Swapping Brake Pads on Disk Brakes

[RedZ71]

*note* this tech article only covers the rear in detail, since in my case my fronts were still fine (which i found after inespection). the fronts are basically the same, but there is a bix giant torx lug to remove, instead of a standard bolt, and the pads are bigger).

well, this was originally something i thought i would not be able to do. 1) brakes are important, you only get one chance to find out if they are messed up, and 2) i dont know much of anything about fixing anything on an automobile.

so throw all that out the window, because swapping brake pads is one of the simplest tasks there is. so, i went to Pep boys, and bought the parts i needed.

fronts: 59.00
rears 29.00
brake cleaner 1.99
4way lug wrench: 12.99

then i went back, and bought a new jack, since my roommates couldnt hold mine in the air at higher than half an inch, and it would just sag down right away.

2.5 ton floor jack 59.00 (larn)
4 ton jack stands 29.00 (larn)

i dont know who makes good stuff and who makes bad stuff, but that larn jack is pretty heavy, and it held the entire back end up just fine. at this point, im still way below what my mechanic (whom i DO trust) charges, which is $260 (130 per axle).

so, to get started, loosen the lugs, then jack it up. i put it on the jack stands because its safer than letting it sit on the jack the whole time

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01477.jpg

once the wheels are off, here are the tools youll need to remove your brake pads.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01478.jpg

pretty simple stuff, 5/8 socket (or maybe it was 1/2... i forget now :) ), 5/8 box wrench, flat head screw driver, and a big *** C clamp.

first up, loosen the bolt at the bottom of the caliper. its on the backside. just on the opposite side of where the bolt goes in, you will see the other part where the bolt bolts to. i held that still with the box wrench, otherwise the bolt will just turn and never come out.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01479.jpg

...and it will be able to just rotate up out of the way. if you want, you can rig something like a coathanger to hold it up out of your way, i just held it up when i needed to get in there.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01480.jpg

the brake pads can then just be popped right out (you only have to wear the gloves if its 38 degrees outside, otherwise just do what you like :) )

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01481.jpg

[RedZ71]

slip the new pads in the same spot the old ones came out of. the pads are all the same, there is no left right, inside outside. just be sure you remove the thin metal thingys (haha, i dont know what they are called) from the outsides of the old pads, and slip them into the same place on the new pads. i used the flathead screwdriver to carefully pry them off, as they were stuck on there pretty good.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01482.jpg

when you swing the caliper down, you will notice that the pusher is too far forward.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01483.jpg

use the big *** C clamp to push the pusher back into the caliper, so that it can swing down. you only need to push it back far enough to swing the caliper down.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01484.jpg

once the caliper is down, replace the bolt that came out in the begining

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01485.jpg

there you go. easy as pie. here is the abnormal wear which was what promted me to change my pads out, from my right rear.

http://www.z71silverado.com/2001z71/truck/dsc01487.jpg

after i got my wheels back on, i started out slowly, just in case my truck didnt want to stop!! the more and more confident i was that the brakes were on correctly, i would stomp on them to smooth them out and set them in. finally i got going fast, and stomped on it hard enought to set off the antilocks, and it came to a quick and stable halt.

ANYONE can do this!!!

[kry226]

:confused: I just did my brakes, but...um... I didn't see the thin metal thingys on the back of the old pads. My chiltons never mentioned them either. Consequently they didn't get transferred to the back of the new pads. I have a 2000, yours is newer. Did mine even have them in the first place? I haven't noticed any bad braking characteristics yet except a slight pulsation even after replacing the front rotors and turning the rears. Did I screw up bad?

[Incredible Hulk]

I had to replace the rear pads on my truck also, the passenger rear wore down badly but the driver side was still o.k.
I did not know about the thin metal plate, I guess I threw them out w/ the old pads. What is their purpose?

[Vince]

http://www.dfwlanparty.com/other/misc/truck/brakes/DSC01477.JPG



I really hope you have chalks in front of both of the front wheels. :eek:

[RedZ71]

Originally posted by 95Tahoe


I really hope you have chalks in front of both of the front wheels. :eek:

actually, i didnt. but, for what it was worth wheni did it, i put it in 4lo, left it in R, and turned it off. hehe, i actually got in it (gently, with it back in 2hi) and fired it, put it in drive to see the rear spin and stop (with the wheels off). it all came to a stop, so i put the wheels on and drove it around.

i was thinking of buying 2 more stands for next time, and putting it up on 4.

[Vince]

Originally posted by RedZ71


actually, i didnt. but, for what it was worth wheni did it, i put it in 4lo, left it in R, and turned it off. hehe, i actually got in it (gently, with it back in 2hi) and fired it, put it in drive to see the rear spin and stop (with the wheels off). it all came to a stop, so i put the wheels on and drove it around.

i was thinking of buying 2 more stands for next time, and putting it up on 4.


Yeah, either that or buy some chalks. They are inexpensive, and much more trustworthy than relying on your tranny to hold it back. Actually will the tranny even hold it back with out the engine running?

[kry226]

Any ideas about the thin metal backings on the old pads? I am really starting to wonder if I did something wrong. Bueller?

[RedZ71]

my new pads came with them, but i left them on the kitchen table, and forgot to use them. its fine to use your old plates. if you dont have them, track them down. (im sure they are important!!)

[kry226]

Well here's the deal. Talked to the guys down at the dealership yesterday and they were very helpful. That metal backing (I'm not sure if it actually is metal) plate is an anti-squeal component. No biggie if you don't have them if you still don't get a squeal. They did however recommend replacing those metal rails on the caliper brackets that the new pads slide onto. He said that those tend to wear and that a new set of pads may tend to rattle if not replaced. Actually, a new set for AC Delco pads comes with the new rails. I think I will tear it all back down today and do it right. I guess you get what you pay for. Hope this is somewhat enlightening.

[CKTA]

Good tech. piece and pictures and I agree w/ everything. Except one thing.....When you push the piston back w/ the C-clamp, keep the old pad on or use a piece of wood to distribute the force of the clamp on the piston. You can bind the piston by just pushing on one side. Just my .02, good job.:cool:

[kry226]

They also make a tool ($4) specifially for pusing the pistons back in. Works very well with no binding. I picked it up at Advance. If you already have a c clamp, I would use it. But didn't, so I bought the cheap (cheaper than a c clamp) tool.

[RedZ71]

Originally posted by kry226
Well here's the deal. Talked to the guys down at the dealership yesterday and they were very helpful. That metal backing (I'm not sure if it actually is metal) plate is an anti-squeal component. No biggie if you don't have them if you still don't get a squeal. They did however recommend replacing those metal rails on the caliper brackets that the new pads slide onto. He said that those tend to wear and that a new set of pads may tend to rattle if not replaced. Actually, a new set for AC Delco pads comes with the new rails. I think I will tear it all back down today and do it right. I guess you get what you pay for. Hope this is somewhat enlightening.

actually, i did find a packet of stuff on my table that i forgot to take outside, ill have to look and see if those brackets were in there too. i do know that the new anti-squeal plates were in there.

the pads that i bought came from pepboys, and they were Raybestos brand. haha and they were RED!!!

[Germanator]

Good deal, how many miles did you have before replacing them? I have 50K on it now, and the dealer that rotated my tires said I was still ok.
I wonder how many miles I can go with em.:think:

[kry226]

I replaced my front and rear pads at about 85k. Honestly, I probably still had 2/3 of pad lining left, but the all rotors were needing turned. While its torn down, might as well replace the pads too. I also recommend using high quality pads if other than AC Delco's. I put cheap semi-metallics on the front and rear and had to re-turn the rotors inside of two weeks. You get what you pay for. Put quality ceramics on rear and OEM AC Delco's on front and am very happy with the results. Especially important, remember to replace all of the extra metal clips, rails, and hardware on the calipers. Easy job, but beware of those caliper bracket bolts. They suck without air tools. :cussing: Good luck.

[HENRY]

Im just over 80k also and will be replacing the pads today or tomorros.

Dang OEM stuff is $178.00!!!

Gmpartsdirect has em for like $76.00 but im not sure if its for both sides?

I think ima do the cheap route and go PePBoys :(

[kry226]

Originally posted by HENRY
Im just over 80k also and will be replacing the pads today or tomorros.

Dang OEM stuff is $178.00!!!

Gmpartsdirect has em for like $76.00 but im not sure if its for both sides?

I think ima do the cheap route and go PePBoys :(

Careful there hos. I went cheap at first. Two weeks later I was redoing it the right way. Cheap pads ate up my rotors like a Ranger destroying an MRE.:read:

If you go with anything besides AC Delco's, stay with Wagner, Bendix, or Raybestos. Good Luck.

[HENRY]

Well i got the best Pep Boys offered, ceramics for about $65.00 (with employee discount).

The weather sucks tho, so ill do it tomorrow i hope.

[kry226]

Originally posted by HENRY
Well i got the best Pep Boys offered, ceramics for about $65.00 (with employee discount).

The weather sucks tho, so ill do it tomorrow i hope.

I think you'll be fine with those.:D

[Joe]

Originally posted by CKTA
Good tech. piece and pictures and I agree w/ everything. Except one thing.....When you push the piston back w/ the C-clamp, keep the old pad on or use a piece of wood to distribute the force of the clamp on the piston. You can bind the piston by just pushing on one side. Just my .02, good job.:cool:

Yep, I use an old brake pad when I do mine.

Mine are due now too :bawl: I must say, they last about twice as long as my previous generation trucks did :D

Nice job on the article :)

[kry226]

Originally posted by gmcjoe


I must say, they last about twice as long as my previous generation trucks did :D

Nice job on the article :)

Yeah, the rotors wear out long before the pads do.

[jerseymikem]

when you push the caliper piston back in to fit the new pads do you have to open the bleeder valve?... isn't bad to push the fluid back into the abs system or do you not need to do so...

[HENRY]

Originally posted by jerseymikem
when you push the caliper piston back in to fit the new pads do you have to open the bleeder valve?... isn't bad to push the fluid back into the abs system or do you not need to do so...

Never heard of it being bad for the system, but if it is, ive never encountered any problems in the many, many, cars and truck ive done this to.

[jerseymikem]

Thanx a lot for the help... One other thing, to get the rotor off, is there anything i have to unbolt, or does it just slide off, mine seems to be on pretty tight (it's a 4wd)...

[socalbanshee]

Hey guys sorry i'm just posting this but i just saw this. I am a machanic/manager at a shop my dad owns and yes the thin metal plates that go on the back of the pad is just for noise issues. They also make a special grease that we also use on the back of these plates and all contact points and it really seems to help. I would also like to recomend bendix pads there a very good pad for the price and for all those that are looking for the best i would recomond ebc pads there awasome.

[deadlyspork123]

when you compressed the calipers you really shouldnt have just pushed on the piston like in the pic you should have put something between the c clamp and the piston. this isnt really good for the caliper.

[Loeryder]

Originally posted by jerseymikem
when you push the caliper piston back in to fit the new pads do you have to open the bleeder valve?... isn't bad to push the fluid back into the abs system or do you not need to do so...

On older ABS systems this is pretty much mandatory.
I have a Typhoon which HAD the first generation of GM's (Kelsey Hayes) 3 channel ABS. Its now disabled.

If you push old fluid back into a 10 year old ABS unit it can have negative effects on all of the solenoids and motors that make up the master unit.
Call Midas and I guarantee you they do not open bleeders just to push the piston back into the caliper. Then ask them how many customers come back with their ABS light on a few miles later.
Midas will then charge the unlucky victim upwards of $1000 to replace the ABS unit that they damaged.

I myself just feel better opening the bleeder, let the extra and also dirty fluid out, then top off the fluid and do a fresh bleed.

[c5truck]

the metal things are shims, sometimes you should reuse them. I always do. I also put some anti noise spray on the pads. not the rotor side. dont forget to use threadlocker on your bolts

[Z71ny27]

All bets are off about these pads lasting in salt country boys.

The Chevy dealer here goes as far as to remove the caliper brackets, sandblast them, repaint them, then they use Sta-Lube synthetic caliper grease on all the slide points of the pads. What happens up this way is the caliper brackets rust, and the rust expands the stainless slide clips on the caliper brackets, and bind up the pads which makes em wear out fast.

Another good product to substitute for the Sta-Lube is Permatex synthetic disc caliper lube. It comes in an 8oz can with brush, or you can get it in little 1/2oz packets. I don't have the part # on hand but I'll try to find it.

Another thing. GM has a TSB for the right hand rear pad accellerated wear issue. Basically they say to put mudflaps on the truck and it stops it?? I dont know how but thats what they say to do.

Basically, if there's no rust on the caliper bracket, and the area where the pads slide in the caliper are lubed and the pads can move easily but not rattle around, and the caliper isn't bound up in any way, then the brake pads will wear normally.

Oh ya, USE WHEEL CHOCKS!!!

Hope this helps

[Diesel Dually]

Good thing my Dually has Mudflaps since like 9K !!

[RedZ71]

fixed all the broken pic urls.

[2BIGCHEVY]

:read: Nice tech article but you forgot to do one thing. After reinstalling the calipers and driving. Pop your hood unscrew the brake fluid resevior and jump in the cab and tap the brakes a few times. This helps relieve the pressure that is built up from when you push the piston back in. My .02. :read:

[Bob T]

Good tech article; one more thing. When you are pushing the piston back in, watch the fluid level in your master cyl. If it overflows it will make a mess and eat paint. If the level is getting too high, you can suck it out with a turkey baster or something. Might want to wash the turkey baster before Thanksgiving comes around again.

[00silverado5.3]

I just installed new brake pads. There are a few things different on the front pads than the back.

1. There are 2 calipers that you will need to compress, instead of 1 caliper on the back.

2. You will need a "Torx 55" socket end to undo the bolts. The one we got from Oreily's was a piece of sh*t. Try the one from auto zone it worked better.

My rear right brake pad showed the abnormal wear yours did RedZ71 I will post pics when I get a chance.

[Beaver Customs]

Those are anti-rattle clips, optional but recommended.
Def, use a piece of 2x4 or leave the old pad in when compressing the the piston (the pusher :D ) back into the caliper. I make a habit of greasing the sliding pins with white lithium grease as well.
Doesn't apply to GM's but if you're ever doing a Toyota or some Fords (Mercury Bougar) do not compress the piston in, some calipers from these manuf. have threaded pistons! In my younger greener years, I spent half an hour "ruining" the rear calipers on a Fiero, you need a special tool that looks like two chopsticks bolted together. Just an FYI for future brake jobs.
Edit: A fiero is a GM :(

[thArf]

great article, but everyone here missed one thing: brakes, like many other components require proper break-in. don't just stomp on new brakes!

remember 30-30-30
30 stops from 30 mph for 30 seconds each, with time for them to cool in-between

they will last longer and stop better if you do this.

[gilkman]

just did this. unbelievable how easy it was.
thanks to all!

[RedZ71]

i submitted this article 1/11/03. one of them is *just now* starting to squeal.

raybestos, for the win!

[jayski]

Not to harp on the great post...
But I would NEVER lift the rear of your truck with a jack under the center of your rear end. You WILL LIKELY create a leak.
Also, as mentioned you shouldn't just push the caliper piston back in without bleeding, but I would HIGHLY suggest you put something like an old brake pad or piece of wood between fo the C-Clamp and the piston. You DO NOT want to push one side of the piston more than the other..

[ipyro24]

One thing to people reading this, you HAVE to lube the caliper slides!!! If you don't the pads can waire un evenly again... About bleeding when you compress, I dont' think that is a issue, I've done it to countless cars with out issues...

[justjoshin24]

Just finished replacing my rear brake pads on my 2000 Z71 5.3L. I had to remove the entire caliper to remove the rear rotors to have them machined. The pads were $55 bucks from NAPA for the premium pads. I had a bear of a time removing the caliper bolts. Even with a 580 food pound impact I couldn't get the bolts to budge. I had to use a 1/2" extension ratchet and a rubber mallet to losen them up. I had to replace all four bolts due to the scarring on the heads. I used the blue loctite to reinstall them. Not too bad of a job if you're not pulling the rotors. If you pull the rotors expect the bolts to put up a fight.

[kenman1717]

Just finished replacing my rear brake pads on my 2000 Z71 5.3L. I had to remove the entire caliper to remove the rear rotors to have them machined. The pads were $55 bucks from NAPA for the premium pads. I had a bear of a time removing the caliper bolts. Even with a 580 food pound impact I couldn't get the bolts to budge. I had to use a 1/2" extension ratchet and a rubber mallet to losen them up. I had to replace all four bolts due to the scarring on the heads. I used the blue loctite to reinstall them. Not too bad of a job if you're not pulling the rotors. If you pull the rotors expect the bolts to put up a fight.

i have never heard of anyone putting lock tight on braking components.

[justjoshin24]

Just wanted to share my experience on replacing my brakes. I own a 2000 Silverado Ext. cab 4x4 5.3L Z71. What prompted me to check out my brakes was an obvious noise when rolling to a stop. It appeared to be coming from the front. I took it in Les Schwab (they usually will check it out for free) they told me I needed to have my rear pads replaced and my rotors turned in the front and rear and my rear calipers needed replaced with rebuilts for $110 each. I told em "no thanks" and drove right down the road to NAPA. I bought their premium pads with new anti-rattle clips a can of brake cleaner and white lithium grease. A grand total of $55 with my corporate discount. I got the truck home and jacked it up and pulled the wheels. I really wanted to pull the caliper off first so I went straight for the Two big caliper bolts. The socket size is an 18mm. I used a long 1/2" breaker bar and a rubber mallet to try and break the bolts free. These are the original caliper bolts torqued to factory specs with Loctite. I could not get those damn bolts to budge for anything. I also used some penatrating lube on them. I finally went down to Sears and bought the best air impact they had for $135 is was rated to 680ft/pd's of torque. Also had to buy some impact sockets for $89 (metric). I got home and I **** you not the impact wouldn't even break those frickin bolts loose. I was finally able to free em' up with the breaker bar and mallet. What a pain in the A** be forewarned. Slid the rotors off and took em down the the local autoshop and had em' both turned. Other than that everything else went smooth. Be sure and disassemble the caliper and slide it apart and clean and lube the pins. Use new springs on the calipers also. A little grease on them doesn't hurt either. I had the uneven wear on the rear pads on my passenger side rear. I suspect it was due to the springs being rusted and the slides were caked with grease. The rig is up and running again and brakes nicely. Keep up the posts and thanks to the author of this thread who inspired me to tackle my own brakes!