part recomendation

[trickedout420]

what does everyone recomend for the following parts based on real world experience this is just for chevy vehicles of our years. 73-87

this is for a friend of mine. he has to do a paper on what people use like what actually works out of all the parts out there.
1. oil type (brand, weight) - castrol gtx 10w40
2. spark plugs - ac delco (cheap ones)
3. water pump - napa brand new pump
4. thermostat degree - 180
5. oil pump - stock
6. timing chain - stock
7. distributor type - HEI
8. radiator - stock (be cool one sitting in garage)
9. carb type (quad, edelbrock, holley, demon etc..) - edelbrock 600
10. ignition system type (examples: MSD, Accel, Petronix etc.) - stock hei
- If your motor has been rebuilt or performanced -
11. bearings - stock
12. rods - stock
13. pistons - stock
14. crank - stock
15. heads - stock
16. cam - stock

basically he has to write a paper about do more expensive parts perform better then less expensive parts. so if you can help him out any it would be appreciated.

[Ivan D.]

1. oil - Shell Rotella T for diesel trucks, not expensive but good
2. spark plugs - NGK V-power, work just fine even with my oil-burn issue, no fouling or anything
3. water pump - high-flow GM pump remanufactured by A1 Cardone
4. thermostat - 195F, tis cold here and engines like staying nice and warm to begin with
5. oil pump - I've been told a stock pump is plenty enough, however I run a high-volume Melling pump (price was comparable)
6. timing chain - Clevite double-roller, I don't revv high enough to justify anything real fancy and expensive
7. dizzy - stock HEI, works fine for me
8. radiator - stock 4-core for a big-block should be fine
9. carb - I'm too dumb to work on a Q-jet, so I run a Holley, lol
10. ignition original GM module, have a Holley digital box but don't really need it right now
11. bearings - Federal Mogul self-polishing ones at the crank, Clevite at the cam
12. stock rods
13. stock pistons
14. forged GM crank
15. stock 883 heads, ported

One important thing you missed in the list is the intake - a good intake can really wake up your engine, the wrong one for the application can negate all the other upgrades you've done. That said I have an Offenhauser 360 intake that has that crazey split-port design that keeps the air speed high no matter which carburetor bores are open, I've been told tis an old concept and newer intakes with a more conventional design outperform it but it works just fine for me.

All that pile in my case is supposed to put out over 325hp and 375lb-ft at the crank and also moves the truck so effortlessly that on wet roads I really gotta be careful ho much I press on the throttle or the truck gets squirelly.

[bored&stroked]

1. oil type (brand, weight) - Royal purple 10-30- testing proves over and over synthetic is better
2. spark plugs - ac delco or NGK [standerd resistor]
3. water pump - High flow replacment, dosen't have to be high $$ aluminum either.
4. thermostat degree - 160* of course
5. oil pump - high volume
6. timing chain -double roller
7. distributor type - HEI
8. radiator - stock 4 cores work great
9. carb type (quad, edelbrock, holley, demon etc..) - holley avenger
10. ignition system type (examples: MSD, Accel, Petronix etc.) - daily driver motor I would use a MSD hei module and coil. For a performance motor I use a 6a box and blaster 2 coil
- If your motor has been rebuilt or performanced -
11. bearings - clevite series
12. rods - 5.7" stock rods with arp bolts or SCAT budget rods
13. pistons - hypertecnic cast for daily driver/mild performance, forged for any boost and high performance
14. crank - SCAT 9000 series cast for under 500hp, SCAT forged over 500hp
15. heads - no stock castings allowed except for vortecs, they ALL SUCK
16. cam - roller if at all possable. Solid if you don't mind setting valves. Hydro if you must...

basically he has to write a paper about do more expensive parts perform better then less expensive parts.

In a word.............YES

[ocbaud]

dont know if its better than other stuff, but this is what i run:

1. oil type (brand, weight) - mobil1 10w30 (7quarts)
2. spark plugs - ngk plugs(forgot the heat range)
3. water pump - napa pump(my alum. hiflow seized up)
4. thermostat degree - 180 hi flow
5. oil pump - moroso high volume pump
6. timing chain - double roller
7. distributor type - msd
8. radiator - 2 core alum (2" thick cores)
9. carb type (quad, edelbrock, holley, demon etc..) - 650cfm speeddemon
10. ignition system type (examples: MSD, Accel, Petronix etc.) - msd 6al and blaster2 coil
- If your motor has been rebuilt or performanced -
11. bearings - stock type
12. rods - gm pink rods (arp bolts)
13. pistons - hyper pistons
14. crank - stock cast crank
15. heads - holley alum. heads
16. cam - comp cams 270h flat tappet

[GreaseDog]

1. oil type (brand, weight) - castrol gtx 10w30
2. spark plugs - AC Delco
3. water pump - AC Delco
4. thermostat degree - 180 or 195 Stant or AC Delco
5. oil pump - Stock pressure stock volume
6. timing chain - Cloyes double roller
7. distributor type - HEI, or MSD replacement
8. radiator - stock sized, aluminum core if not already equipped stock
9. carb type (quad, edelbrock, holley, demon etc..) - Quadrajet, or TBI
10. ignition system type - stock hei
- If your motor has been rebuilt or performanced -
11. bearings - stock type
12. rods - stock recon, polished beams HD bolts
13. pistons - hypereutectic
14. crank - stock, ground/polished, sometimes radiused mains
15. heads - stock castings, port matching, multi angle valve seat
16. cam - hydraulic flat or roller tappet

[Redbird]

1. oil type - Mobil 1 10w30 (conventional oil is fine, and will do the job adequately under normal circumstances. Synthetic is just better insurance)
2. spark plugs - ac delco
3. water pump - stock high flow
4. thermostat degree - 160* (it's warm down here)
5. oil pump - stock pressure, high volume
6. timing chain - stock
7. distributor type - HEI w/MSD coil
8. radiator - stock for now (anything aluminum is better than brass... period)
9. carb type - Holley Street Avenger
10. ignition system type - stock HEI w/MSD coil
- If your motor has been rebuilt or performanced -
11. bearings - stock
12. rods - stock
13. pistons - stock
14. crank - stock
15. heads - stock
16. cam - stock

Generally you get what you pay for. But "More Expensive" doesn't always mean better. There's alot of stuff out there that you're paying for the name and not the quality. Do your research, and spend wisely. And, you have to look at your application and what you're going to do with it. For example: an average use daily driver has no need for high end connecting rods. Where as a serious weekend racer would benefit from them.