NBS Big 3 upgrade

[DJFriar]

So I'm thinking of doing this, but I had a quick question:

Can I use both the top and the side terminals on my battery, or do I have to use only one or the other? I own a OBS if it matters.

[blackbonnie]

you can use both terminals it makes no difference

[neonhomer]

I got another question.... is there a way to increase capacity to the "jump start" point? Could splitting the "new" alt line and connecting them to the jump point do it, or would it make a difference??

Another question... where you run the feed from the alt on the 5.3? The alt is located on the passenger's side on these motors.... I think.....

[neonhomer]

Nevermind.. I went out and looked at it yesterday, and saw that there is a single, 8ga wire going from the alt to the jump point. So I decided to upgrade this a little...

I replaced the 8 ga wire with a 2ga wire. Not really for the size, but because it was cheaper to make my own cable than to buy one. My local parts place didn't have any 4ga, 12" cables. However, they did have 2ga cable by the foot, and 2ga copper connectors. I made the cable to length, soldered on the connectors, and put it all back together...

I measured my voltage drop across the original cable. I was losing about 1/10th of a volt. With the new cable, I am only dropping about 1/50th of a volt (2/100th) Not bad for a $5 upgrade. Now to upgrade some of the grounds....

[redsierra]

Where is the fusible link that has been mentioned? Is it the cable from the alternator to the jump block?

Also, I have a body lift on the truck which entails a small extension on the ground strap. Can it be replaced with a longer heavier cable?

[neonhomer]

The fusible link is the cable between the alternator and jump block. Putting a new cable between the jump block and the alt effectively eliminates the fusible link, so I removed it.

Yes, you can use a little longer ground strap. You can probably get away with using the same size, just longer. However, if you are going to do the Big 3 upgrade anyway, just make it bigger and longer!

[redsierra]

Originally Posted by neonhomer

The fusible link is the cable between the alternator and jump block. Putting a new cable between the jump block and the alt effectively eliminates the fusible link, so I removed it.

Yes, you can use a little longer ground strap. You can probably get away with using the same size, just longer. However, if you are going to do the Big 3 upgrade anyway, just make it bigger and longer!

So what all did you replace with heavier wire besides the fusable link from the alternator to the jump block wire?

Is it OK to totally remove ground strap (mine too short) and add new one from that point on the firewall to the alternator mount above the power steering reservoir OR should I replace the one that is on the fire wall with heavier wire to the same attachment points AND and the new one from the firewall to the alternator mount?

By the way, I am installing a Tuff Stuff chrome 8237 200 amp alternator that puts out 100 amps at idle.

Thanks

[neonhomer]

I am not sure on everyone else, but I removed it entirely. I now have a 2ga wire there.

With the ground, as long keep the same points, you should be okay... like firewall to engine, firewall to frame, engine to frame, etc etc... If it were me, I would make a longer one for the same attachment points, and the new one as well.

I am going to be upgrading to the 145A unit as soon as I can lay my hands on one.

[BigTruckDriver]

by the way, I am installing a Tuff Stuff chrome 8237 200 amp alternator that puts out 100 amps at idle.

Thanks[/quote]That 8237 part number comes to a 145A output at 164.99 from Jegs. I was looking at a 200 amp alt for 169.00 dollars, dont know the specs though. http://www.motorcityreman.com/cs130-200-so.html

[redsierra]

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

That 8237 part number comes to a 145A output at 164.99 from Jegs. I was looking at a 200 amp alt for 169.00 dollars, dont know the specs though. http://www.motorcityreman.com/cs130-200-so.html

Sorry it is an 8237C for the 200 amp. The 200 amp Tuff Stuff is more that the one that you are looking at becuase it is chromed, but I can't remember how much. I think that the 200 amp is over kill, but oh well. The main reason that I got it is becuase it is chromed, so I figured I might as well bump up the juice at the same time. Should look good in this:

[BigTruckDriver]

Originally Posted by redsierra

Sorry it is an 8237C for the 200 amp. The 200 amp Tuff Stuff is more that the one that you are looking at becuase it is chromed, but I can't remember how much. I think that the 200 amp is over kill, but oh well. The main reason that I got it is becuase it is chromed, so I figured I might as well bump up the juice at the same time. Should look good in this:

NICE!!!

[neonhomer]

Uh oh... I just thought about something.... I was reading through the upfitters guide looking for info on the aux battery (bought the tray today) and found this:

"The All New C/K is equipped with a Remote Positive (+) Jump Starting terminal which is located behind a red plastic cover near the
engine accessory drive bracket. This terminal is intended for jump starting only and should NOT be used by upfitters to obtain battery
power. Three fused studs, however, are available on the Underhood Electrical Center and, if available, may be used by upfitters to obtain
battery power. If the battery is remotely mounted (other than in the engine compartment), the ‘sense’ circuit in the generator regulator
shall be used. The sense circuit consists of a 7.76 OHM 1/4 watt resistor connected in series between the ‘S’ terminal of the generator
and the B+ terminal of the battery."

So I am now wondering if bypassing/removing that 8ga wire from the alt is going to be an issue now...

[redsierra]

Well, got 'er done over the past couple nights. The chrome Tuff Stuff Performance 200 amp alternator, WranglerNW dual battery kit with relay, and Optima Yellow Top battery is installed along with the "Big 3" upgrade. I used nice flexible high end fine strand 4 guage wire (red and silver for cosmetics). I also added a fuse between the alternator and the battery. I left all of the original wiring and grounds in place.

It is too late now, but I think that I should have gone to 1 or 0guage with the high output alterator. In researching the "Big 3" pretty much everyone said that 4guage is plenty. Of course all of the runs are very short. What are your thoughts.

Also, could someone give a detail explanation on how to check to make sure that the "Big 3" is doing it's job. I believe on check is to check resistance? Again, a detailed explantion would be great (I only have a digital meter).

Thanks for everyone's contribution to this thread.

[bajakid2]

Anypics of how to do the big 3 on a 2007 NNBS??
Thanks -travis

[BassBaller5]

Originally Posted by bajakid2

Anypics of how to do the big 3 on a 2007 NNBS??
Thanks -travis

the exact same way as every other vehicle in the world

[redsierra]

Originally Posted by redsierra

It is too late now, but I think that I should have gone to 1 or 0 guage with the high output alterator. In researching the "Big 3" pretty much everyone said that 4guage is plenty. Of course all of the runs are very short. What are your thoughts.

Also, could someone give a detail explanation on how to check to make sure that the "Big 3" is doing it's job. I believe on check is to check resistance? Again, a detailed explantion would be great (I only have a digital meter).

Anyone?

[92CHEYENNEon22s]

Originally Posted by redsierra

Anyone?

What I like to do is check voltage before the big 3 with the engine on, in the cigarrete lighter socket. Make sure the testing leads don't touch each other. Put the red pen from the DMM to the center of the cigarrete lighter socket and the black pen to the wall of the cigarrete lighter socket.

I also check it at the battery just for giggles.

Then I do the big 3 and check the voltages again.

Today I ran a piece of 4ga from the alternator(+) post to the battery(+) post and a piece of 4ga from the alternator ground bolt to the battery ground bolt on the block. The voltage went up from 14.20v to 14.61v

Tomorrow I'll do the battery ground to firewall. I'm debating if I should also make a 4 ga run from the battery ground to the amplifier grounds behind the seats. Voltage takes the path of least resistance, so if I have a ground cable from the battery, the amplifiers will like it better.

[ChevyChevelle70]

Originally Posted by Supa_c

www.weldingsupply.com for cheap 1/0 wire and terminals.
Doesnt get any cheaper...
Name brand wont make any difference here.
If you like nice looking wire then by all means splurge on it.
It wont offer anything other than that.
Big 3 is a cheap way to cure dimming.

WHat exactly do I need to buy here? Where do I put the fuse and where do I get that from? Thanks!

[MIZ71]

Here's a place with a pre-made kit, if that helps anyone.

Color of your choice...

http://www.racinglab.com/hyper-groun...rolet-015.html

[Dropkick13]

Does anyone have pics of where each wire was connected for an 06? I noticed it's different than the truck used in this thread. My factory ground runs under the engine somewhere for instance.