06:28 PM
you forgot about shaving the tailgate handle......lol

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:29 PM
The pass side of the cab is ready for self-ectching primer, then primer surfacer and lots of block sanding.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Picture005.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Picture004.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Picture001.jpg

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:36 PM
Cool! I saw a rebuildable crew cab duramax on ebay today and thought about it, but then I only have time for one project at a time... :D

Thats where I found this, I never saw it in person before buying it. Wired the funds and found a company near me that hauled it from Madison WI, to Flint MI for $550.00.

phatfarmer2
11-04-2007, 06:38 PM
i cant belive that only cost $800 for the shop to put the used pieces on.. damn.. my work woudl have charged way more to do that..

if you dont mind me asking how much did you buy the truck for?

right now im rebuilding a wrecked sierra for myself. (you can check it out in the exterior forum)

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:41 PM
you forgot about shaving the tailgate handle......lol

No, I will be shaving it. I have a Bell Tech kit that I bought for an 88 model I had. Plan to see if it will work. If it won't, I'll order the correct one.

A little hard to keep all the parts in the right place at the right time on such a big project

94383Z71
11-04-2007, 06:50 PM
i cant belive that only cost $800 for the shop to put the used pieces on.. damn.. my work woudl have charged way more to do that..

if you dont mind me asking how much did you buy the truck for?

right now im rebuilding a wrecked sierra for myself. (you can check it out in the exterior forum)

The original qoute was $700, when I picked it up he was kind of reluctant to tell me about the additional $100. I offered to pay him more than that, but he was adamant about the price.
Keep in mind that we had removed anything that was in his way, and I was paying cash. Big plus.

The truck with the parts shown, plus a complete replacement leather interior from an 05 Silvy, was 11K. I could have it straight and all one color for approx. 14.5K.
But I'm building it as a keeper, not a seller So I'll have alot more it than that.

GMC HD 4x4
11-04-2007, 08:29 PM
looking good keep up the good work

phatfarmer2
11-04-2007, 09:39 PM
The original qoute was $700, when I picked it up he was kind of reluctant to tell me about the additional $100. I offered to pay him more than that, but he was adamant about the price.
Keep in mind that we had removed anything that was in his way, and I was paying cash. Big plus.

The truck with the parts shown, plus a complete replacement leather interior from an 05 Silvy, was 11K. I could have it straight and all one color for approx. 14.5K.
But I'm building it as a keeper, not a seller So I'll have alot more it than that.

good deal man. so far everythgin looks up to par. as long as the gaps are good and the doors open and close perfect, then the shop charging you $800 was a steal... theres alot of work involved in what was done, thats why i couldnt belibe it was only that much..

anyways cant wait to see what it looks like when done!

99gixxer
11-05-2007, 08:20 AM
good find & nice job. yeah $800 was a steal. keep up the good work.

94383Z71
11-10-2007, 07:01 PM
Well I'm Back to bore you with more of my rudamentary bodywork (if what I do can be called bodywork).

The bed rails both have dents in the them, the pass side looks like the goose neck was dropped on it more than once.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedRailDents01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedRailDents03.jpg

The following pics show my progress.

First the Linex would need to be removed;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Linexremoval01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Linexremoval02.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Linexremoval03.jpg

94383Z71
11-10-2007, 07:13 PM
Linex is off, time to grind the paint off (what was left, after Linex ground it up). And try out the Harbor Frieght stud welding gun.
I'll save the suspense, and tell you up front it didn't work for crap. The little circuit breaker would pop before it got hot enough to fully weld the stud on.
And the slide hammer that came with it was not much better. I should have known better. I thougth it work long enough for this job, but I was wrong.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/JunkStudWelding01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/GunWeldingStuds02.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/GunWeldingStuds01.jpg

94383Z71
11-10-2007, 07:21 PM
I fabbed up my own stud puller;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/HomemadeStudPuller01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/HomemadeStudPuller02.jpg

And rolled out the real STUD welder, 200amp Hobart garage sale find.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/GarageSaleMig01.jpg

Then the studs stayed put when being pulled on. The first pull;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds02.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds03.jpg

Second pull;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds04.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds05.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/MigWeldingStuds06.jpg

94383Z71
11-10-2007, 07:52 PM
Cut the studs off, ground down the welds, and preped it for mud;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/DonePullingStuds01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/DonePullingStuds02.jpg

First coat of glass roughed down;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/FirstCoatofFGlass01.jpg

After much spreding and sanding, I think its ready for primer;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/RSReadyforPrimer01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/RSReadyforPrimer02.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/LSReadyforPrimer01.jpg

Tomorrow I'll shoot some primer, and block it a little. See what shows up.

99-2door
11-10-2007, 08:13 PM
That's gonna be a sharp truck. You are gonna love the d-max. Looks like good work, keep it up.

FordeatinZ71
11-10-2007, 09:13 PM
bad @$$ project man! can't wait to see the finished project...really glad to be subscribed to this one!

LOWZ71
11-10-2007, 09:37 PM
So far its looking really good.

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 04:24 PM
Progress is much slower than I would like. Finding time to work in the garage is difficult.

I finally had to realize that the bed was as good as I good get it. I know its not perfect, or even close. But its as good as I can do.

Sprayed on the primer surfacer (2K), and no matter what I do it seems to be very dry. Takes forever to wet sand the orange peel out using 400 grit.

Using a new HVLP Devilbess two gun set. One with a 1.8 tip for primer, one with a 1.3 tip for topcoats. While spraying on the primer, material begins to accumulate on the fluid tip and spit out as blobs on the surface.

Have the regulator on the wall set at 80PSI, with the trigger ulled on the gun, have the pressure at the gun set at 30PSI. Have adjusted to fan and feed knobs quite a bit, but still get a real dry result. While spraying I'm keeping the gun approx. 6" from the panel, and am going so slow that I'm afraid of sagging it.

Even with all that, once it dries, its real rough with orange peel and takes forver to sand flat. Now I'm afraid of having the same issue with the finish gun.

Any suggestions, this is my first time using a HVLP.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/tn_Bedbodywork001.jpg

Beyond Static©
12-01-2007, 05:00 PM
what kind of primer are you using? I'd dry block the primer initally with 180, then work up to 320, and then 800 grit wet.

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 07:29 PM
The primer is made by Matrix, it's an activated product. Mixed at a 4:1 ratio. I'm not in the garage now, so I'll get the specific product tomorrow.

I'll try starting with 180 like you said. I've been starting with 400, then going to 800. All wet.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BlockingBed004.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BlockingBed003.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BlockingBed001.jpg

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 07:31 PM
Had a hard time fiquring the best way to mask off the Linex part of the bed. This is the hookey way we did it.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BlockingBed002.jpg

LOWZ71
12-01-2007, 07:34 PM
Had a hard time fiquring the best way to mask off the Linex part of the bed. This is the hookey way we did it.
Whatever works man, sometime you gotta use what you have. Project is looking awesome!

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 07:37 PM
Here's a few of my $300.00 eBay all steel cowl hood. It's not prefect, but will be good with alittle primer a spot putty. Two areas will be bent back up to match the fender better. No biggie.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CowlHood011.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CowlHood009.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CowlHood012.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CowlHood008.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/CowlHood010.jpg

Blue 04 Z71
12-01-2007, 08:29 PM
Wow i just started looking at this, and this project looks damn good. I can't wait to see the finished project!!

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 10:29 PM
what kind of primer are you using? I'd dry block the primer initally with 180, then work up to 320, and then 800 grit wet.

Thanks,

I was tried when I came in, and forgot to thank you for your reply.

I need all the help I can get.

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 10:38 PM
LOWZ71 and Blue 04 Z71, thanks for the positive words. Project is starting to drag, and the encouragement helps.

Not sure why, but it just seems impossible to make progress. But the bed is almost ready for paint, and thats a big step. This truck was worked quite a bit, so every panel on the bed has body work in it. Shaving the tailgate, so theres some work.

The cab is not as bad, hopefully it will go quicker than the bed. The pass side of the cab is roughed in, driver side rocker needs some help from where is was replaced.

It will get there though, just slower than I would like.

1989K1500
12-01-2007, 11:18 PM
Works looking really good so far man! Where are you at in MI, I saw something about a flint with the frame puller.

Is it a clean title or salvage? I bought my 01 as a repairable, its been a lot of work and I didnt have the much body damage, just the front clip mostly, I admire your ambition. lol.

94383Z71
12-01-2007, 11:59 PM
Works looking really good so far man! Where are you at in MI, I saw something about a flint with the frame puller.

Is it a clean title or salvage? I bought my 01 as a repairable, its been a lot of work and I didnt have the much body damage, just the front clip mostly, I admire your ambition. lol.

Thanks, I'm in Grand Blanc, south of Flint. Frame and cab work was done by Nels & Sons Frame and Alignment, in Davison.

The title is a salvage, and yea I wish my energy matched the ambition. Lack of talent / (bodywork) experience doesn't help.
It will be all good when its done.

LOWZ71
12-02-2007, 01:01 PM
Lack of talent, I'm not so sure about that. So far it is looking great if you've never done anything like this before. Keep your head up and it will look awesome when it is done.

freakout
12-02-2007, 07:55 PM
Looking good!

94383Z71
12-02-2007, 08:00 PM
Lack of talent, I'm not so sure about that. So far it is looking great if you've never done anything like this before. Keep your head up and it will look awesome when it is done.

Last overall I did was a V8 S-10, 10 years ago. It came out sooo bad that I gave up. I always knew what went wrong on the S-10. It was getting close to the time of the Woodward Dream Cruise, all my buddies were going, and I wasn't because mine wasn't painted. So the solution? Get some beer, loud music and cram a two week job into three days. And thats what it looked like when it was done. It was shiney, and all one color, but dimpled like a golf ball.

Never had any formal training or classes, just helped other guys when I could. And whenever I can, I read about what other people have done. It's something I always wanted to be able to do.

Thanks for the positive replies.

shakey
12-03-2007, 04:35 AM
Look like its coming out great!! Keep up the good work!

ollieman15
12-03-2007, 02:43 PM
Looks great nice body work.

94383Z71
12-03-2007, 08:47 PM
what kind of primer are you using? I'd dry block the primer initally with 180, then work up to 320, and then 800 grit wet.

Followed this advise, it worked out alot better. I was too afraid of cutting through and havig to reprime.

Box sides are done, need to finsh shaving the tailgate, and bed will be ready for color.

White_Stealth
12-03-2007, 09:20 PM
Your project has come along nicely since the last time I looked. I wish I would've looked sooner when you were having your hvlp gun issues as I have some advice to give you. What size airline and fittings are you using? On hvlp's to get the best atomization it's recommended to use 3/8" fittings instead of the standard 1/4". You get a lot more airflow this way because the gun isn't starving for air. You'd be surprised how much your sprayout will improve if you switch the fittings.

94383Z71
12-04-2007, 04:32 AM
Your project has come along nicely since the last time I looked. I wish I would've looked sooner when you were having your hvlp gun issues as I have some advice to give you. What size airline and fittings are you using? On hvlp's to get the best atomization it's recommended to use 3/8" fittings instead of the standard 1/4". You get a lot more airflow this way because the gun isn't starving for air. You'd be surprised how much your sprayout will improve if you switch the fittings.

Please don't hesitate to give advise, I'm new to HVLP. And was never real good with a siphon(sp?) feed gun. I went with the HVLP because I thougth that it would minimize excess overspray. I'm not shooting in a booth, so there will be alot of material in the air.

