Theeeeere Heeere.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tony@air ride]

Upper and lower tubular control arms are available for full size chev and we have our bolt on shock mounts ready for those trucks too!

Tony

[scrapin']

:nopics:

What year truck??

[mood_indigo]

Originally posted by tony@air ride
Upper and lower tubular control arms are available for full size chev and we have our bolt on shock mounts ready for those trucks too!

Tony


pics??
price??
what years??

:cussing: :cussing: you're making not being bagged harder and harder everyday:read: :D

[mood_indigo]

Originally posted by 5-8CHEVY

:sissy: :sissy: Mr.I'dratherhaveabedcover. :rolleyes: :D:tongue:


or a house:cussing: :cussing: you don't remember me telling you wednesday all mods are on hold:rolleyes:

[tony@air ride]

88-98 C-1500.............:D

Tony....

[mood_indigo]

Originally posted by tony@air ride
88-98 C-1500.............:D

Tony....

thank God, you just made my decision to wait on bags that much easier to swallow.:D

[Outlawcrewcab]

:cussing: i need tube lowwers for a 94 3500 mine are all tore up

[scrapin']

Originally posted by tony@air ride
88-98 C-1500.............:D
Tony....

:woo: Now we need pics....and more details. Come on Tony, don't keep us in the dark. Bushings, ball joints, bag ready?

[Outlawcrewcab]

How much for the 94 c3500 i might buy those or i might just powder coat my stock junk

[Outlawcrewcab]

:wtf: for $899 i think i will buy new stock's and powder coat them:scared:

[wannabelower]

I believe 899 includes bags and upper brackets. For just arms says 599.

[Kid_Rock_GTX]

Originally posted by outlawcrewcab
:wtf: for $899 i think i will buy new stock's and powder coat them:scared:

yea its pricy but trust me it is totally worth it! i got everything done upfront and love it! they lookc so much cleaner then stockers and also are nicer and smaller they arnt so bulky like the stock ones

[chvylac]

tony how much for them and the shocks,bags,brakets( so the whole front setup) for my 97 chevy 1500?????

[1badgmc]

Originally posted by 5-8CHEVY

http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/controlarms.asp
Looks like $899 retail. :D

So are they going to be the same price as the 3500 arms?
Use lowered spindles with these, right?
Do these eliminate the rubbing issues from turning full-lock with spindles?
Do they already have the outboard shock mounts like the 3500 arms pictured on that page?

More info. PICS!!! C'mon, Tony!!!! :D

[tony@air ride]

The whole meal deal with upper and lower control arms, bags,brackets, shocks, bolt on shock brackets. is 999.00. The kit with lower control arms is 799.00. The bolt on shock brackets do optimize shock placement so if there is any rubbing it is minimal.

Tony.....

[Jimmy P]

Originally posted by tony@air ride
The whole meal deal with upper and lower control arms, bags,brackets, shocks, bolt on shock brackets. is 999.00. The kit with lower control arms is 799.00. The bolt on shock brackets do optimize shock placement so if there is any rubbing it is minimal.

Tony.....
So what are the advantages/disadvantages of this setup compared to shockwaves?? Im looking to bag in the fall or winter and I was wondering what the differences would be?
thanks alot

[1badgmc]

Originally posted by jimmy p

So what are the advantages/disadvantages of this setup compared to shockwaves?? Im looking to bag in the fall or winter and I was wondering what the differences would be?
thanks alot

Well, if it's anything like the rest of their arms, you can order them to be used with either Shockwaves or CoolRide. Advantages being a truly bolt-in deal engineered to work and the good looks of tubular arms instead of those ugly stamped factory arms. :) :cool:

[Jimmy P]

Originally posted by 1badgmc


Well, if it's anything like the rest of their arms, you can order them to be used with either Shockwaves or CoolRide. Advantages being a truly bolt-in deal engineered to work and the good looks of tubular arms instead of those ugly stamped factory arms. :) :cool:

which setup is better for ride quality and amount of lift?

[1badgmc]

Originally posted by jimmy p


which setup is better for ride quality and amount of lift?

Well, if you want maximum lift, don't get Shockwaves. But if you're after performance, DO get Shockwaves. Of course, you can go with CoolRide to get your lift and then go with the adjustable HAL shocks to have your Shockwave handling. :)

[tony@air ride]

Jason is right on the money.................... again.................:D

Tony....

[Jimmy P]

Originally posted by tony@air ride
Jason is right on the money.................... again.................:D

Tony....
ok sorry for all the questions but let me get this straight
-shockwaves alone are $899
-the tubular upper and lower arms with bags+shocks are $999

seems like the tubular arm setup is alot better deal to me? Are the shockwaves that much better or what?
About how much more lift would you lose with the 'waves? 1"or 2"?

thanks AGAIN!:D

[tony@air ride]

depending on tires size .average is around 1.5"

Tony....

[tony@air ride]

depending on tires size .average is around 1.5". The waves are nice but only if you are a ride quality control freak like me and Jason. If you are just after a good ride quality and maximum lift then the Cool-Ride with arms is the way to go.

Tony....

[Jimmy P]

Originally posted by tony@air ride
depending on tires size .average is around 1.5". The waves are nice but only if you are a ride quality control freak like me and Jason. If you are just after a good ride quality and maximum lift then the Cool-Ride with arms is the way to go.

Tony....
hmm ok one more question...how much for the arm setup but with shockwaves instead of the coolride setup?
edit..one more ..do you still have to notch the frame to lay out with the new arms?

[Jimmy P]

Originally posted by 5-8CHEVY

The arms are made so you wont have to notch the frame. :read:
these things sound better and better by the minute!

[scrapin']

Tony...I know you've answered this dozens of times, but help a trucker out....First, do the new control arms do anything for upper ball joint angle?? I want to lessen the angle they're at when layed out cause with the stock arms, it looks like they are maxed. Second, is the tie rod mounting location the same as stock?? Will I have to notch the frame (for tie rod clearance) to lay frame with 20's?? Third, can they be used with 2600 bags and do I have to use your lower bag mount to attach to the lower arm, or would my current EasyStreet mounts work? And last but not least...are you guys looking to sponsor any trucks that see a good deal of the East Coast show circuit??:naughty:

BTW..currently trying to tuck 245/40/20's, I've already cleared the fender structure, relocated everything that needs it, and am about 2" shy of laying frame cause the tie rods are bottoming out on the frame.:(

[tony@air ride]

Yes they correct the ball joint angles and the length of the arms have been slightly changed to keep the camber from getting way out to lunch. My lowers have the bag mount incorperated into the lower control arm so no need to purchase any others and these arms are built for use with the Firestone 224C bags. Sorry man, we really dont do much with this "sponsoring" gig.

Tony....

[chvylac]

hey tony can you get me a good price on these for my 97 chevy fullsize 1500????????

[sack]

o.k. i know that you have gone through a lot of questions for this and all, but i have a couple if you don't mind. i know they are bolt in and designed to help everything, great! but:

1. are they geared towards raising or lowering(if so will it slam the front with a 2" spindle?)?

2. are they geared more towards looks, performance or both?

3. what about a group discount through this forum(not to sound cheap but normally that's an option with anything)?

Thanks,
sack

[tony@air ride]

The lower arms are built to optimize the front geometry for a lowered vehicle useing air. These arms are also built with the asthetices being very important....... I mean why in the heck would you want to put up this kind of dough for UGLY control arms? You guys wanting a CP should get in touch with Larry and I will see what we can put together...........

Tony...

[neverfinished93]

tony

i have a friend with a 97 4 door tahoe (2wd). he has 22" rims with 265/35 tires. he wants to lay out. will this kit lay? will he still need spindles? what do you guys have for the rear (or what do you suggest)? thanks

[1badgmc]

Originally posted by neverfinished93
tony

i have a friend with a 97 4 door tahoe (2wd). he has 22" rims with 265/35 tires. he wants to lay out. will this kit lay? will he still need spindles? what do you guys have for the rear (or what do you suggest)? thanks

:read: It won't lay without cutting the firewall and cutting into the rear floor.

[neverfinished93]

so if we tub the firewall it will lay? i know we'll have to cut the floor in the rear. thanks

[1badgmc]

Originally posted by neverfinished93
so if we tub the firewall it will lay? i know we'll have to cut the floor in the rear. thanks

Yeah. That's the only way to get it done.

[tony@air ride]

:iamwithst In the rear i would do a weld on parallel four link. You will also need to fabricate a new gas tank X-member because your driveline is going to hit it. In the front you will have to use spindles with the front kit.

Tony....

[sack]

is a weld in parallel four link the best possible for handleing characteristics? would the weld in kits be good? what's not as good about the bolt in kits?

[BaggedC10]

Originally posted by sack
is a weld in parallel four link the best possible for handleing characteristics? would the weld in kits be good? what's not as good about the bolt in kits?



A 4-link is best for ride, handling, and durability. I think ART makes a bolt-on AirBar for your truck, not sure though. :think: