383 Supercharged Engine Build Up!

[GMC K1500 SC]

Well as some of you know my old engine gave up the ghost with 130,000 miles on it...the crank nose broke off right at the lower timing chain gear!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/guess-what-broke/SANY0072.JPG

My thinking is that it was caused by an over tight SC belt that did it in but it may of been a lot of things like the high milage, cast stock crank, extra load from having an extra pulley and adapter on it for the SC...I've heard of two other guys breaking it there as well.

So the truck is sitting in the garage for now but I have started a 383 stroker engine build up and should have it back together the middle or end of December....

Along the way I have learned a great deal on what needs to be done and I will cover this in hopes of helping anyone else thinking about doing this as this is a lot of money to be guessing with!

Here is what I have decided to have done to the engine:

Block Work:

Cast 350 CI Late Model "2 bolt block" with billet steel 4 bolt main caps installed with ARP bolts, oven baked, shot penned, clearanced, pressure checked for leaks, Magnafluxed for cracks, Line honed mains, cylinders bore perpendicular to crank, parallel decked and finish honed with deck plates-ARP Main Studs (full length windage tray will bolts on to this)

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/383-21cc-Forged-pistons.jpg Go to page two for more pictures

SRP Forged 31 CC Dish Top Pistons (9.0 to 1 compression with milled vortec heads at 57cc chambers)
Wheeler Motorsports Moly Rings, file fitted
Scat 4340 Forged Steel Nitrated New Stroker Crankshaft-Internally balanced, One piece main seal!
Wheeler 4340 Forged Steel "H" Beam New Connecting Rods-5.7" length (lite weight...600 grams each)
Clevite "H" Series Bearings
Durabond Cam Bearings
Clevite high volume oil pump and welded pickup.
HD 168 tooth flex plate With ARP Crank Bolts
Crower 0041LM Cam 214/220 duration, 473/496 lift 114 Sep.
Stock Vortec steel heads with stainless steel Ferrea valves, stock intake 1.94 with oversize 1.6 exhaust, comp valve job, screw in rocker studs, mild port clean up...deburred...do NOT recommend you match port vortech heads.

Here is why I came up with these parts:

Late Model (LM) block as you got to have the right holes in the block like for the knock sensor, etc. Also a two bolt block has thicker webbing so you install stronger steel caps to replace the cast ones and install two more bolts...all the prep work is worth it for the piece of mind too :)

Forged Pistons with 31cc dish...should of actual had 24cc pistonts installed...reason the heads were milled as compression would of been 8.5 to 1.....But you got to remember most of the time you are not on the boost so a slighty higher compression ration will not kill the bottom end esp. with a Vortech Supercharger system as it does not build up the boost at lower rpms...if I was running a Whipple (roots type) Supercharger the lower compression ration may of been a better idea. Balanced within 1/2 gram.

File fitted rings is a must as the gap must be perfect so you get no binding as everything expands when it gets hot.

Scat Forged 4340 Crank....much stronger than the 4130 for just a few hundred dollars more...also no worries about breaking the crank nose again...should also be able to take a bit of NOS too :) Was going to go with a two piece seal crank....but they always leak down the road.

Wheeler 4340 5.7" H-beam rods...these weight about the same as stock rods but are much stronger and match the crank strength. balanced within 1/2 gram. 5.7" rods will make more HP in a Supercharged engine as the piston will start moving quicker than with 6.0" rods....6.0" rods are much better suited for NA engines.

Also a good time to replace all the engine and trans mounts! Went with a good set of black Poly mounts.

Always good to go with the best bearings and bolts...also using Fel-pro HP gasket set at .039 thick compressed. I will post more pics and info as the project goes along.

With a Supercharged engine you don't need to go to big on the Cam...this is as big as you want to go and still have a smooth idle and pass smog...a friend of mine Lee went with a 0042LM and still passed smog but he lives at 4400 feet elevation which may of helped :)

Stock Vortec heads for now with a simple comp 3 angle valve job and some very mild port clean up...mostly deburring it of the sharpies on the intake and exhaust openings and around the valve pockets....you don't want to go crazy on a street truck as you may actually flow less and kill your mpg.

Engine should be close to 600+HP with 8-10psi of boost :)

If any of you are interested in having an engine built up you need to contact Sheldon at Wheeler Motorsports: http://www.wheelermotorsports.net and tell him Ken in Moreno Valley set ya! After talking to a ton of people and getting prices...I found that Sheldon's shop had the best bang for the buck and knew that they were doing and were willing to bend with my needs...I must of called them two dozen times and each time Sheldon was happy to talk to me and hear my concerns :)

Again I will post more pics as I get them.

Ken
Moreno Valley, Calif.
http://www.kctrading.net/sierra

[rollinstyle]

Sounds awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product and times.:D :rocking:

[FOracing]

:eek: :eek: :eek:


That is awesome man!!!....Sounds very well thought through...and Quality as well!!

I just wanna ask though what are you doing to the driveline (ie....tranny...yah well you get it :D ) and its components to compliment these upgrades...:D Just curious

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by FOracing
:eek: :eek: :eek:


That is awesome man!!!....Sounds very well thought through...and Quality as well!!

I just wanna ask though what are you doing to the driveline (ie....tranny...yah well you get it :D ) and its components to compliment these upgrades...:D Just curious

Tranny is built to the max...I should have a tech article on this as well.... :)

Here is the link on what I did to it with pics:
http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/173474.html

I lunch in 4HI so not to much concern about blowing up the 10 bolt...in 2wd I have very little traction as it never hooks up because it is so light in the back end with out a bumper or tow bar...I am going to replace the u-joints and I now have a drive line saftey loop :)

Ken

[Toolman]

Wow that sounds like it will be fun to drive. Keep us posted

[97Silverado]

Hey Ken, what are you looking at in the way of programming?

[GMC K1500 SC]

I'm using a MAFT+ to adjust for extra fuel when not on the boost and a FMU to add more fuel when under boost...but I may be limited to about 5-6psi until I can also install my MF2 unit which is like a superfueler which allows you to install two extra 96 pound injectors just below the TBI :)

I've got a Matco scanner I use to check all the readings but I would love to get a 5 volt wide band 02 meter!

Ken

[96vortec350]

I was wondering how you were going to get enough fuel. I abandoned my truck project a couple months ago and bought, yes... an f-body. I think that was a big mistake. I just didn't want to keep working on a limited platform because I couldn't get enough fuel. Even if there was no way to make it faster I should have kept that truck. Good luck with your project Ken.

