Crazy 2WD Low idea

[95_Z71_5.7]

How hard would it be to put the front axel actuator on a relay controlled by a switch in the cab? You could engage the front axel at will. The front shaft would be spinning but the axel wouldn’t be engaged (kind of like the way my truck works right now).

Has anybody tried this before?

[Dixie]

Sounds like a posilock.gp:D

[James B.]

Not good... The rear end alone would never stand up to the amount of torque that it would get in first gear. The drivetrain needs the power to be split in low to survive. You could do it if you had an overbuilt rear like a 10.5" 14-bolt or a Ford 9". Stock you'd be askin' for trouble IMO.

[Dixie]

Originally posted by James B.
Not good... The rear end alone would never stand up to the amount of torque that it would get in first gear. The drivetrain needs the power to be split in low to survive. You could do it if you had an overbuilt rear like a 10.5" 14-bolt or a Ford 9". Stock you'd be askin' for trouble IMO.
I'd buy that if you were hammering it. But this is something I can only see useful for slow going moving around trailers and stuff. 10 bolt should handle that fine. However, If he has anger mgmt issues he could trash a rearend by doing something crazy...gp:read:

[Ryan31783]

Originally posted by 95_Z71_5.7
How hard would it be to put the front axel actuator on a relay controlled by a switch in the cab? You could engage the front axel at will. The front shaft would be spinning but the axel wouldn’t be engaged (kind of like the way my truck works right now).

Has anybody tried this before?

Yup, sounds like my posi-lok, it works great. The best thing about it: it's COMPLETELY manual

[ibthumpin]

thats what was nice about having the manual hubs - you could shift the tcase into 4lo and without having the hubs locked in you were really only in 2wd. Works great for manuvering trailers ect.

I dont see why you couldnt tap into one of the actuator's wires and run it back into the cab, through a switch and then back out to the actuator (or if you could find the wires in the dash harness). But I wonder if that would set a code or cause the light to come on (if there is one for 4wd malfuntions), since the tcase would be engaged but front diff would not.

JamesB brings up a good point, its something to be aware of, but I agree with Dixie as well.

[KLEEN KUT]

Originally posted by Dixie

However, If he has anger mgmt issues he could trash a rearend by doing something crazy...gp:read:

:LOL::LOL:
Siyé

[Luke2kZ71]

Originally posted by 95_Z71_5.7
How hard would it be to put the front axel actuator on a relay controlled by a switch in the cab? You could engage the front axel at will. The front shaft would be spinning but the axel wouldn’t be engaged (kind of like the way my truck works right now).

Has anybody tried this before?

I did that when i had my truck shaft out.... it was fun!!!!

[95_Z71_5.7]

Thanks for your input.

I can only see useful for slow going moving around trailers and stuff. 10 bolt should handle that fine.

I would mostly use it for going downhill (engine braking) and backing up my in-laws STEEP driveway.

I wonder if I could just tap the 4WD fuse located in the dash. It would be really nice if I didn't have to cut any factory wires to make this work.

I hope to make this work before February.

[Dixie]

Any way of replacing the thermal thing with a cable activated something...gp:smokin:

[ibthumpin]

Originally posted by 95_Z71_5.7
Thanks for your input.



I would mostly use it for going downhill (engine braking) and backing up my in-laws STEEP driveway.

I wonder if I could just tap the 4WD fuse located in the dash. It would be really nice if I didn't have to cut any factory wires to make this work.

I hope to make this work before February.
just curious, if you are backing just the truck up, why the need for the low range? Your truck an auto or stick?

You cant do much with the fuse itself - I mean its already in the circuit so tapping into it will not do any good. You have to cut the wire somewhere so you can install the switch inline

[95_Z71_5.7]

Is your truck an auto or stick?

It is an auto. I just feel that I would have more control backing up a steep hill with lower gears. The truck was loaded and I was having difficulty controlling the throttle.

You have to cut the wire somewhere so you can install the switch inline

I wanted to remove fuse and plug in two wires connected to a fuse and a switch. However if I just cut the wire near the fuse, I wouldn't have to run a wire though the firewall.

[95_Z71_5.7]

Out of necessity, I completed this task over the weekend. There is a short someplace in my 4WD electrical circuit that I didn't feel like tracking down. I cut the stock wiring harness and rewired the actuator with stuff I bought from Radio Shack. There are three wires coming off the actuator.

Black - (Ground) - Screwed to the frame using the wire clamp from the negative battery cable.

Brown - (Lead) - Wired to the 'Aux A' power source on the under-hood fuse box. I could have used the positive lead on the battery, but I wanted the power source to use a fuse.

Blue - (on-off) - When you apply power to this wire, after the other two are connected, the actuator engages. When you disconnect the wire, the actuator disengages.

Right now I just have the blue wire switch near the under-hood fuse box. The switch is rated for 30A and has a light indicator. When I have more time I plan to mount the switch in the cab and the light should come on when the actuator is engaged.

It works and I used this weekend :head:. I have complete control over the transfer case and front axel engagement :rocking:.

If you have any suggestions, let me know.

[Luke2kZ71]

cool! that all do you use it for? and tell us if it cause premature wear

[95_Z71_5.7]

As for pre-mature ware, I'm guessing not much. I'll probably only use 2L a few times a year.

I also use it for piece of mind when using 4WD. No longer do I HOPE the front axle is engaged (My stock wiring harness was having issues). When I flip the switch, it engages; complete control. Just like the Posi-Lock (SP?) but much cheaper.:cool:

[danez71]

You asked about replacing the thermal thing with a cable actuated thing.

That is exactly what the orthers are talking about when they "Posi-lok" (sp?)

I actually had the posi-lok on my old 94. While I never had a problem with the thermal actuator it was slower to engage than I wanted.

I loved the 4x Posi-lok and would recommend it
--dan

[LowRed]

when i bought my posi lok i was told that one of the advantages is that you gain a so called 2-lo. where you shift the t-case but dont pull the cable.. i think this is what you are saying. I have driven my old truck like this and not messed up anything. it really helped pulling people out. I could steer while my rearend whipped around. I never broke anything, I had a tbi 350 with no mods and no power and a sf 14-bolt out back, who knows w/ a vortec and a 10 bolt. good luck:devil: