Obs 3" body lift Install [Archive]

quadracr

11-24-2003, 02:27 PM

I installed the PA 3" body lift. All in all it is a very good kit. However the instructions could be a little clearer. I took pictures to document the lift and they can be seen here at the end of page 2

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=0&id=4288502845&start=11

It took me about 7 hours to do it with hand tools and taking pictures. It would have went quicker with a buddy and my air tools. Also use plenty of penetrating oil on all fasteners and bolts.

Feel free to give me a holler if you need any help.

quadracr

11-24-2003, 02:28 PM

Hey boss how about making it a sticky

454ss

11-24-2003, 03:58 PM

Done:D
Thanks for posting it.

taz104

11-24-2003, 06:41 PM

Going to be starting the PA 3" lift on my 94 in the next 2 weeks.
I appreciate the photos...I think they will help.

Were you just adding to the directions then?...on the parts that were'nt so clear when you did the lift?

quadracr

11-26-2003, 09:39 PM

Yeah, just adding to it. They show one black and white grainy photo on the mounting of the park brake cable. The description of the bolts to remove and loosen on the front bumper were confusing to me. I would have written it clearer. It's obvious the people that wrote the instructions aren't technical writers, but I have read worse. The rest of the things are just tips and such. Like I said use plenty of penetrating oil. Also air tools and friends make it even easier.
Good luck with the kit

96chevy_2500

11-27-2003, 02:36 PM

hey I have a 96 and i was wondering about it. Somebody told me its a pain in the *** b/c you have to lenghen harnesses and what would I do about my shifter(5 speed) does it come with a kit for that??

quadracr

11-29-2003, 03:26 PM

I didn't have to lengthen any wiring harness. I just took it loose as shown in the pictures. Also where the harness attaches to the engine at the back needs to be loosened from the firewall. As far as the shifter goes, I can't answer that. You might not need to do anything depending on how the shifter attaches. You'll have to read the instructions for that. I would think if the shifter attaches directly to the tranny, it will just shorten itself by three inches.

taz104

01-13-2004, 10:19 AM

Originally posted by quadracr
Like I said use plenty of penetrating oil. Also air tools and friends make it even easier.

You didn't have to weld the steering extension?
I was under the impression you had to?

quadracr

01-14-2004, 05:16 AM

No you don't have to.
Remove the bolt holding the column together.
force the shafts apart
insert the extension
using the new bolt supplied with the kit and the one you just removed, place them in the holes and tighted to factory specs.

Thats all there is to it. Easiest part of the whole job.

Tracy

taz104

01-14-2004, 08:28 AM

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90075

According to a reply to a posting I started...I was told I had to weld it. Is he maybe talking about "pre vortec" NBS trucks?

Planning on starting either Friday night or Saturday morning, since it's a 3day weekend....just in case I run into some problems.

Might be doing it myself also. :( ...unless my bud is willing to help out...
Don't have air tools, but I have a cordless impact and I know where Sears is! :D

I'll post pics and also let you know how your pics helped.

:FSCrules:

quadracr

01-15-2004, 05:15 AM

Ok after reading that thread, I think he is talking about welding an extension to the shift linkage. This must be an old old body style with probably a 400 turbo tranny and not our newer style. We have a shift cable not linkage that connects the shifter to the tranny. The only linkage we have is for the transfer case and that just gets adjusted if needed. If you have push button 4 wheel drive then your doing even better. The only welding that needs to be done is the 2 metal spacers for the bed. Hell I have had my kit in now for months and I still haven't welded mine in yet.

taz104

01-15-2004, 08:03 AM

Thanks!

That clears things up alot. (I have a 4WD floor shifter)

Bonus! One of my coworkers said he can weld anything that I need done, but I have to bring the truck to him...so hopefully it's nothing that stops me from driving it.
(So I guess he's on standby)
One of my buds is going to help, so I think I'm set.

BL goes on Saturday! :head:

Nuther question. Are the gap guards necessary? $60/set, so is there a less-expensive alternative? :think:

quadracr

01-15-2004, 02:49 PM

Gap guards "aren't" neccesary, but it will look better with them. I don't have them, but I am gonna end up putting something there after I clean and repaint the frame this spring.

taz104

01-20-2004, 11:08 AM

I was delayed 2 days...started the lift yesterday.
With 2 people, we worked for about 9 hours and are 80% complete. (We ran out of daylight)

Still need the front and rear bumper raise, auto linkage, and mount bracket for the Ebrake.

Looking into new body mount bushings while everythings reachable, so might be delayed another day... The stock bushings are pretty shot. ...this is a Midwest truck...

The auto xmsn linkage requires welding the 3" spacer in. Have to talk to my bud about getting it done. I see what you mean about really not needing to weld the bed mounts...they're in pretty tight. I think I'm going to have him spot weld them for reinforcement.

I'll try to post some pics tonight of my progress.

:FSCrules:

quadracr

01-20-2004, 02:55 PM

Sounds like you have a good start. Yoy'll have to take some detailed pictures of the auto shift linkage before and after. Mine had a cable so I didn't have to do that.

I'll probably weld in the bed spacers this summer when I remove the bed to clean and paint the frame.

Lets see some pictures:D

taz104

01-20-2004, 03:43 PM

Just ordered gapguards, rear bumper raise kit, and body bushing set for $200.
They'll be in the shop tomorrow. Going to prep and try to get the linkage welded today.

I'll post some pics on my imagestation account tonight.

EDIT!!!
:damnit: :cussing: Got dark on my way home...pics would have sucked.
I'll get some pics tonight(1/21)...since I will be getting off work early to pick up my parts.
I'll holler when they're up and viewable!

:head: :FSCrules: :head:

taz104

01-22-2004, 10:55 PM

Installed new body mount bushings. Working on the bumpers, but have to wait for help. My bud welded the xmsn linkage, so I'll get a pic of that too.

Pics are posted http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287931931

...don't know how to post the pics in the forum.

Planning on being 100% complete tomorrow. Gap guards, bumper lift and all.

TGIAC (Thank God It's A Chevy!!!)

EJKelly3

01-02-2005, 01:19 PM

When i put on my lift, i didnt use the e-brake bracket, there was enough slack so i didnt have to dick with it

coolpick87

01-19-2005, 07:54 PM

Wow, thank you, I am going to be putting a Body Lift on my 96 in a couple of months.

Yukoneer

01-19-2005, 10:57 PM

http://www.yukoneer.com/bodylift

goldlifter

08-05-2005, 08:30 AM

doesnt look all that bad, thanks!

TIM222

09-30-2005, 10:41 AM

uplandhawaii

01-17-2006, 03:45 PM

http://www.yukoneer.com/bodylift
Great write up and pics Yukoneer! I just ordered my 2" PA lift, glad I found your post!

91extended

02-07-2006, 09:47 PM

hey TIM222 do you have any pictures of your truck? mines the same truck and the same color and i have a 3in bodylift to put on and was considering black rims but I woudl liek to see some first. thanks man

Blackfoot

03-24-2006, 03:10 PM

Just picked up my PA 3" BL for OBS RCSSB today, gonna start tomorrow if it's not raining. Looks like I'm all by myself on this one. I'll keep you updated.

Blackfoot

03-26-2006, 01:25 PM

This BDS install link was helpful for whatever my PA kit too, includes pics

http://www.bds-suspension.com/pdfs/9319-9320.pdf#search='1988%20chevrolet%20body%20lift%20fan%20shroud'

Blackfoot

03-27-2006, 12:40 PM

Very easy to install the 3" body lift - I was impressed with the simplicity, however the PS instructions were really crappy. The BDS kit instructions helped...

Bigtruck4x4

03-31-2006, 06:26 PM

Man, now i have to get a bodylift, it looks to good afterwards:weld:

98350ss

05-13-2006, 01:25 AM

Nice mod *bump*

hcole623

05-14-2006, 01:12 PM

I just ordered my PA 3" body lift this morning. I have a 97' Silverado Ex-cab 2wd 4.3L. Im under the impression that it is strictly bolt-on and there is no cutting or welding involved, am i wrong? I have all air tools and a few mechanically inclined buddies (along with myself). Should this be any problem for us to do?

taz104

05-15-2006, 10:54 AM

I can't speak for the 2WD 4.3L, but my 94 4WD I needed to weld an extension into the shift linkage. For the bed spacers, I just bolted them in. No welding there.

With the links to pics in this thread, you should have a pretty good idea what is involved.

Good luck!

marvin willis

05-15-2006, 11:05 AM

i hope you read this in time you dont need to buy rear bumper lift kits if you take the bumper off you can raise the place where it mount to and bolt the bumper back on i did it to mine and it didnt take no time at all

93blacktruck

05-15-2006, 11:33 AM

it will not take any welding at all, just keep in mind that you might have to extend you filler neck to your gas tank, and if it is a manual trans. your shifter may sink abit, but you have captain seats it measures just the right height to where you will not have to raise your shifter..post some pics after the install..

hcole623

05-15-2006, 03:02 PM

Alright no welding thats a relief.

Thanks marvin willis i havent ordered the rear brackets yet, but according to your post i dont need to. maybe you could give me a little more info on how to raise the rear bumper for free.

And about extending the filler neck, how is that done?

glmatt715

05-15-2006, 05:04 PM

I put the 3" PA body lift on my truck - a '97 K1500 with the manual transfer case. When I first did it I just wedged the metal blocks in under the bed and didn't weld them. They were in real tight. About 1000 miles later I was going around a turn and heard a big clatter - one popped out. I thought I could get away with no welding but no such luck. Those need to be tacked in - takes somebody who knows what they're doing maybe 5 minutes.

glmatt715

05-15-2006, 05:16 PM

Two other things about the body lift - one potentially serious.

1. After my body lift I started seeing spots of transmission fluid on the ground underneath where the truck had been parked. My truck had the tow package with the in-radiator transmission oil coiler. The body lift caused the radiator to go up, and the hard line bringing fluid from the transmission into the radiator must not have had much give to it. The nut connecting the line to the radiator cracked and started leaking tranny fluid. After a trip to every parts store in town and to the dealer to try and find a replacement nut for the aftermarket radiator, I ended up just installing an external cooler and bypassing the in-radiator cooler entirely (which isn't a bad thing to do anyway). If I hadn't found the leak in time that would have been bad news for the transmission.

2. This is just kind of annoying: there is a rubber boot around the steering column that seals off the interior of the truck from the engine compartment. Ever since the lift, this keeps coming off. It's not a big deal, but every couple weeks I feel hot air blowing on my shins and have to get under the hood and push it back in place.

Just a couple things for yall doing body lifts to keep in mind.

taz104

05-15-2006, 06:04 PM

Alright no welding thats a relief.
...guess your 2WD must be different... Quadracer mentioned something about a change from rod -> cable for shifting, but wasn't sure on what year that was done.

And about extending the filler neck, how is that done?

The PA kit comes with an extension tube. Not too hard, just make sure you tighten the hose clamps....first time I filled up after doing my lift, it looked like my truck lifted it's leg at the gas station. :lol:

hcole623

05-24-2006, 09:15 AM

okay i plan to start mine tonight and finish it sometime tomorrow, any last suggestions/warnings?

taz104

05-24-2006, 10:26 AM

If you have buds helping you, air tools to get the job done (helps w/ the rusty bolts), and as long as you don't run into any bolts that you have to cut out....

You can knock it out in 4-6 hrs. Don't forget to use locktite on all the bolts. Have someone observe your lines and everything when you are jacking up, in case you forgot to unhook something.

Oh...and I know it's tempting, but try to save the beer for when you are doing easy things, like putting the grill back on. :D

:cheer:

hcole623

05-24-2006, 11:04 AM

Oh yeah, it will be tempting especially since im gonna have about four friends over to help. And I have all the airtools and a nice covered carport so things should go smoothly

taz104

05-24-2006, 11:07 AM

If all 4 are mechanically inclined...I'd knock it down to 3-5 hrs.
Then you stand back, drink a cold beer and enjoy your new look!

....oh...and then start shopping for bigger tires! :rocking:

hcole623

05-24-2006, 11:24 AM

If all 4 are mechanically inclined...I'd knock it down to 3-5 hrs.
Then you stand back, drink a cold beer and enjoy your new look!

....oh...and then start shopping for bigger tires! :rocking:
yeah they each have their skills and weaknesses, a couple have done body lifts before, and ones just really strong. awwww man why'd ya have to remind me about the tires, and to
make it worse i just bought mine

hcole623

05-25-2006, 11:01 AM

alright guys im in the middle of doing my lift. we have the whole front end torn off and the bed is already lifted. we are having trouble undo-ing the parking brake cable. any suggestions? also a member posted that you didnt need the rear brackets to lift the bumper, how do i lift it without the brackets?

hcole623

05-25-2006, 11:01 AM

taz104

05-25-2006, 11:12 AM

What are you having trouble with?
I'm assuming your 97 is similar to my 94:
There should be an adjuster nut. Hold the solid piece and loosen the adjuster nut. If it doesn't come easy, get some penetrating oil...spray the crap out of it(PB or something similar) and let it soak in for 1/2 hour or so. Should turn somewhat easily after that. If not, you have to resort to heat.

Pics of what you are having problems with would be helpful also.

I don't know about the bumper lift. I used the kit.
Maybe the guy that mentioned that will post pics for you also.

uplandhawaii

05-25-2006, 12:46 PM

I don't know about the bumper lift...

If I'm not mistaken you can use the stock brackets but redrill them or flip them to move them up.
I used a kit too on my 97' Tahoe to relocate them up so I'm not 100% sure of re-using the stock brackets.

hcole623

05-25-2006, 01:41 PM

marvin willis

05-25-2006, 01:56 PM

i didnt have to move the parking brake cable just loosen it you will find the adjustment infront of the back wheel against the frame

taz104

05-25-2006, 04:19 PM

alright, half of the cab is lifted. we still cant lift the drivers side because im still having trouble with the parking brake cable. cant get enough slack to pull it out the clip. ill try some PB lube and see if that helps because loosening the tensioner is a PITA.

If you can't get it loose, it may be time to buy another....that much rust...may break on you someday. If you can get it semi-loose, you can try putting a pair of vice-grips on and pulling on it that way....just remember....it has to go back on.

Oh and how did yall get your fuel filler neck off the truck to cut it and extend it. Ive loosened all hose clamps but still no dice.

When you open the door, there's 4(?) screws that hold it to the bed...then you loosen all the hose clamps.

I bought my truck in OH...3rd owner...it was originally purchased in Michigan, out of the Canadian plant. My BL took 2 days, due to all of the die grinding and primer, to clean up the rust.

hcole623

05-25-2006, 06:00 PM

Everythings done! Looks awesome, well except for the back bumper. I dont have any brackets and im not sure how to raise it without them. Any help on that is all i need.

hcole623

05-27-2006, 05:55 PM

An alternative to the expensive gap gaurd set can be found at home depot, "black vinyl carpet runner" Found it near the back at my local home depot store comes on a 3ft wide roll, just figure about how many feet you want like $1.80/ft I think I used 5 feet. cut out the sizes I needed and attached it with some small sheet metal screws. Nice thing about this is you can make it look how you want.

material

5 ft vinyl carpet runner
12 #6 sheetmetal screws
2 4" zip ties

Total = about $14

went to home depot and they looked at me like i was stupid when i asked about black vinyl carpet runner. then i walked around aimlessly in the store for almost an hour looking. anyone have any of this on their truck or could tell me what it looks like? maybe a picture?

taz104

05-27-2006, 07:15 PM

Everythings done! Looks awesome, well except for the back bumper. I dont have any brackets and im not sure how to raise it without them. Any help on that is all i need.

Before and after pics???

:nopics:

hcole623

05-27-2006, 09:23 PM

ill get some pics up bright and early tomorrow its too dark now. plus i wanted to wait to take pics until i had my pro comp light bar on, which it is

quadkid

05-30-2006, 01:56 PM

Hey guys, just thought I'd share my pics as well. I just recently put my 3" PA Master Kit in and took a bunch of pics.

Link to my CTW installation gallery (http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines.com/mygallery.ten-id-5875-album-18299)

I did the install almost completely by myself in a little over 10hours. The main hold up was the e-brake cable was seized up so I had to wait for my dad to come home. I dont trust myself with the torch near the gas tank, haha. If it werent for that I could have had it done in 8 hours tops.

hcole623

05-30-2006, 05:19 PM

well you asked for pics so here they are, oh yeah theres alot of em'

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0015.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0014.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0013.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0012.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0011.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0010.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/oneloudG20/IMAG0008.jpg

The Sasquatch

07-23-2006, 11:02 PM

starting mine in the morning

taz104

07-24-2006, 11:25 AM

hcole....the pics aren't showing up... "moved or deleted" :dunno:

quadkid, nice, clean install! Sure looks easier on your 98 than it was on my 94. I had to have the shifter rod welded. Luckily I read the instructions and planned it out, so my bud was available to weld it for me. :weld:

*Just a note to others....with some power tools and a friend, you can knock out the lift in less than a day, assuming you don't run into any problems.

Good luck on your lift Sasquatch!

:cheer:

The Sasquatch

07-25-2006, 07:41 AM

thanks. yep, would've been done yesterday, but the dadgum rain slowed us down, kept having to wait for it to quit, all i gotta do is the bed lift today and i'll be done, hell hardest part is undoin the grill assembly, i'll post some pics when i'm done.

taz104

07-25-2006, 10:24 AM

Trust me...I know all about the weather issues.

114* on Saturday 110* on Sunday...Yesterday after work it was 95* at 6:30pm!!!

(I can already hear the AZ guys waiting to chime in. :wink: )

**Edit** Oh...I'm with you on the grill...it's just tedious...all the screws and trimming the shroud and all....

The Sasquatch

07-25-2006, 10:54 AM

can't get the inside bumper brackets to line up with the outside ones. the outside ones are even with the fenders where the need to be. the inside brackets are inside the frame horns and can't raise up any higher. dang't i'm confused.

taz104

07-25-2006, 01:49 PM

The Sasquatch

07-25-2006, 11:16 PM

sorry, had a der der derrr moment there. i finished it this afternoon. wasn't the easiest thing, but dangn't i got er did!

GoHard

07-31-2006, 03:35 PM

Im in the middle of my body lift.Was wondering if i had to do anything to my shift linkage since its a cable?
Also how tight should i take the cab mounts and bed?

The Sasquatch

08-01-2006, 11:56 PM

all you have to do for your shift cable is break loose the tab that holds it to the floor and push some slack through the floor so that it doesn't pull tight when your raising the cab. you will have to loosen your t-case linkage though, connected to the shift lever on the t-case. make sure you tighten it back good when you re-hook the linkage back up. as far as your mounts go, i guess to factory torque specs. i just hit em with the impact gun, and they were good to go. check em in about a week to make sure they are all still tight.

bhwakeboarder

06-13-2007, 10:31 AM

Can someone post this as a sticky in "offroad"

CANUK

06-20-2007, 02:19 AM

Anyone here make their own rear bumper brakets for a 3" body lift...im looking for dementions and info to make them...

jcunn78

07-06-2007, 06:21 PM

Anyone still have their original bolts? I've got a 3" body lift that I want to remove. Need the original front bumper brackets also. Once I have it all back to the original state I will give up the body lift parts to anyone interested (free). Thanks for any help.

92WhiteBlaze

07-07-2007, 12:06 PM

hey jcunn I'd be interested in the parts that come off if it will be a complete kit. What brand/how old are they?

jcunn78

07-07-2007, 01:11 PM

The body lift is on a 96 K1500 with ext/cab and short bed. It won't include the rear bumper brackets. It was on the truck when I bought it last year so I'm not sure what brand it is.

If you do want it, and if I can get the factory bolts and brackets, I will be giving the lift away for "free" minus shipping. So if you are interested and can do without your truck for a day or two let me know.