I am using the larger fittings already though. I was never a big fan of 1/4" fittings. I spent extra to have a compressor that will run alot of air (CFM) at a low rpm. And couldn't see choking it with small fittings.

I read the paperwork that came with the guns, and it made a big deal about not running too much pressure at the gun. So initially, I had the wall regulator set @ 30psi, and the gun regulator turned down to 10. With those settings, it was a globbed up mess.

I asked the supply house guy about it, and he said to have the wall regulator set to 80+psi, turn the gun reg down to 30(while the trigger is pulled), and this would result in 10psi@ the tip. With those settings, I had a hard time with the primer being dry. Lots of sanding.

But only the primer surfacer, the ecthing primer lays out pretty good. I even had a small sag in it. But please, advise. My concern is the the topcoat will be extremely dry also.

I have a hard time with the adjustment of the gun, it has three knobs, I know (1) is the size of the fan, (1) is the amount of material and the (1) on the bottom of the handle is the amount of air.
But if its the amount of air, then is it any different than the in-line regulator?

White_Stealth
12-04-2007, 05:47 AM
I always use a regulator on the end of the gun, and set it to 35psi (a little high but that's how I like to spray) My base/clear guns don't have an air adjustment so they are wide open, I always keep the material flow wide open also. With the fan adjustment I spray with about a 6" fan (that hits the car) and spray some material in the air untl I can see 2 distinct lines, one on top and one on bottom. Then I bring the air back down to where it's all even (which results in the 35 or so psi) and proceed to spray. Since you're already using the 3/8" fittings, all the more advice I can give you is do a couple spray out panels, like do the tailgate first and see how it turns out. You just gotta get a feel for the gun first and then you can test it's limits and see how far you can take it.

94383Z71
12-04-2007, 05:47 PM
I always use a regulator on the end of the gun, and set it to 35psi (a little high but that's how I like to spray)

Thats 35psi with the trigger pulled, right? I'll give that a try.

Didn't make much progress tonite, cheap ass eBay tailgate handle relocating kit. Metal is so thin, it's pathetic.

Pitched it in the trash, and found a Bell tech unit @ Summit. Should be here in a couple of days.

White_Stealth
12-04-2007, 07:04 PM
Yeah, 35 with the trigger pulled and no fluid coming out.

94383Z71
04-01-2008, 06:25 AM
Hi everyone, Just a qiuck note to let you know that we're done snowmobiling, and are back to work on the project. Most all of the bumping and filling is done, and we are down to, priming, spot putty and block sanding. I'll post some pics of the progress at some point.

LOWZ71
04-02-2008, 08:16 PM
Done riding for the year already? Its just the beginning of t-shirt weather.

wizkid102
04-06-2008, 07:51 PM
im liking your truck im new to this forum thing but i also rebuilt an 06 duramax ext cab i put a stepside bed on and a ss bumper cover on that truck i had to do a cab swap all your body work looks great so far

kev2809
04-21-2008, 08:31 AM
any updates? coming along very good btw

94383Z71
04-30-2008, 07:10 AM
It's almost ready for color, I sprayed the driver's side door jams and the door frame of the truck, this past Sunday. Re-hung the doors last night. Rear door refuses to close correctly, I had pulled the striker plates, prior to painting the jams.

I scribed thier locations before pulling them off, but should have tapped over the scribed areas. I used some high build primer in that area, and lost the scribed line. I'll have to fiddle with it some more.

I took some pics before reinstalling the doors, I'll post them up later tonight.

Drivers side rocker gave me fits, I bet I ground the filler out and redid it no lesss than (4) times. Thats one of the reasons I haven't been updating this post, feel pretty dumb not being able to sort that one out. The frustrating part is it's in an area that 99% of the people will never see.

Oh well its straight now, moving on to chasing the small little details, here and there.

Thanks for asking for updates, getting kind of lonely out here in cyber-space.

badger79
04-30-2008, 05:38 PM
hey thats awesome man good job but what r the miles on it?

94383Z71
04-30-2008, 05:42 PM
hey thats awesome man good job but what r the miles on it?
Its a high milage truck, 219,000. Milage doesn't scare me too much, my 94 had 175,000 on it, when I put the stroker motor in it. My wife's Escalade has 180,000, on the original drive train.

94383Z71
04-30-2008, 05:55 PM
Here's a few pics of the jams, not perfect, but it'll do.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams001.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams002.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams003.jpg

94383Z71
04-30-2008, 06:03 PM
"B" Pillar before
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Homefromtheframeshop007.jpg

After
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams005.jpg

Rest of door frame
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams004.jpg

Doors back on, the rear one won't close correctly,
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams009.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/doorjams007.jpg

Justin_Inc
04-30-2008, 07:44 PM
looks good so far! now git-r-dun!

kiddcarbuff
05-06-2008, 08:36 AM
looks good man, what amterial you shooting with?

94383Z71
05-13-2008, 11:53 AM
looks good man, what amterial you shooting with?


Primers, sealers and paint are all Matrix. Can be more specific if you are curious. It's the first time I've used these products, and am real happy so far.

94383Z71
05-14-2008, 07:14 AM
I have a question for some of the painters. On the areas that have been in primer for a while, I need to resand those areas before painting them, correct? I blocked the body work / primer surfaced areas out, down to 800 grit. Those areas have been waiting for paint, sitting in the garage.

Is it OK to just go over those areas with a red Scotchbrite pad, then wipe down with DX300, and them tack cloth and shoot them?

Areas that do not have body work done to them, have been blocked flat, down to 800 grit also (orange peel removal). Scotchbrite those areas also?

I believe the red scotchbrites are like 600 grit, which seems counter productive, I just can't see wetsanding with 800 again just to get ready for paint. They've been done once, and have just been sitting, nothing has left the garage.

I'm using the Matrix brand primers, mostly the 2K primer filler.

Thanks in advance.

99gixxer
05-14-2008, 09:56 PM
id wetsand them again. im not sure why you use 800 grit. that doesnt seem like very good adhesion. i wetsand clear with 800 before i reclear, thats too fine for primer or sealer. wetsand it again, this time with 400 or atleasttt 600 grit & you'll be good to go.

94383Z71
05-15-2008, 04:36 AM
id wetsand them again. im not sure why you use 800 grit. that doesnt seem like very good adhesion. i wetsand clear with 800 before i reclear, thats too fine for primer or sealer. wetsand it again, this time with 400 or atleasttt 600 grit & you'll be good to go.

The 800 was a suggesstion from another friend who paints on the side. I was finish blocking with 400, he said it took more paint to fill 400 scratches, and that I sshould at least be doing 600, preferably 800. I was thinking that was alittle too fine. I'll go back over it all with 600, Thanks.

kiddcarbuff
05-16-2008, 11:43 AM
yeah you should be good with the 600 grit for what you are trying to accomplish

94383Z71
05-16-2008, 06:58 PM
Well I finally got to spray a little color last night, I painted both box sides (cleared only one, more on that later) and the tailgate. Here a few pics prior to wetsanding and wheeling.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1004.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1011.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1012.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1010.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1008.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1007.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1009.jpg

94383Z71
05-16-2008, 07:03 PM
This is what the top of that bed rail used to look like;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Linexremoval04.jpg
And that pic doesn't really do justice to how bad it was banged in.

94383Z71
05-16-2008, 07:10 PM
Now for the part about "only clearing one of the box sides". If you look closely at the following pics, you can see the dreaded "fish eyes";
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1006.jpg
Not sure why it happened, used the same exact prep routine for all three of the panels, and only the drivers side box side started blinking at me.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround1005.jpg
I'll reblock it with 600 and start over, the Smoothy I had on hand, was not for catalized paint, I'll have to pick up some Smoothy 2, before I respray and clear.
Kind of a bummer, but I made alittle progress anyways.

MC
05-16-2008, 08:31 PM
It's coming along nice, man.

99gixxer
05-18-2008, 11:06 AM
looks good, hope you get that other side as good. stuff like that happens, no big deal, fix it & your good to go.

Justin_Inc
05-18-2008, 11:13 PM
'fish eyes' (also known as solvent pop) are caused by one of two things. Poor panel prep, or well solvent pop meaning ether too heavy of a coat, or not enough flash time between

White_Stealth
05-19-2008, 12:27 AM
Fisheyes aren't solvent pop. They are caused by airline/panel contamination. You can't solvent pop base (at least I never have, and I spray one coat, nib sand it, followed by two wet coats back to back and have never had trouble. Usually fisheyes in the base mean somethings on the panel. There are also craters which look like fisheyes, but actually have little specs in the center where "eye" is where the paint/clear has pulled away from it.

94383Z71
05-19-2008, 06:12 AM
'fish eyes' (also known as solvent pop) are caused by one of two things. Poor panel prep, or well solvent pop meaning ether too heavy of a coat, or not enough flash time between

I'm not sure of the correct terminoligy(sp?), but I prepped all three panels the same way, wash with soapy water (dishsoap to remove wax and grease), then use DX330(wax and grease remover) in a spray bottle, wet the panel with it, then wipe with clean cloth, repeat until cloth is clean after wiping. Then go over with a tack cloth, and shoot. The only one that had a problem was the drivers side of the bed.
I spoke with the owner of the supply place where I buy my materials, he said it was not fish eye that I saw, but that I was appling the base coat to "wet", he said guys that are used to spraying lacquers and enamels, tend to apply the base coat to wet, the base should be medium, not too dry, not too wet.
I think this is where I screwed up, I'll reshoot the bedside Tuesday evening, see how it goes.

94383Z71
05-21-2008, 07:22 PM
Well the painting drama continues, I prepped everything again, and tried to apply a first coat tat was med wet. As it tacked off, I noticed some areas, where the feather edge from sanding through the last coat of clear, was lifting up.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2005.jpg

I debated on what to do next, and decided, what the hell. I went ahead with the other coats of base, then cleared it. Those areas disappeared.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2013.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2016.jpg

At least under the garage lights, I can't see them anymore. My one buddy thats paints, swears, that out in the daylight, they will still show-up. I hope not, but I'm going to hit it 2000 and wheel it. And hope for the best.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2017.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintround2018.jpg

White_Stealth
05-21-2008, 09:44 PM
Since it's black you most likely won't see them outside. Just give it a few days before you buff it so the scratches can come to the surface and you can get rid of them completely.

Otherwise, looks good, and it's finally progressing.

94383Z71
05-23-2008, 06:29 PM
Bed's done
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished003.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished004.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished005.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BedPaintfinished006.jpg

pimprider
05-23-2008, 06:56 PM
while your in the painting mood you should tint the tail light

White_Stealth
05-24-2008, 08:06 AM
while your in the painting mood you should tint the tail light

agreed.



You have taken your time and it really shows. Body work looks awesome. Now hurry up and finish that cab.

poopskidz
05-24-2008, 12:05 PM
looks really nice i need to learn how to do that stuff

MC
05-24-2008, 12:31 PM
Amazing work, man...

94383Z71
05-24-2008, 03:48 PM
agreed.



You have taken your time and it really shows. Body work looks awesome. Now hurry up and finish that cab.


Thanks everyone, for the kind words, especially White_Stealth, it means alot coming from someone with your talents. Working on finish blocking the cab(with 600), I have a couple of small issues (door dings)to deal with on it, nothing big left.

I will have two more paint sessions, one for the cab, and another for the hood, lower bumper cover and plastic stuff.

How does tinting the tailights work?, wetsand with 800, light coat of base, then clear?

Rondog
05-24-2008, 04:32 PM
Just came across this build, looks amazing what you've done, box looks awesome, nice finish on that. So are you just spraying outside in open air, or in a shop or what? I'm thinking about doing bodywork and painting my old '91 sierra too, we got a "paintbooth" in our shop, plastic walls we can let down and fans in the walls. Or it's just gonna happen outside when there's no wind.

About smoking your taillights, mix some black basecoat with clearcoat in your gun, spray that on the taillight, add coats untill your happy with the darkness, then a couple clearcoats and you're done. Gonna do mine too on my 2003

94383Z71
05-24-2008, 07:11 PM
Just came across this build, looks amazing what you've done, box looks awesome, nice finish on that. So are you just spraying outside in open air, or in a shop or what?

About smoking your taillights, mix some black basecoat with clearcoat in your gun, spray that on the taillight, add coats untill your happy with the darkness, then a couple clearcoats and you're done. Gonna do mine too on my 2003

I have a garage/shop in the back that I work in, no paint booth. I hang plastic sheating, from Home Depot, over most everything that I don't want overspray to settle on. Then I put a box fan in the window(blowing out), seal it in as best I can, wet the floor down with a hose to keep the dust down. I have a back room addition that housing that the compressor, so its not kicking on and stirring up dust.

If you saw the finish in person, you can see some dirt specks in it, I wet sanded them with 2000 before wheeling it out.

Thanks for the advise about shading the tail lights.

kev2809
05-25-2008, 09:31 AM
great work man, its coming along pretty good. so out in the light did those "areas" you had problems with show up?

Chevyman247
05-25-2008, 10:34 AM
subscribed!

94383Z71
05-25-2008, 06:38 PM
great work man, its coming along pretty good. so out in the light did those "areas" you had problems with show up?

I can't see them, and I keep looking real close.

WildChevys
05-25-2008, 10:25 PM
you have done an absolutely amazing job and have so much to be proud of here!

94383Z71
06-03-2008, 01:09 PM
I hit the garage @ 8:30am yesterday, sprayed the last coat of clear @ 11:30pm. But the cab is all one color. I plan to do the hood, lower bumper cover and fender flares in one last paint session. Two issues with the cab;
1. Two small dings in the cab corner that was replaced, not sure how I missed them, but their there.
2. When peeling the masking tape off today, I accidentally peeled some paint off of the rocker, it went down to the previous coat of clear. Not sure what to do about it, when the camera battery finishes charging, I'll get some pics of it.
Till then, here's what I took before the battery died;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab003.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab004.jpg
I'll have to decide what to do about the rocker, then break out the 2000 grit.

MC
06-03-2008, 01:26 PM
Shiny! Looks great as usual.

94383Z71
06-03-2008, 03:07 PM
Masking off, outside garage;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab007.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab008.jpg

Now for where it peeled, not real sure what to do here. I guess I'll have to mask it off, wet-sand the rocker with 800 and re-clear the whole rocker. I don't know if it's possible to spot just that area in, or not.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab006.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/paintoncab005.jpg

Here's a link to the products I'm using, first the clear
http://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tech_sheets/Clearcoats/ms-42%20tech%20sheet.pdf

Then the base;
http://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tech_sheets/Paint/MPB.pdf

Crazed179
06-06-2008, 04:55 PM
wow.. hey where it peeled is that metal or primer underneath? primer needs somewhere around 180 for it to stick good. I'm sanding mine tomorrow with 800 before I paint it but I personally think its too fine.. guess I'll figure it out tomorrow.

but dude... after seeing my bed in primer for so long..to see that black on yours made my heart skip a beat. I'm too excited to sit here after seeing that. I can't wait man...that bed came out awesome though.

and don't be so hard on yourself about the body work and all..I mean it looks damn good, I still can't get over that bed. and I'm spraying my brake lights with the bed. screw 'em, if I can't see light coming through good, then I need to get some anyways.. cheap things trap moisture like crazy. pics up tomorrow of the bed. love the progress man keep it up

F4MOU$
06-06-2008, 05:05 PM
simply amazing. the whole thing. awesome.

94383Z71
06-06-2008, 05:30 PM
wow.. hey where it peeled is that metal or primer underneath? primer needs somewhere around 180 for it to stick good.

Believe it or not, what your seeing under there is the previous clearcoat, wetsanded with 600. I was told 800 was too fine to provide proper adhesion. What your seeing on my bed is 600grit, base, clear, 2000grit, med compuond with a wool wheel, glaze with foam wheel.

Thanks for the supportive comments, its coming along.

DarkCharisma
06-06-2008, 06:17 PM
All I have to say is, wow. It looks GREAT. I want to re-paint my truck so bad. :(

Bad Ass Z71
06-10-2008, 09:59 AM
Awesome build to be following. Dunno why you're so hard, on yourself, about the bodywork though. Its looking really good.

94383Z71
06-11-2008, 08:07 AM
Awesome build to be following. Dunno why you're so hard, on yourself, about the bodywork though. Its looking really good.

Thanks for the compliments.

As far as being hard on myself, it comes from things like what I realized last night. I ran out of the 2000 grit paper, that I'm using before wheeling out. I went to a supply house that I found that was closer to my house. I tell the guy I need some 2000 grit wet/dry paper. He comes back with the ten sheets I asked for, it's from a different manufacturer than the previous stuff, and it's a different color, but hey it's 2000 grit.

I go home, finish wetsanding the cab. Right away I'm impressed with the new stuff, it cuts faster lasts longer etc. Then I break out the wheel, wool bonnet, medium cut compound. I start wheeling in the same sequence that I sanded in, left front fender first. I work over to the pass door, and notice some sand scratches not wheeling out. Well I must not have finished the prepaint blocking well enough.

Then I get to the pass rear door, it looks like crap after wheeling, sand scratches everywhere. I soon realizze that this was the first panel that I used the new paper on, I jump to the next panel, same thing, looks like ****.

I do some research on the paper I bought, my original paper was 3m imperial(sp?). The new stuff is Rynowet and instead of saying 2000 on it, it say's P2000. Well after my wife does the internet research, there is a conversion chart for the "P" paper to the "old" style. It seems that a P2000, is really like a 1000 grit in a 3m rateing. So now I've sanded the cab in 1000 grit, I have to go back over it with 2000. Will I cut through the clear? Thats the question that kept me up all night, last night.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper

Live and learn, school of hard knocks.

blh
06-11-2008, 12:43 PM
You are doing a fantastic job. It's guy like you who have the balls to undertake a job like that that inspire guys like me to say Hey I can try it too.

Chevyman247
06-11-2008, 12:48 PM
Dont let this get you down! You will make it. Everything that can break, can be fixed.

Beyond Static©
06-11-2008, 02:01 PM
As Will I cut through the clear? Thats the question that kept me up all night, last night.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper

Live and learn, school of hard knocks.

Only one way to find out.....lol. You shouldn't remove much material going from 1000 to 2000. Start down low on a panel, and test it out first. Just be careful on your edges.

Crazed179
06-11-2008, 07:41 PM
well hey, I get to repaint the whole left side of my bed if that makes you feel any better, all cause of one demonic run. there was solvent pop all in it...had to sand down to the base coat for it to finally get out, now I gotta prime it and spray it again!

how many coats of clear did you put? I think 3/4 coats and you'll be alright. I put 4-5ish on mine in order to block it out with 1500, 2000, then finish with 3 and buff. I think I might try that later down the road though cause I'm more concerned with the cab..

we'll be adding two to the unofficial black thread soon!

silve-rod-o
06-11-2008, 09:02 PM
are you a body man because the truck looks f-ing perfect. love how the tail gate came out that is my biggest pet-peeve seeing where the handle was. your truck looks great

94383Z71
06-12-2008, 05:34 AM
are you a body man because the truck looks f-ing perfect. love how the tail gate came out that is my biggest pet-peeve seeing where the handle was. your truck looks great
Thanks for the compliment

"how many coats of clear did you put? I think 3/4 coats and you'll be alright. I put 4-5ish on mine in order to block it out with 1500, 2000, then finish with 3 and buff. I think I might try that later down the road though cause I'm more concerned with the cab.." I put three coats of clear on, I really think I'll be ok, I tend to overanyalize.

GMC HD 4x4
06-12-2008, 12:20 PM
wow..... truck is looking good nice job!

jlee003
06-12-2008, 02:18 PM
looks awesome man. love to see that dmax saved

Crazed179
06-12-2008, 03:18 PM
I put three coats of clear on, I really think I'll be ok, I tend to overanyalize.

I do the same thing, but it pays off in the end..and if not at least it makes you feel good lol

94383Z71
06-13-2008, 04:56 AM
Well, I'm happy to say, I went over the affected panels with the correct sand paper, then wheeled with the medium cutting compound, and it looks like I dodged the bullet.

I will hopefully finish wheel, with the glaze tonite and post some pics.

jimhrabe
06-13-2008, 10:29 AM
Looking good! nice project

joshj928
06-13-2008, 08:02 PM
pics ASAP!

94383Z71
06-15-2008, 06:22 AM
pics ASAP!

Here's a few of the cab, after I finished wet sanding and wheeling;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Cabpaintfinished001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Cabpaintfinished002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Cabpaintfinished003.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Cabpaintfinished004.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/Cabpaintfinished005.jpg

I've pulled the back bumper off, sand blasted the chrome, and primered it, as well as the oem fender flares. I have some smoothing to do to them. Them paint them, along with lower bumper cover, grill and hood.

Then I can put it back together.

Dubyagee
06-15-2008, 06:59 AM
It takes balls to do body and paint on a black truck with little experience. Turned out great. Cant wait to see it completed.

Crazed179
06-15-2008, 09:20 AM
sand blasted the chrome...what comes of that? what lies underneath? I want to re-do my front bumper and I was wondering if it'd take chips better without having that shiny chrome peeking out of your paint. or is it just metal under there and I'd still see the chips? sorry for all the questions

oh and looks freakin good btw.. can't wait to do mine

MC
06-15-2008, 12:09 PM
Very nice.

silverado82
06-15-2008, 12:12 PM
Looks Awesome

94383Z71
06-15-2008, 08:24 PM
sand blasted the chrome...what comes of that? what lies underneath?

Sandblasting it just roughs the chrome up, so that the primer will adhere to it. My rear bumper had two dents in it. Instead of replacing it, I decided to paint it black, to match the truck.

After blasting it, I coated it with 2K primer, then filled the dents with filler. I have a small amout of sanding to do, one more coat of primer, than it should be ready for color.

There's steel under the chrome, just heavier gauge than the body panels. Not sure if this is the way everyone does it, it's just how I was shown, years ago.

joshj928
06-18-2008, 12:15 AM
You gunna do new tire and/or rims?

94383Z71
06-18-2008, 11:08 AM
You gunna do new tire and/or rims?

Chrome H2's with 285/70/17. Reusing the GMC center caps, I'll post some pics.

Crazed179
06-18-2008, 03:46 PM
oh.. well I'm just gonna try to sand and paint..if yours works out better maybe I'll do that next time..I'm sure there will be a next time. pics!

F4MOU$
06-18-2008, 04:04 PM
this is going to be one awesome truck. n I bet them H2 Wheels will look killer on there as well man.

94383Z71
06-20-2008, 08:36 PM
We through the box back on, we are leaving for a weeks vacation, and I didn't want to leave the box outside of the garage. Its just temperary, but we took some pics anyway. My son spends alot of time looking at magazines, he took the pics, I think he was shooting a center fold.

It's getting closer.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BoxTF006.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BoxTF008.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BoxTF010.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/BoxTF011.jpg

Chevyman247
06-20-2008, 08:50 PM
A true work of art.

Man, you did a very awesome job, congraulations!

MC
06-20-2008, 08:52 PM
Very cool. I like those wheels.

94383Z71
06-20-2008, 09:24 PM
A true work of art.

Man, you did a very awesome job, congraulations!

Thanks, it's taking awhile, but I'm getting excited.

94383Z71
06-20-2008, 09:27 PM
I like those wheels.

$250.00 "buy it now" on eBay, $75.00 shipping. Tires were around $800.00 @ Discount. My original center caps.

MC
06-20-2008, 10:13 PM
$250.00 "buy it now" on eBay, $75.00 shipping. Tires were around $800.00 @ Discount. My original center caps.

Not to shabby...

JS99Z71
06-29-2008, 09:34 PM
94383Z71 truck looks awesome. Do you do any side jobs?

InestChevys2
06-29-2008, 09:49 PM
So your going to have a badass truck, whats the bill on it? Or is it worth the money put in compared to buying one similar

94383Z71
06-30-2008, 09:24 AM
94383Z71 truck looks awesome. Do you do any side jobs?

Thanks, but no, I do not do side jobs. It takes me too long to get my own stuff done!!!!!

94383Z71
06-30-2008, 09:34 AM
So your going to have a badass truck, whats the bill on it? Or is it worth the money put in compared to buying one similar

Thats a tough question to answer, looking at the Dmax market, now, versus when I started this truck. I would say now, from a financial view point, I could buy something for not much more than what I have invested in this. It probably wouldn't look this good, or have many extras, but it would have a clear title.

If you look at how the market was when I started, I am way in the black. No way could I have bought something comparable, for close to the same money.

From a personal stand point, I can't put a value on the experience. I have restored my faith in my ability to do body and paint work, and have taught my son tons of things along the way. We have been on a mission trip with our church for the past week, working on homes(Katrina damage) in Moss Point Miss. At one point my son was kneeling in front of a truck parked next to curb, in front of the house we were working on. He had one of the other voluteer boys with him. When they came back, I asked what they were doing, he said he was showing the other boy waht "orange peel" was, and explaining how to sand it out flat. He just turned 15.

InestChevys2
06-30-2008, 08:14 PM
Cool man, There is alot of extras, brand new paint and that truck, taken care of well will run forever.

For as the experience and teaching people that is priceless and way worth it, I understand that part completely. Truck is badass as well with the little things added makes it stand out a little bit more. Later

2002on22s
07-08-2008, 03:08 PM
Any updates on this thing......?

94383Z71
07-09-2008, 09:36 AM
Sunday we painted the hood, fender flares, and the rear bumper. Had some problems with the hood, repainted it last night, will wet sand and wheel it tonite.

Had to order the tape to reinstall the fender flares. Only have the front, lower bumper cover, front bumper and grill to paint. Then, it's all reassembly.

Will try to get some more pics up, thanks for the interest.

2002on22s
07-09-2008, 10:31 AM
Sunday we painted the hood, fender flares, and the rear bumper. Had some problems with the hood, repainted it last night, will wet sand and wheel it tonite.

Had to order the tape to reinstall the fender flares. Only have the front, lower bumper cover, front bumper and grill to paint. Then, it's all reassembly.

Will try to get some more pics up, thanks for the interest.


Yes - Post some more pics please....I'm considering this same option now myself.

joshj928
07-09-2008, 11:07 AM
must see pics!

Blue 04 Z71
07-09-2008, 11:29 AM
Are you going to throw some 03+ tails on it? That would look sick. Smoke em too.:rocking: Nice project its comming along very nicely.

98[GMC]z71
07-09-2008, 02:23 PM
exilent job on the truck man! cannot wait to see the finished product

94383Z71
07-10-2008, 06:51 AM
Are you going to throw some 03+ tails on it? That would look sick. Smoke em too.:rocking: Nice project its comming along very nicely.

Thanks for all the compliments guys.

I do plan on smoking the tails, and will go with later style, if I find a good deal. But I plan to wait until I have truck inspected. I have to complete the thing, then take to a special law enforcement officer for him to inspect, verify it's built safe, and not with stolen parts. Then he issue the papers I need to get a new title, then plates. I don't want any heart burn from him about smoked tailights or anything like that.

I will even wait to tint the windows until after I clear him. You know how P.O.'s can be. Some are cool, others have let that power go to their head.

I'll try and get more pics up tonite.

Crazed179
07-10-2008, 03:39 PM
I don't have a good excuse for why I'm not done. can't wait to see yours done though, maybe that'll speed me up a little. looking good man

94383Z71
07-10-2008, 07:14 PM
Sorry no pics tonite, by the time we finished wet sanding and wheeling the hood, it was dark out. I'll get some up tomorrow. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it, and besides, I've painted it twice, I'm NOT doing it again.

Keep your chin up crazed179, we both be done soon. That black truck you've been wanting is just around the corner.:drool: :drool:

94383Z71
07-11-2008, 07:56 PM
Well I promised pics, not alot to show, hood is on. Worked on putting door handles back on, lights in, and flares on. Heres a few pics. I wet sanded to flares in preparation to wheel them. Thats why they look that way. I will wheel them when they are all on.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/reassembly001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/reassembly002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/reassembly003.jpg

IH8FORD
07-12-2008, 07:06 PM
that thing is freaking awesome man.

vegaman04
07-12-2008, 08:11 PM
That truck is tits!

jimhrabe
07-13-2008, 06:06 PM
Wow! coming together nicely

GMCYukalade
07-13-2008, 08:45 PM
That truck looks great, you really have done a great job - and i think its awesome that your son works with you the way he does as well! - That the way i was/am with my father working on vehicles, he and I recently did my chevelle in a dark blue...

You said Flint Mich? Right? - My pastor mentioned going there before.. and we have a guy and his family in our church from there that my pastor met while he was there.. Interesting!

94383Z71
07-21-2008, 05:08 PM
I haven't posted these up yet, because I don't want white stealth to get P.O.ed. Then it came to me, we just won't tell him, you guy's promise to keep quiet right? It will be our little secret, what white stealth don't know, won't hurt. Right?
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront004.jpg

This last one, is just a shot of where I relived the lower bumper cover, for the larger tires.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront005.jpg

Seriously stealth, you know imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

IH8FORD
07-21-2008, 05:58 PM
that looks so damn good man now go buff those fender flares already

vegaman04
07-21-2008, 05:58 PM
Those front lights are screaming to be cleared

DroppedAsAChild
07-21-2008, 06:00 PM
Looks Badass man cant wait till its all final and complete. Now buff those flares.

fortplainman
07-21-2008, 06:20 PM
I bet the bumper that is flush with the tailgate would look really nice on that since you shaved the tailgate handle. Just my .02 but that truck looks amazing and even better since you have done all that work to revive another great DMAX!

AndyJ_o
07-21-2008, 06:32 PM
great job so far on bring that Dmax back to life. any plans for performance after the body work is done?

slewis
07-21-2008, 06:38 PM
Wow, that looks awesome. Now just smoke all the lights and it will be perfect.

MC
07-21-2008, 06:55 PM
Pure tits.

White_Stealth
07-21-2008, 09:00 PM
I haven't posted these up yet, because I don't want white stealth to get P.O.ed. Then it came to me, we just won't tell him, you guy's promise to keep quiet right? It will be our little secret, what white stealth don't know, won't hurt. Right?...

Seriously stealth, you know imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

:lol:

All I got to say is DAMN I love the front end on that thing


You did an awesome job bringing it back to life.

It's my trucks evil twin, I like it. :rocking:

94383Z71
07-22-2008, 03:38 AM
"that looks so damn good man now go buff those fender flares already"
Thank you very much. I knew I would need to wetsand and wheel some of the front end stuff, so I waited. Home garage painting, will always have dirt specs and bug legs in it.

"Those front lights are screaming to be cleared"
I have new projection halos coming, headlights, turn signals and fogs.

"Looks Badass man cant wait till its all final and complete. Now buff those flares."
Thanks and see above.

"I bet the bumper that is flush with the tailgate would look really nice on that since you shaved the tailgate handle. Just my .02 but that truck looks amazing and even better since you have done all that work to revive another great DMAX!"
Thanks.

"great job so far on bring that Dmax back to life. any plans for performance after the body work is done?"
Thanks, I have a Diablo sport programer, and plan on a 4" exhaust.

"Wow, that looks awesome. Now just smoke all the lights and it will be perfect."
Thanks, plan is to smoke and tint after state inspection, for new title.

"Pure tits."
Thanks

"It's my trucks evil twin, I like it."

I never looked at it that way, and I must say its an honor for you to say that. Maybe someday they will be parked next to each other at some get together. Thanks Stealth.

02Desperado
07-22-2008, 09:54 PM
Man I just read this whole thread and I have to say you did a fantastic job!

Keep posting pics!

badger79
07-23-2008, 01:09 PM
what an awesome job man i am impressed and u just gave me so much insperation to work on my project truck was not really sure if i wanted to do my self but i think im going to try. it just shows what can be accomplished with some time and hard work. u dont really need to be an expert u need to just do things right. and again awesome job.

F4MOU$
07-23-2008, 01:39 PM
I haven't posted these up yet, because I don't want white stealth to get P.O.ed. Then it came to me, we just won't tell him, you guy's promise to keep quiet right? It will be our little secret, what white stealth don't know, won't hurt. Right?
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront001.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront004.jpg

This last one, is just a shot of where I relived the lower bumper cover, for the larger tires.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/atkxr600/dmaxfront005.jpg

Seriously stealth, you know imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

That is fvcking sick man. I want it sooooooo bad. Wanna trade?

ajpal87
07-23-2008, 03:05 PM
Great job on the truck, it looks awesome. I always wanted to fix up a salvaged vehicle, but I always thought that it would have been way to much work, but now you got me second guessing myself. Anyway you got a great looking truck there

94383Z71
07-24-2008, 04:58 AM
Thanks for all the compliments guys. Sorry no trades, thanks though.

Anyone considering a project like this, just be aware it's alot of work. I look at some of the other truckss in this thread, where guys are doing body drops, and back halving thier truck, I just can't imagine that amount of work.

Custom fab work is soooo much more labor intensive, than rebuilding one mostly stock.

If you have the garage, time and tools, go for it. You'll find guy's that will chime in and help with questions. I got alot of help from this thread on body work, and spraying technique.

Thanks again, everyone.

94383Z71
07-24-2008, 05:05 AM
what an awesome job man i am impressed and u just gave me so much insperation to work on my project truck was not really sure if i wanted to do my self but i think im going to try. it just shows what can be accomplished with some time and hard work. u dont really need to be an expert u need to just do things right. and again awesome job.

This about sums it up. Dive in, whats the worst that can happen?

I've had to redo several things, left rocker and right cab corner were repainted last nite, due to my mistakes. I painted the hood twice, and the left box side twice. And the truck is NOT perfect, if sweetea, white stealth or any of the guys on here that do autobody repair for a living, were to walk around it, they would find flaws. But they find flaws in factory job's too!

It can get discouraging, but in the end, my son and I will know we built it at home.