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by 96vortec350
I was wondering how you were going to get enough fuel. I abandoned my truck project a couple months ago and bought, yes... an f-body. I think that was a big mistake. I just didn't want to keep working on a limited platform because I couldn't get enough fuel. Even if there was no way to make it faster I should have kept that truck. Good luck with your project Ken.

Did you read the post above yours?

Ken

[96vortec350]

Originally posted by GMC K1500 SC


Did you read the post above yours?

Ken

I did read the post. That is why I said that I WAS, not I am, wondering how you were going to get enough fuel. I also was stating that I wish that I knew that you could do that sooner, because I wish that I would have kept my truck because I would have done that on my truck.

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by 96vortec350


I did read the post. That is why I said that I WAS, not I am, wondering how you were going to get enough fuel. I also was stating that I wish that I knew that you could do that sooner, because I wish that I would have kept my truck because I would have done that on my truck.

Ok...got ya :)

Having the MAFT+ is really cool...otherwise I'd have to mail the pcm back to Ed Wright at fastchip.com.

Also having the Super FMU from vortech makes it easy to dial in the fuel under boost conditions....only problem will be that I have to limit it to about 6psi until I can get the MF2 unit hooked up with the two extra injectors....

Would be nice if we could replace the factory injectors which are just 19lb units!

GM now makes a Marine injection system that looks pretty slick...check this link for pics!
http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/199128.html

Ken

[treyZ28]

good article
just a few things i disagree with.
personally, I think, the forged crank is overkill seeing how a scat stteel crank takes 700hp/7000rpms no problem

i woudn't use the racing series CAM bearings only becasue your not going to rev high enough to use them and they are so hard that they can actually wear on the cam :eek:

I also dont think the compression is low enough. that cam should make power down low and with a stall converter you should make boost in no time :D. adding that point of compression doesn't really do a whole hell of alot aside from more pressure. Do yourself a favor and go to 8.0

6'' vs 5.xx'' rods.
As gumpy said (or wrote, i'm 18, i wasn't around back then) its all in the geometry. " stuff the longest freaking rod possible in there!6''! there was an intresting debate oin the corvette forum about this. I think (and from what i've read and discussed), 6'' is the only way to go. it also reduces sidewall pressure on the rings, which could help you a lot.

just my humble opinon. thats what I did and i like my motor, mines more of a drag/street setup.
good luck:rocking: :bowtie:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by treyZ28
good article
just a few things i disagree with.
personally, I think, the forged crank is overkill seeing how a scat stteel crank takes 700hp/7000rpms no problem

i woudn't use the racing series CAM bearings only becasue your not going to rev high enough to use them and they are so hard that they can actually wear on the cam :eek:

I also dont think the compression is low enough. that cam should make power down low and with a stall converter you should make boost in no time :D. adding that point of compression doesn't really do a whole hell of alot aside from more pressure. Do yourself a favor and go to 8.0

6'' vs 5.xx'' rods.
As gumpy said (or wrote, i'm 18, i wasn't around back then) its all in the geometry. " stuff the longest freaking rod possible in there!6''! there was an intresting debate oin the corvette forum about this. I think (and from what i've read and discussed), 6'' is the only way to go. it also reduces sidewall pressure on the rings, which could help you a lot.

just my humble opinon. thats what I did and i like my motor, mines more of a drag/street setup.
good luck:rocking: :bowtie:

Remember the roller cam is much harder than a reg cam so it should be able to take the harder bearings...

Per Wheeler ratio should be around 8.6 to one allow me to run even more boost down the road...yup plan on replacing the 2500 stall with a 3,000 and a more aggressive STR ratio.

Yup, we decided to go with 6" rods even though 5.7 work a bit better on a SC engine I'll give up a bit of HP for less engine noise and a longer lasting engine...plus the torque curve would be broader.

Can't wait to get it installed!

[treyZ28]

hydrollic roller?
thats what i've got. I wouldn't really worry about spinning a cam bearing :)
i think the main bearings would go before them:LOL:
Good luck with it!
Keep us updated.

some tips for the motor swap

install WITH headers
WELD THE PICKUP ONTO THE PUMP!
DONT break the knock sensor
DONT break the map sensor
GET new o2 sensors
DONT break the oil level sensor
DONT break the coolant sensor

(yea, i have exhuast leaks, a pickup that fell off the pump, no knock/oil level/map/o2/coolant sensors :p

I got the pickup back on though :)
I dont need the rest of that crap for WOT :D

[K-9]

Ken, do you have more info on the extra injectiors???? Thanks





Kane:devil:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Finally pulled my engine today with James B. Help :)

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Eng-tear-down/Sany0001.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Eng-tear-down/Sany0002.jpg

Took a lot of pics which you can find on this link below.

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/204517.html

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by K-9
Ken, do you have more info on the extra injectiors???? Thanks





Kane:devil:

Info:

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/197360.html

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/201445.html

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by K-9
Ken, do you have more info on the extra injectiors???? Thanks

Check out there superfueler:
http://www.carrollsupercharging.com/index2.html

This is the unit I have, got it on ebay for $120 :)
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/mf2/mf2.html

http://www.precisionte.com/ford/fuelinjectors.htm


Ken


Kane:devil:

[2dfx]

Just curious - what made you choose the 383 stroker? I've always thought of it to be a dog motor...would have preferred the 327 myself! But! To each his own :D

[GMC K1500 SC]

What do you guys think?

Comp Series Custom Short Block P/N CSB000-00-0$2500
w/4340 H-beam rods, 4 bolt block...

P/N: SRP139632?? -31cc dish pistons for 5.7 rods, Main studs w/provision for windage tray, included

Scat 1pc rear seal crank 4340 with lite weight throws P/N: 4-350-3750-5700-L (upgrade) $375

Cut Crank for second keyway (blower application) $85 second keyway is twice as wide as stock. 180 from stock location.

Also got some SBC Vortech intake gaskets .125th thick...what do you think?

Felpro head gaskets .039 crush FEL7733PTB

SBC Hi-volume oip pump, M55HV and a bronze MSD8471 dist gear .500


Ken

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/383-21cc-Forged-pistons.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/4340rods-block-view.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/4340rods-2.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/4340rods.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/closeup-srp-pistons.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/double-keyed-crank.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/double-keyed-crank-2.jpg

[treyZ28]

did you buy that already?
those pistons concern me :think:
why do they have dimples and rivrets?


what brand is all this stuff?

i know that there is a GP in cz28.com GP section

LT1 383 Callies Rotating Assembly:
Callies Dragonslayer Crank 3.75” Stroke
Callies Pro I-Beam Connecting Rods 5.7” or 6.0”
JE/SRP Flat Top Pistons
Total Seal Ring Set
Clevite Race Main and Rod Bearings
$1985.00
options:
Inverted Dome Pistons: $40
Balancing: $175

THATS ONE STRONG *** SETUP :D

they are also offering cam kits

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=86253&perpage=15&pagenumber=1


the rotating assembly GP just ended yesterday, but i'm sure they can sneak you in :D.

The main reason i reccomend them is that they are cool as hell, work with you and SOOOOOO boost happy over there :D

those pistons "smoother" no? or is that just they way dished pistons look?


also if your going through all this trouble-
Get an ATI procharger
from what i've read, there is no comparison.
When i did my 383 i QUICKLY learned that the cheapest way to do it was not to get cheap stuff. I know how frustrating it can be, it was my first motor and my machine shop sucked (forgot to seal some oil passages :cussing: ). But trust me, the only way to do it is to do it right. I'm buying new torque converters and heads and valves and tuning and rears now :(
dont half *** it like I did:bawl: I'm just glad i didn't **** around with the rotating assembly :metal:


Anyway man, have fun with your setup
yes i am jelous:D
I need to go fix some problems on my car/truck like the lack of a blower and I seemed to have lost 1.2 L on the truck:confused:
I'm gonna go see what i can find :kidding:
JUST dont forget the golden rule
plan
make a time budget
make a financial budget
multiply each my two and dont think that it will even be done one budget!


HAVE FUN!
:head:SOUNDS KILLER!:head:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by treyZ28
[B]did you buy that already?
those pistons concern me :think:
why do they have dimples and rivrets?



those pistons "smoother" no? or is that just they way dished pistons look?




Those are just swirl marks in the -24cc forged SRP pistons...this also included the block and all the work they did to it....also got free freight to my home from FL

Scat 4340 3.75 stroker crank with lightening holes in the rod throws only...not recommend in the main body!

H-beam 4340 rods Wheeler custom made brand

Had the street dampr double keyed just in case I want to run more boot....will handle up to 15psi!

I already have a Vortech V1-S-trim SC what was on the old 350 engine....good for about 10psi max

Ken

[treyZ28]

12 second full size trucks :head:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Here are some pics of the oil filtration system I will be running...picked up all the pieces over the weekend:

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/215449.html

Also decided to have stainless steel Ferrea valves installed with over size 1.6 exhaust valves for added HP as there is a lot more HP in going bigger on the exhaust side esp. with a blown engine...not much gain on the intake side on a vortec head as there is to much valve shrouding plus vortec intake ports don't seem to like the bigger 2.02 valve as low to mid flow numbers suffer greatly!

Ken

[treyZ28]

what cam?

make sure you dont over cam a blower motor. I wsa reading up about this in cmaroz28.coms advanced tech section. I have no first hand expierence with blowers or anything too technical with cams-
but the guys there do. i'll find the article if u want:)

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by treyZ28
what cam?

make sure you dont over cam a blower motor. I wsa reading up about this in cmaroz28.coms advanced tech section. I have no first hand expierence with blowers or anything too technical with cams-
but the guys there do. i'll find the article if u want:)

Sure :)

Here is my cam card:

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00401LM

About as big as you can go and still pass CA smog on the sniffer...funny I had a friend run a 402LM cam and he still passed the AZ smog test with same engine...but it was a 350CI Also Lobe sep is a wide 114 to keep the idle smoother and more vac....had to bump up the idle 100-125 past stock specs to get it to idle good...actual idle is very smooth even with poly mounts.

Ken

[Jokeman]

How much power are you guessing this thing will make?:eek: :eek:

[treyZ28]

Originally posted by GMC K1500 SC


Sure :)

Here is my cam card:

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00401LM

About as big as you can go and still pass CA smog on the sniffer...funny I had a friend run a 402LM cam and he still passed the AZ smog test with same engine...but it was a 350CI Also Lobe sep is a wide 114 to keep the idle smoother and more vac.

Ken

very nice choice if I may say so myself :D


here are 2 blurbs from a "smart" guy to say the least in a cam discussion that sums it pretty well


Mr. James: what blower are you running, what CR, and what heads? In general though, if the blower flows in the 1000cfm range and you have decent heads and exhaust you will be able to make in the 600rwhp range (with a manual tranny) and should see boost in the 12-14psi range. This would be true using any of the XE cams that have been mentioned (214/224, 224/236, 230/242, etc.). Though as I said before, unless you absolutely can't get over the internet myth that "bigger is always better", you should go with a smaller rather than a bigger cam. Peak hp gains of 20-30rwhp at the top, if it's at the expense of drivability and low end torque, is a poor tradeoff for a street car. If you truly don't care about drivability and low end, have springs that will handle the lift and good heads, etc., there are some bigger cams you could consider. It's all in what you want and what parts combo you are running.

Choosing the correct lobe center is important, as is determining how much advance to have ground into the cam. The blower will need to "tuned" to match the cam by correct choice of pulley sizes to maximize the benefit of the cam.

Good luck.




and




Originally posted by rskrause
I have resisted posting to this thread, 'cause I have expressed my cam ideas often enough that I am sure many are tired of hearing them. But the idea that the 224/236XE cam is "small" wrt a centrifugal SC setup needs to be addressed. You can make 600+ rwhp with a smaller cam ( a la last years 214/224 in my car making 613rwhp) and not give up low end and midrange. For most setups, a larger cam will not make more hp. That's because once you max out the blower, it just aint gonna flow any more air regardless of intake duration. Very different than an NA setup, to say the least.

I would not recommend the 224/236 cam unless you are running a big blower. It won't do any good, will harm the low end and mid range, and may actually make less top end if the rest of the specs increase overlap. The 224/236XE lobes should be ground with a 116LSA for a blower car. 114 degrees is too narrow. And the 31xx (high lift) lobes should be used as well.

Rich Krause



Maldo: you experience does not contradict my statement. It was not a whole essay on blower cams. My statement presumes a certain "correct" blower setup with the blower pullied up to produce max boost at realtively low rpm. Otherwise, you can have a blower-cam "mismatch" which will produce exactly what you describe.

All you have to do is look at a blower spec sheet. Example: Vortech S-trim has a 1000cfm maximum according to SAE standard J1723. The standard is complicated, but it specifies a number of conditions that approximate real world use of the blower. You can think of the blower, in a sense, as an "inlet restriction". This, in turn, will limit hp. Put a blower of that size on a big enough motor, making 1200+hp or more NA, and I suppose you could actually make less peak hp with the blower.

Rich Krause



your setupd looks great. Although (as i'm sure you know) there is a possibility that a bit more could be be gained with a bit more cam- IMO its ALWAYS better undercam than over a cam a bit.

When you overcam, you end up short shifting which
a. does not allow you to use your whole powerband (and usually the best part)
b. you lose the gearing advantage of holding that lower gear longer
c. you short shifted so now in the next gear, your rpms are low and you have to fight the taller gear to get back in your power range- and your not in it yes so the rpms are going to build even slower.
d. the car uses more gas, more emission, less tame, more lope, less vac, less brakes- the whole 9 yards
undercam it a bit and u lose a bit of hp-
but disadvanges a c and d dont really apply

I might swap out my 236/242 cam for a mix b/t the 230/236 and the 236/242. or maybe i'll just use 1.5 lifters. I myself am guilty (or at least I speculate, no dyno yet) of overcaming a few degrees. I think i'll end up short ****ing 1-200rpms. not that bad though..


anyway- good luck with the build up. keep us posted:rocking:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Looks like I got the wrong windage studs installed as they are to short as you can see from the pics that the rods will actually hit it....going to call wheeler Monday and get these swaped out.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/383-bottom.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/383-side-view.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/need-longer-studs.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/milodon-pan.jpg

Will have to do some triming as well but need the correct "longer" stud kit to do this.

Ken

[treyZ28]

my list of "wrong" parts

oil pump
oil pump
head studs
rocker studs
flex plate
main studs
wheels

and a slew of other things i'm forgetting...

dont worry, more will come :)

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by treyZ28
my list of "wrong" parts

oil pump
oil pump
head studs
rocker studs
flex plate
main studs
wheels

and a slew of other things i'm forgetting...

dont worry, more will come :)

Got the oil pan figured out...going with a Milodon 7 quart stroker oil pan PN 30909 with is for a late model chevy short block with a RH dipstick one piece rear main seal...it also has a built in screen windage tray so I can leave the short studs installed...will have to modify the support bars that go from the engine mounts to the bellhousing but should be able to figure out somthing :) Will just need to clearance the stock steel inforced rubber pan gasket...Also going with there matching HV oil pickup.

http://www.milodon.com/images/30908.gif

Also what do you guys think of the Moroso blueprinted high volume oil pump #22112 Cavation and spark scatter can be a problem with a reg. (non-bluepringed) Melling HV pump.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/racingoilpump_part.jpg

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=14444

Ken

[treyZ28]

just be sure to weld the pickup on
and be sure to take the spring out when you are welding or it will become softer and you will lose pressure

my pickup fell off once:cussing:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by treyZ28
just be sure to weld the pickup on
and be sure to take the spring out when you are welding or it will become softer and you will lose pressure

my pickup fell off once:cussing:

The Milodon I am using also has a bracket that attaches to the oil pump to keep vibration down...but like you said I'm going to braze it on for added security :)

Yup I know about taking out the pump spring...can't tell you how many books and articles I have read...I think I'm going to explode with info sometimes ;)

Ken

[treyZ28]

Originally posted by GMC K1500 SC


The Milodon I am using also has a bracket that attaches to the oil pump to keep vibration down...but like you said I'm going to braze it on for added security :)

Yup I know about taking out the pump spring...can't tell you how many books and articles I have read...I think I'm going to explode with info sometimes ;)

Ken

just makin sure ;)
cant be too safe when it comes to oil systems :crazy:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Finally got my oil pan in...Not to happy with the metal louvered windage tray as the picture on there webpage clearly shows a screen tray! :( I sent them a email directly and they want another $80 for the correct screen and cap windage tray bolts...reason I got this pan was because I already have shortened windage tray bolts on my short block and I do not want to mess with them....we will see how they handle this...maybe they will fix there website so someone else does not do the same thing I did??? As of today it has not been changed!

Nice thing about this oil pan is that it will give me a total oil cap. of 9.5 quarts including the two quart dual oil filters and oil cooler

Pan is exactly 1.0" deeper in the front which should not be any problems with my 4x4 as I had 3" of room there. I will have to modify my support brackets that go to the bellhousing as the sump is much wider... but that will be easy fix.

I also have a rear baffle that goes in between the oil pump and has to be trimed to the pan...this keeps oil from hitting the rear of the crank under hard acelleration...also got a pair of crank scrapers on order from Jeg's which are very think plates that go in between the oil pan pasket and are held in place by the bolts...silicone kepts them from leaking.

After reading many books on the subject I decided to use a standard volume blueprinted oil pump from Moroso, which comes with different springs to adjust the top oil pressure...this pump also reduces spark scatter with an increase in volume/pressure over a stock pump without any additonal HP usage...a high volume pump can eat an additonal 10-15HP from an engine and actually cause the oil to run hotter as it would be bypassing internaly inside the pump most of the time....also keeps the lifters from pumping up at higher rpms and maintains a smoother oil flow to the bearings.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Milodon-7qt-30909/milodon7.jpg

Rest of the oil pan pics on this url...pics compared to my stock 4 quart oil pan that is used on the 1996+ 5.7L 4x4's...don't have the 5 quart pan any longer as I sold it to a friend at work. Also sent back the screen bolt on windage tray back for a credit from Jeg's as it would not fit my stock 5 quart oil pan...which Tom at Milodon said it would :( Reason I opt for the strocker oil pan with the built in screen<br>
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Milodon-7qt-30909/

Ken
http://www.kctrading.net/sierra/

[treyZ28]

Originally posted by GMC K1500 SC
Finally got my oil pan in...this will give me a total oil cap. of 9.5 quarts including the two quart dual oil filters and oil cooler....note it does not come with the screen windage tray any longer and you would have to buy it seperatly...I was told by Tom at Milodon tech that this one works just as good and allowed for more clearance...they did offer to sell it at there cost...but I think I will just kept this one :)

Pan is exactly 1.0" deeper in the front which should not be any problems with my 4x4 as I had 3" of room there. I will have to modify my support brackets that go to the bellhousing as the sump is much wider... but that will be easy fix.

I also have a rear baffle that goes inbetween the oil pump and has to be trimed to the pan...this keeps oil from hitting the rear of the crank under hard acelleration...also got a pair of crank scrapers on order from Jeg's which are very think plates that go inbetween the oil pan pasket and are held in place by the bolts...silicone kepts them from leaking.

After reading many books on the subject I decided to use a standard volume blueprinted oil pump from Moroso, which comes with different springs to adjust the top oil pressure...this pump also reduces spark scatter with an increase in volume/pressure over a stock pump without any additonal HP usage...a high volume pump can eat an additonal 10HP from an engine and actually cause the oil to run hotter as it would be bypassing internaly inside the pump most of the time.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Milodon-7qt-30909/milodon7.jpg

Rest of the oil pan pics on this url...pics compared to my stock 4 quart oil pan that is used on the 1996+ 5.7L 4x4's...don't have the 5 quart pan anylonger as I sold it to a friend at work.<br>
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Milodon-7qt-30909/

Ken
http://www.kctrading.net/sierra/

nice pan :bow:

very true about the pump-
not really needed if you aren't turning high R's IMHO

[GMC K1500 SC]

Finally got my heads back :)

Off a 1998 5.7L Vortec:

Added screw in studs and push rod guide plates.
Fierra stainless steel valves. 1.94/1.6
Comp. valve job done the right way.
Heads milled 25ths to get compression up to 9.0 to 1 (58cc)
Ports have already been cleaned up...but need to go further.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/vortech%20heads/Head-ports3.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/vortech%20heads/Head-ports4.jpg
Going with the 2.02 intakes would of further shrouded the valve and per my research would not of given much more increase in power for the expense...the weak link in the vortech heads is its weak exhaust flow ratio compared to the intake I/E 62% Going this route it will be around 75% I/E

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/vortech%20heads/Head-ports2.jpg
As you can see here the guides need to be tear dropped and some more pocket porting done where the comp valve job leaves off...esp. on the exhaust side since the ports have been enlarged. Will also do some additonal valve unshrouding....now this is how a comp valve job should look like!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/vortech%20heads/ss-valves.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/vortech%20heads/51ths-gap.jpg
Even with the heads milled and the block decked to .005 with .125 SCE intake gaskets there was no need to machine the intake side of the heads or do any work to the intake as there was still 51ths left to squish out the silicone at each end of the intake....one of the Mondello articles properly discribes how to match port the intakes which will also be done.

I've been doing a lot of reasearch on how to finsih up the guides and would like to share all my info with you guys :) Will post the after pics when I am finished.

Good idea to save them as a webpage so if the url goes away you still have it on your computer...also a good ideal to print them up and staple them together as you can mark on these...

As of 4-26-03 all of these were good links...more info than even all the books I have from Amazon.com :) Mondello articles are very good...enjoy!

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/81998/index.html

http://www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/cylhead.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/index.html

http://www.73-87.com/chp/gm350.htm

http://www.73-87.com/chp/dyno4.htm

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/head_flow_figures.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/

http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHeadPort.htm

http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHrsePwrSec.htm

http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtPtngAtHme.htm

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm

http://scirocco.dyndns.org/list/archives/2002/February/msg02130.html

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm

Ken

[OsaurusRex]

hey Ken What do u think of Stroking a 350 to a 383 with the Whipple Supercharger, used for Sand dunes and sand drags. No smog leagal Crap.

any Disatvantages besides the Custom Chip?

[treyZ28]

I strongly reccomend unshrouding those valves :eek:

[BadAzzGMCst]

man, that should be awesome! im really kicking myself for not making my engine a 383 stroker whenever i built it!

[badburban]

Ken,

I see someone has been reading up on alot of stuff. Thats quite the list of articles. Ive read quite of few of mondellos stuff a little while back and very informative. Id like to go to his head porting school. Ive got to pick up some more books though. Well Ive got mine up and running and it screams even with tbi which wont be there too much longer (lt1 intake here I come). I have feeling Ill be running a tt set up by next summer. Only 6 psi maybe 8 for the occasional ricer slaughter since I have a static cr of 9.5:1. Id build an intercooler set up for though of course. This is if I dont decide to build a 415 or something though for the same cost I can do a 434. 4" stroke 4.155" bore. ooooh that would be nice. And 434 just rolls off the tongue so nicely. :D Well I hope the remainder of your build up is smoother than mine. Unfortunately you cant bolt the heads to the bottom of the block and mark em. Thats what I did per Old88's suggestion. Definitely easy to do.

Josh

[GMC K1500 SC]

Scraping the 1" TB spacer to install the aux injectors as there is not enough room plus it is just to close to the intake to mix the air and fuel properly....even NOS Sys. recommends it to be around 6" above the TBI.

Going to run FOUR Lucas injectors that actually screw on to either a aluminum or steel boss...will mount these two to a side on either the rubber elbow tube just above the tbi or where the MAF is currently located. This will be run by my MF2 Controller: MF2 Website (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/mf2/techmf2/mf2tec.html)

Not sure what size injectors? 550cc to 310cc each, of course they will flow more at 60-77psi 60 being idle fuel pressure and 77psi was max fuel pressure at 8psi of boost with old 350 engine...also may take off the FMU if four of these can control the fuel properly under boost?! Hey are there any websites that convert this for you? Also I was told that the stock SFI injectors were 19lbs at 60psi...also PCM has already been programed by Ed Wright for 8psi of boost...my max boost with 383 will be around 9-10psi...I may go with a smaller pulley but lower the max rpms from 5300 to 5000 to keep the impeller speed within specs but to get more low rpm boost!?

Also an Ideal...a flat washer could be welded to the end of each boss so that it would screw into each injector through the rubber elbow...this would be trick! Also elbows are fuel proof rubber.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors2.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors3.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Intercooler-Installed!/SANY0023.JPG

I also run a MAF-Translator-plus which allows me to control the stock AFR and timing...yes it works on a L31 engine :)

Any and all suggestions are welcome guys...thanks!

Ken
(Old 130K 350 engine :)
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/VJOD67STSGNO.html

[TRUCKMAN93]

what year is your truck i was wondering i have a 93 and i was planning to do the moter this summer i am stilll undecided on which way to go i was thinking of a 383 with a super charger or a kit from comp cam that just bores the 350 to a 357 and tha nstick a super charger on that the cost of the comp cam kit is about 350 so i would be able to build the moter for less than a grand i was wonder ing about the price that u spent on parts not machining just an estimated figure

[GMC K1500 SC]

This just came out in CarCraft this Month...about the best how to article on how to port vortec heads...very good pictures...enjoy!

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index1.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index2.html

As you can see...big increase on the exhaust side...reason I also went with 1.6 exhaust vavles but kept the intake valve stock size...with a SC/Turbo/NOS engine you want more breathing on the exhaust side...as much as 90% flow bais compared to the intake side....for a NA application 75% is a good target as the intake needs all the help it can get.

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by TRUCKMAN93
what year is your truck i was wondering i have a 93 and i was planning to do the moter this summer i am stilll undecided on which way to go i was thinking of a 383 with a super charger or a kit from comp cam that just bores the 350 to a 357 and tha nstick a super charger on that the cost of the comp cam kit is about 350 so i would be able to build the moter for less than a grand i was wonder ing about the price that u spent on parts not machining just an estimated figure

Sorry missed this post...

1996 GMC K1500

About $6,000 in the engine long block and counting ;)

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by GMC K1500 SC
Scraping the 1" TB spacer to install the aux injectors as there is not enough room plus it is just to close to the intake to mix the air and fuel properly....even NOS Sys. recommends it to be around 6" above the TBI.

Going to run FOUR Lucas injectors that actually screw on to either a aluminum or steel boss...will mount these two to a side on either the rubber elbow tube just above the tbi or where the MAF is currently located. This will be run by my MF2 Controller: MF2 Website (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/mf2/techmf2/mf2tec.html)

Not sure what size injectors? 550cc to 310cc each, of course they will flow more at 60-77psi 60 being idle fuel pressure and 77psi was max fuel pressure at 8psi of boost with old 350 engine...also may take off the FMU if four of these can control the fuel properly under boost?! Hey are there any websites that convert this for you? Also I was told that the stock SFI injectors were 19lbs at 60psi...also PCM has already been programed by Ed Wright for 8psi of boost...my max boost with 383 will be around 9-10psi...I may go with a smaller pulley but lower the max rpms from 5300 to 5000 to keep the impeller speed within specs but to get more low rpm boost!?

Also an Ideal...a flat washer could be welded to the end of each boss so that it would screw into each injector through the rubber elbow...this would be trick! Also elbows are fuel proof rubber.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors2.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/lucas-injectors3.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Intercooler-Installed!/SANY0023.JPG

I also run a MAF-Translator-plus which allows me to control the stock AFR and timing...yes it works on a L31 engine :)

Any and all suggestions are welcome guys...thanks!

Ken
(Old 130K 350 engine :)
http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/VJOD67STSGNO.html

Here is all the parts together...just need to cut down and thread the other side of the bosses, drill out the 1" adapter plate and tap it so the boss will screw in with some teflon tape, brass compression nuts will almost be touching the adapter plate once installed...best to install them up front as pictured side by side with a light tilt in the up direction as there is quite a bit of room there.

James B. gave me his two old 42lb injectors (aux whipple injectors) which rate at 56lbs if I keep the fmu unit (77 psi fuel pressure at max rpms) Will also need to machine a bit of the plastic off the injector inlet so a stainless steel hose can go over it....figure I could hook the fuel fittings up to the fuel test port with some fittings.

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/aux-injector-kit1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/Injectors/aux-injector-kit2.jpg

Will also need to open up the adapter to match the 80mm BBK I have...my intake has already been opened up as the BBK comes with a 1/2" aluminum adapter plate for those that do not match to match port them :)

http://www.kctrading.net/sierra/http://www.kctrading.net/sierra/shots/throttle05.jpg

Ken
http://www.kctrading.net/sierra/

[geno96Z71]

Ken,
Congratulations on your 383 stroker build up- I've read yor entire thread and you've definitely done your homework. I'm sure you'll never shear a crankshaft snout again (rearends may be a different story w/ 600+ hp:D ). I used to street race ('72 Firebird w/ a built RAIII 400), so I dig the tech specs too. IMHO overkill is always the best wat to go- you'll never have to worry about breaking the motor (just everything else).

Stupid question- what kind of mileage did you pull down with the 350 and the supercharger? Also, are you planning to upgrade your rearend? I'm sure 600+hp will send the stock GM 10-bolt to junkyard heaven. What kind of exhaust are you running?

Geno

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by geno96Z71
Ken,
Congratulations on your 383 stroker build up- I've read yor entire thread and you've definitely done your homework. I'm sure you'll never shear a crankshaft snout again (rearends may be a different story w/ 600+ hp:D ). I used to street race ('72 Firebird w/ a built RAIII 400), so I dig the tech specs too. IMHO overkill is always the best wat to go- you'll never have to worry about breaking the motor (just everything else).

Stupid question- what kind of mileage did you pull down with the 350 and the supercharger? Also, are you planning to upgrade your rearend? I'm sure 600+hp will send the stock GM 10-bolt to junkyard heaven. What kind of exhaust are you running?

Geno

This is the 14 bolt I am building up...4.10 gears with a HD Eaton limited slip with HD axles...everything else brand new inside...same rear end they use in the new C1500HD

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/220008.html

Was getting 12-14mpg with the SC with 80% city driving with 3.73 gears...will be in the 11-12's with the new setup.

I've gotton off track with it for a while...once I get our kitchen done I will get back to porting the vortech heads.

Ken

[geno96Z71]

Ken,
Metric 14-bolt... nice again:D. I like the way you think- eventually I'd like to do the same (although I think I'll go with a Detroit Locker). What is there in the way of a locker for the front diff?

Do you have a lift on your truck? Mine is stock for now, but I'd like to go 6"- just trying to decide which kit to go with.

Don't forget to post your pics when you port your heads.

Thanks,
Geno

[BCossette]

Ken buddy, it's been a couple months, how's this project coming along?

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by BCossette
Ken buddy, it's been a couple months, how's this project coming along?

Got the 4.10 gears in the front diff...had to put the engine head work on hold while we re-did our kitchen from scratch...also still waiting on the Eaton 14 bolt limited slip diff as they had a problem with the cases not being up to snuff from there supplier...anyway now that the kitchen is done I will get back to finishing up the engine :)

Ken

[BCossette]

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! :cool:

I'm doing an LS1 conversion with a t-56 6 speed, and once I get that all in there, and Re-Do my fuel cell and get a new pump, i'll probably pull the LS1 and stroke it out to either a 383 or a 427. The thing with that engine is that i have to get it into the truck and functioning before I try to build it up too crazy. Did you ever consider an LS1? I'm doing it because of the Fuel Economy, i'll be getting about 22mpg but that's in my std cab, short bed, 2wd truck. :D

Keep us posted on the project, as im researching more on engines!!!!!!

- Brandon

[some1else]

Originally posted by BCossette
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! :cool:

I'm doing an LS1 conversion with a t-56 6 speed, and once I get that all in there, and Re-Do my fuel cell and get a new pump, i'll probably pull the LS1 and stroke it out to either a 383 or a 427. The thing with that engine is that i have to get it into the truck and functioning before I try to build it up too crazy. Did you ever consider an LS1? I'm doing it because of the Fuel Economy, i'll be getting about 22mpg but that's in my std cab, short bed, 2wd truck. :D

Keep us posted on the project, as im researching more on engines!!!!!!

- Brandon

You're worried about fuel economy and you're swapping for a 383 or 427 LS1??????

Why spend $10,000 on a stroked LS1 swap when you can spend less than half that and get only 3-4 mpg less??

[treyZ28]

Well the LS1 has TONS of NA potential with its big runners and 15* heads so that makes sense. The aluminum block will save 50lbs or so.



the LS1 will also bolt up directly into his truck, a very easy swap from a 4.8/5.3L. The standard SBC/LT1 will not bolt up as easily.

As far as gas milage goes- unless you're planning on doing a LOT of driving, I dont see why you are spending an extra $5000 to get 5-10% better gas milage:think:

in order to regain your money, you would need to spend like $60,000 in gas:whatever:

[GMC K1500 SC]

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Vortec-porting/Finished-vortec-heads1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/Vortec-porting/Finished-vortec-heads2.jpg

I know, I know it took me over a year to get these done....man what a lot of work to do it right!

Will start the engine assembly process next weekend :)

Ken

[BCossette]

Originally posted by treyZ28
Well the LS1 has TONS of NA potential with its big runners and 15* heads so that makes sense. The aluminum block will save 50lbs or so.

the LS1 will also bolt up directly into his truck, a very easy swap from a 4.8/5.3L. The standard SBC/LT1 will not bolt up as easily.

As far as gas milage goes- unless you're planning on doing a LOT of driving, I dont see why you are spending an extra $5000 to get 5-10% better gas milage:think:

in order to regain your money, you would need to spend like $60,000 in gas:whatever:

I drive 5 miles to school, 5 miles back home. And work is 2 miles from home. I guess the 10mpg with this 4.3 because of two stuck rockers is the reason i was so anal about gas mileage.

[Matt@PLC]

Is it about done?

[Stroker 1500]

I have a question about the aux fuel injectors. wont there be a problem with fuel puddling on the lower intake manifold?? how much did it cost just to setup the two aux injectors. im curious because i might want to do somethin like that when i supercharge and do some engine work on my 98

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by rcfast
I have a question about the aux fuel injectors. wont there be a problem with fuel puddling on the lower intake manifold?? how much did it cost just to setup the two aux injectors. im curious because i might want to do somethin like that when i supercharge and do some engine work on my 98

Quite a few guys have done this approach...you can also use a Superfueler as well:

Which a friend of mine Lee (blown4x4) has used with good results...

http://www.carrollsupercharging.com/oldsite/index2.html

Ken

[cbraga]

Did you re-program the computer?? I just put a 383 in my 96 hoe, and it just didn't run right before the computer upgrade. I just drove it today for the first time with the new motor, all I can say is HELL YEA!!!!! Hope you like yours as much as I like mine.

:devil:

[GMC K1500 SC]

Originally posted by cbraga
Did you re-program the computer?? I just put a 383 in my 96 hoe, and it just didn't run right before the computer upgrade. I just drove it today for the first time with the new motor, all I can say is HELL YEA!!!!! Hope you like yours as much as I like mine.

:devil:

Ed Wright did the reprogram for the stock 350 SC with 8psi of boost running a SFMU...I also have a MAFT+ attached to the computer which allows for adjustment of the fuel and timing....I could get away with just this if I run it at 6psi of boost...more boost will need either more fuel pressure which the upgraded spider injectors can handle (no poppets) but I may install the two extra injectors if they can handle the fuel needs of the new engine.

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Progress on 383 engine build up...lots of pictures...check url below!

Click Here for latest buildup info... (http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/264114.html)

http://james.jaguar.net/KCTrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly/Block-1Head.jpg

Ken

[BCossette]

Great job man. Why do you keep changing my mind about what engine i wanna put in my truck :crazy: Good job nonetheless, and keep us posted!

[Otto]

its been a month and im anxious for some new news and pictures....anything new? nice job on the buildup. look at this thread almost every week.

[1BAD9T7]

Just found this thread.... any new updates? Very nice project!!!


Jason

[GMC K1500 SC]

Goal is to have it all together by the end of this year...14 bolt finally installed!

Ken

[Otto]

good deal

[GMC K1500 SC]

Update on engine:

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/281657.html

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Update...ready to install!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly4-ready-to-install/eng-right.jpg

http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/282256.html

Ken

[CodyZ71]

Sweeeeet! I found your site the other night on google, and then found this thread tonight... Can't wait to see the finished product... and videos of it eating ricers all day!
I know its probably been awhile and all, but when your engine was stock, how much of a improvement was those doug thorleys? Any rust problems?

[Otto]

dang thats sweet!!! have fun changing the alternato, hehe. cant wait for some videos!

[GMC K1500 SC]

Sweeeeet! I found your site the other night on google, and then found this thread tonight... Can't wait to see the finished product... and videos of it eating ricers all day!
I know its probably been awhile and all, but when your engine was stock, how much of a improvement was those doug thorleys? Any rust problems?


I installed the Thorley's when it was NA and it knocked off .7 off my 0-60 times and that was after installing a homemade cat back system of dual 2.5" pipes to a 3" Magnaflow muffler out a 3" mandrel bent single pipe....right now it's got dual 3" to a 4" diesel Magnaflow muffler through a 4" mandrel bent tailpipe to a 5" tip...had to do this as there was to much back pressure with the smaller system....I did have one header chrome blister right after installation but they replaced it for me...I'd recommend you get them coated as I wish I had of...right now I am looking for a good used set of 1 3/4" pri.

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

James helped me get some pics uploaded to his site as my computer is still down.

Everything is done now except for finish hooking up the dual elec fan wiring and making up a new pressure 180 degree elbow as you can see from the pics that the old one will not work any longer with the new upright location of the SC (single belt system)...all the fluids have been added, trans, oil, coolent, p.s. Will make up new brackets for the fan on top and a wider 180 degree pressure pipe when James comes over on Saturday and then we will fire it up!!!

Eng took 9 quarts of oil to fill to the add 1/2 quart mark on the dip stick...this included filling up the high pressure ford oil filters. (HP1 filters)

Covers on oil lines are super high temp fiberglass insulated aviation line covers to protect the SS line from the header heat...cost $6-8 a foot!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/engine1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/engine2.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/engine3.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/engine4.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/filters1.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/filters2.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/lines.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/lines-pan.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/oil_adapter.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/milodon.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/pulley.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/Pics-of-truck-3-2-02/383-Shortblock/assembly5-done/supercharger_oil.jpg

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

It's alive!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/383startup.mpg

Got the rest of the bugs out of it before we drove it 6-7 miles tonight.

Had to replace the serp belt as the one they gave me in the kit was to long allowing the tensioner to bottom out causing the alt to slip and squeel really bad even at idle with the fans on....very hard to find a 110.5" belt in Moreno Valley CA!...could only find this one at CarCraft..Gates solid belt. It still was a tad to small so I upgraded the SC pulley from 3.5" to the 3.33" pulley nice and quite now!

Also replaced all the gas hoses as they started to crack...got some nice blue 300psi hoses.

Also forgot that I did not bleed the rear brakes...also re-adjusted the rear brakes...pedel nice and firm...stops great!

Man I am really impressed with it so far....so sweet sounding....quite a bit louder than before with a slight rough idle.

Going to drive it pretty easy for the next 500 miles as I will be moving next Saturday to my new house in Hemet so I don't want any issues...also want to break in the rear OE 4.10 gears....shifts great and OD feels like another gear when it goes in...no slop or slip....Auburn also working great...love it when it locks a bit on the corners...like the powertrax did but with no binding or poping noise!

I washed it today and cleaned the rear windows...going to rain tomorrow....going to go for another short ride tomorrow but a little longer.

James...had to add another 4 quarts to the tranny after you left...adding the new TC took quite a bit more oil...plus the bigger deep tranny pan....TC feels about 2500 but I have not got on it as yet.

Anyone here with exp. with Poly Engine and Tranny mounts??? You can feel quite a bit more engine vibration with them but not bad around town....well have to try it on the freeway...right now I am keeping the vac at the most at Zero with no boost...maybe 20% throttle....man with just that much throttle it's as fast as a stock truck :)

Thanks for all your help James...you got to come over for a ride so we can post another vid! My computer is still down for repairs....

Thanks for all the support guys!

Ken
www.kctrading.net/sierra

[CodyZ71]

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I LOVE THAT TRUCK. Good job man! I can't wait to see videos of you smoking... Ricers, possibly vettes hahahaha!

[DragginLowChevy]

i'll bet that thing is a ride of a life time. I would cry at the price of the motor parts, machine work, and the SC.

Looks good!

[GMC K1500 SC]

Well I figured out the vibration! Idles and revs up as smooth as glass now!!!

Wheeler Motor Sports told me to install the wrong flexplate....even on the invoice in big letters run a "netural balanced flex plate" Well the engine was balanced for a counter weighted flex plate! I even had to wait over 6 months to get a back ordered one from ATI...wasted $200 on a chromemoly one.

James B. and I think the bearings should be ok and was driven pretty easy with 1K miles on it.

Crank is a Scat 4340 forged stroker unit with 4340 H-beam 5.7 rods and forged 30cc dish pistons (8.9 to 1 comp) with four bolt main caps running studs...also has a street fluiddamp dampnr

I will be ordering a HD flexplate and matching bolts from Summit Racing tomorrow....

Anyway it's back up and running great!

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/383-5psi-1-2-run.avi
Note: shift points were at 5200rpms....now set at 5800 with 2 more degrees of advance...still no pinging on Regular gas!

Ken

Ken

[treyZ28]

word of advice; i've been around boost and speak to those that have boost running through their vains regularly.

get that thing dynotuned well. not WOT tuned, but make sure it spends about 5-7 hours on there minimum if you want it to last.

my 2

[GMC K1500 SC]

I know where you are coming from! Right now it does not get to use much of its power as I moved to Hemet so it 99% city driving :( I have a TunerCat programer and matco scanner...but I will be buying a wideband meter before upping the boost.

Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Looks like the stock maf just is not big enough guys....got me a Z06 MAF which is also the same as used on the 6.0L trucks, etc.

Stock L31 (1996 5.7L) MAF sensor half (there are to half sections in the maf) measures 73cm by 33cm
Stock late model L06 MAF sensor half measures 84cm x 36cm

This will give you an idea just how much bigger the venturi (smallest section) is compared to the L31 maf! Yeah, I used a coat hanger as a vernier caliper :)
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/L31-73mm-caliper-maf.jpg

http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/z06-73mm-caliper-maf.jpg

Showing the inlet sides together:
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/z06-vs-l31-in-maf.jpg

Showing the outlet sides together:
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/z06-vs-l31-out-maf.jpg

Inlet to inlet:
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/z06-vs-l31-in-to-in-maf.jpg

Outlet to outlet:
http://james.jaguar.net/kctrading/TunerCat/Z06-vs-L31-MAF/z06-vs-l31-out-to-out-maf.jpg

I got the adapter cables today as well...leaving the screen in place this time too :)

https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/images/108100.jpg
https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=108100&Category_Code=

Also got a 4.0 x 3.0" Hump hose and t-clamp coming in the mail as the 3.0x3.0" will not fit on this MAF

Here is the stock 85mm Delphi/Holden MAF table:
1.57 1.85 2.17 2.55 2.98 3.45 3.95 4.48 5.07 5.73 6.43 7.2 8.02 8.91 9.84 10.84 11.9 13.05 14.27 15.59 16.99 18.52 20.14 21.86 23.66 25.57 27.58 29.71 31.93 34.26 36.69 39.25 41.96 44.87 47.91 51.12 54.41 57.95 61.59 65.38 69.38 73.48 77.78 82.24 86.81 91.66 96.63 101.77 107.16 112.67 118.43 124.38 130.46 136.84 143.34 150.02 156.95 164.02 171.38 178.95 186.66 194.8 203.1 211.66 220.54 229.6 239.02 248.68 258.52 268.77 279.23 289.98 301.16 312.55 324.4 336.62 349.08 362.22 375.66 389.52 404.04 418.89 434.44 450.55 467.05

Also here is what Tunercat is saying my MAF Sensor Air Flow vs. Output Frequency table is 1488 TO 11216Hz....LS1 pcm go to 12000Hz I believe.


Ken

[GMC K1500 SC]

Hog on the PPE forum found a good source on brand new Z06 MAF sensors! James B. just got one....there are eight left guys at just $42 each plus $7 shipping!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973957782&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

[GMC K1500 SC]

Completed Vehicle is now for sale:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39997

Ken