NBS Big 3 upgrade

[94FlamdS10Blazr]

Originally Posted by Z71IN'

At what point is this upgrade necessary?? What kind of systems are you guys running?

it helps even trucks with factory radios to run better and get better gas mileage

[cajundragger]

well I got about 1200rms of class d power and 600rms of class a/b...and it makes my stuff dim like hell with the big3, but I'd guess about 1000rms of class d or 800rms of class a/b will require big 3.

[bigblue92]

can you do this with a regular battery? like the ones that dont have hook ups on top like the optimas do?

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by bigblue92

can you do this with a regular battery? like the ones that dont have hook ups on top like the optimas do?

Yes, you just need to replace the OEM battery terminal lugs with GM adapters like this from Stinger:

[rigamortis]

how exactly does this increase mileage?

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by bigblue92

can you do this with a regular battery? like the ones that dont have hook ups on top like the optimas do?

you need the battery terminal like what was posted above, I sugget napa though cause their so much cheaper there...

[LiLHooT]

Originally Posted by rigamortis

how exactly does this increase mileage?

I would assume this would only apply to older vehicles. More electricity = better spark = better combustion

The newer vehicles with the computer controlling everything

[BlameCanada]

Originally Posted by LiLHooT

I would assume this would only apply to older vehicles. More electricity = better spark = better combustion

The newer vehicles with the computer controlling everything

Your assumption is incorrect.

Better flow, with less resistance, will improve everything. Works from air flow, to water flow, to electrical flow.

Otherwise, the assumption that an aftermarket air intake system, wouldn't help mileage, power and fuel efficiency, because the ignition timing, spark, and fuel consumption is all managed by the computer as well.

Less resistance will hlep the battery charge better, will allow the alternator to work that much less, and thereby last longer, and will also improve the life of other electronic components.

I've had unbelievable good battery life in all my vehicles, because I've always replaced the factory wires (charging, ground, and starting) with large diameter cables (from whatever is lying around), and my vehicles have comparatively started quicker, lasted longer (starter, battery, alternator, etc), and with less draw.

All around, it's just a better fix because you get so much out of it.

* Fewer bulbs burn out as well.

[03 on dubs]

i've replaced the one from the alternator to the battery. but after seeing this thread, i think im gonna redo everything this weekend. cause im still dimming with a red top and a 5 farad.

[LiLHooT]

Originally Posted by BlameCanada

Your assumption is incorrect.

Well thanks for the ohms law explanation... My assumption was based on this as where the RVC is more prevelant in newer vehicles.

Document ID# 1745519
2006 Chevrolet Chevy C Silverado - 2WD


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Subject: Volt Gauge Fluctuation - keywords cluster electrical excessive fluctuation gage generator intermittent IPC operation volt voltage voltmeter wire #PIT3331A - (12/16/2005)



Models: 2005-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2005-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2005-2006 GMC Sierra, Yukon Models

with RVC




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment that their voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their full size pickup / utility vehicle.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Starting with the 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities, are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system. This system turns off the alternator when it is not required in order to improve fuel economy. The alternator will turn back on when additional voltage is required. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems which usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

[BIZILL]

oh, shizzle my nizzle. everyone just do the damn thing. and do it to all your vehicles. period. case closed.

[goinglow]

what frame bolt is everyone using to upgrade the ground wire from the battery on ths NBS??

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by goinglow

what frame bolt is everyone using to upgrade the ground wire from the battery on ths NBS??

I used a big frame bolt under the battery, sorta near the left foglight.

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by x6369x

I used a big frame bolt under the battery, sorta near the left foglight.

me3....it was a random one I remember that I could easily get too...

["Big Daddy" MudBug]

As everyone that has a stereo system should know, ground your grounds as close as possible. the shorter the better. I'll be doing this later. I don't know why I hadn't thought about it before...duh!!

[ccreddell]

Originally Posted by 03 on dubs

i've replaced the one from the alternator to the battery. but after seeing this thread, i think im gonna redo everything this weekend. cause im still dimming with a red top and a 5 farad.

If your dimming with a red top and a 5 farad, man, you've got some problem somewhere. Either your running a little alternator with small wires or you have and electrical problem somewhere. The Big 3 will help what you have become more efficient, but it wont make up for a 1200 watt system and a 50 amp alt.

[87vertgt]

Originally Posted by x6369x

Battery positive to alternator,
Battery negative to chassis/frame,
Engine block to chassis/frame

And yes, this is an addition to the existing wires.

Let me understang this? AM I supposed to leave the old wires in?And install newer wires with them? thanx

If so, wont it take alot of space?

[94FlamdS10Blazr]

replace the wire with the newer bigger stuff

[96Burbo]

Originally Posted by motokoozie

Elemental Designs has Big 3 Upgrade Kits.
www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

I see their kits don't come with the battery terminals as shown in the thread starters photos. Aren't the terminals necessary?

I plan on getting 4 gauge wires, and they want $20 for the terminals on edesign. WIll these terminals suffice :
http://www.efunctional.com/pbt4n.html

[94FlamdS10Blazr]

Im sure it would be cheaper and easier to just buy some bulk wire and a few connectors and do it yourself, screw a $35 kit