NBS Big 3 upgrade

[ATMINF]

Can anyone tell me how much wire they used total and then give the break down per wire please?
Exactly how much was the;
1. + battery to alt=ft??
2. Block to body = ?? ft
3. Neg- battery to Body = ??FT
I have heard several different total lenghts (10ft-20ft total) and just wanted to know what the break down was. Thanks so much for the info.
Thanks

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by ATMINF

Can anyone tell me how much wire they used total and then give the break down per wire please?
Exactly how much was the;
1. + battery to alt=ft??
2. Block to body = ?? ft
3. Neg- battery to Body = ??FT
I have heard several different total lenghts (10ft-20ft total) and just wanted to know what the break down was. Thanks so much for the info.
Thanks

Originally Posted by x6369x

List of supplies:
1) battery positive to alternator (approx. 4’),
2) battery negative to chassis (approx. 4’),
3) engine block to chassis (approx. 5’),
4) 4 ring terminals,
5) heatshrink (to cover ring terminals),
6) flex loom (I didn’t use any because the Stinger wire was so pretty).

The # of ring terminals depends on the type of aftermarket battery terminaly you use.

If you want more accurate measurements of the lengths, run pieces of string or wire from point A to point B, then measure it with a tape measure.

[ATMINF]

Thanks for the heads up!

[x6369x]

Just thought I'd update the post with some changes I made a while back ...

I changed the alt pos to battery from red to blue wire (this also gives a good view of the ground from the alt bracket to the firewall ground) ...


Then added 2 runs of 1/0 from the pos side post to 2 circuit breakers (the 140A/160A were only temporary, they are now both 200A) ...


Here you can see the 2 1/0 neatly routed through the stock door sill channels ...

[04SilveradoMykk]

Originally Posted by x6369x

Here you can see the 2 1/0 neatly routed through the stock door sill channels ...

I did the same thing to run power to the power inverter for my PS2, but over on the passenger side... I'll probably use the driver side for power to the amp when I do subs

[DRK]

There's a lotta good info in this thread, but I saw some glaring safety problems in some of the replies.

I come more from a car audio background than a fullsize Chevy one, and I've only had my 02 'Rado for 2 years. However, I've had plenty of experience when to comes to car audio, and I know that it's VERY important to put an inline fuse on the positive link. The positive factory link you are supplementing is fused for a reason. If you don't fuse the additional positive link you are putting in, you risk burning your entire vehicle to the ground if your electrical system shorts out.

Would you rather replace a $2 fuse if you get a short, or the entire vehicle because you were too lazy to wire in a $10 inline
fuse setup?

Also, in the case that your sound system's capabilities far exceed that of your alternator (entirely possible for any of you who might compete in SPL competitions), a properly sized fuse on that link will protect your alternator from working harder than it should in case of massive over-draw.

Just my $.02, I'm new to the forums and look forward to some interesting discussions!

[VortecZ]

I'm getting ready to do this big three thing when I install my system. Any of you guys that think the fuse is necessary, what size fuse should it be?

[DRK]

Originally Posted by VortecZ

I'm getting ready to do this big three thing when I install my system. Any of you guys that think the fuse is necessary, what size fuse should it be?

The size fuse you put in should be the max rated amperage of the wire you are using, which will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 225 to 325 depending on the size and quality of the wire you are using. If you are using 1/0 gauge, it's probably in the neighborhood of 300 amps, so put in a 300amp fuse.

[Vaquero]

ok, so ic I run the big 3, should I just find the factory grounds and run parallel to them?

[dag4566]

Anyone done this to a diesel yet? Is it neccesary with 2 batts?

[packge33]

If you make the size of the fuse equivalent to the size of the wire, then you are not really using the fuse correctly. You should make the fuse LESS than the wire, so it will blow in an emergency. I would think the fuse should be right above the rating of the amp, so if their is a problem, it will blow...

[AlwaysFollowed]

Just did the big 3 with 4 guage, should i be fusing the wire from the battery positive to alternator and if so, what amperage of fuse?

[4wdC5]

Just wondering, are any of you guys running a power capacitor as well?

[DRK]

Originally Posted by packge33

If you make the size of the fuse equivalent to the size of the wire, then you are not really using the fuse correctly. You should make the fuse LESS than the wire, so it will blow in an emergency. I would think the fuse should be right above the rating of the amp, so if their is a problem, it will blow...

Good point, though I always just assume a fairly low max current for the wire, so it ends up working out the same.

But yes, subtract 10-15 amps from the maximum current the wire can handle for the fuse.

But you can't just put the fuse for the amplifier's max draw, because the wires you are replacing/supplementing are for the entire vehicle. They aren't just for the amplifier. I agree, the power wires for the amps should be fused just above the amp's max current draw, but these are upgrades to the electrical system as a whole, not just the audio equipment.

[Marcos]

I just did this on my OBS, makes a big difference. I highly recommend this mod...

[hawaiianstyle]

Totally lost after trying to ready along with this thread. My take on this is that all I need to do is add two wires to make the flow better in my new 2007 Vortex Max. I'm only going to put in an electric fan from Flex-lite. So will it benefit me by doing the Big Three? Just curious and maybe down the line a new head unit, subs, & amp.

[nebraskaz71]

I ddi the big three recently on my obs with 0/1 gauge and put in a 270amp alt while I was at it. Only required about 6ft of wire for power to alt, neg to ground, engine to chassis, and i also did cab to chassis. I used a 300amp fuse between battery and alt because thats what my wire is rated at and so far with the stereo fully cranked all lights on ect ect it doesn't drop below 14.5 on hot days ;)

[rolrdz]

nebraskaz71 do you have any pics of the way you ran your wires, is that 0/1 gauge, welding wire

[nebraskaz71]

I can get some pics....... i used audio power cable

[rolrdz]

Yea bro that would be very help full, if you can post them up or send them to rolrdz1@yahoo.com, thanks bro