NBS Big 3 upgrade

[x6369x]

My example is from my NBS truck, but this will work for any vehicle. You just have to carefully measure the wire lengths, and figure out how to route the wires.

The purpose of the BIG 3 upgrade is to improve current flow, thus diminishing voltage sag. This is an upgrade/addition to the factory wiring, and not a replacement of the factory wiring. This is not a cure all for dimming headlights, but it's a start. Other recommended upgrades to be used in conjunction with the BIG 3 upgrade are deep cycle batteries (Optima Yellow Top) and high output alternators.

I ended up using some extra 0 gauge wire that I had laying around from previous installs, but 4 gauge will do. For my system, I used Audiopipe battery terminals, Stinger HPM Series 0 gauge (red and silver), and Stinger Expert Series 0 gauge ring terminals.

List of supplies:
1) battery positive to alternator (approx. 4’),
2) battery negative to chassis (approx. 4’),
3) engine block to chassis (approx. 5’),
4) 4 ring terminals,
5) heatshrink (to cover ring terminals),
6) flex loom (I didn’t use any because the Stinger wire was so pretty).

I would estimate the total cost of supplies to be $50-100, depending on the wire size/color and connector type. If you don’t care about how the wire looks, look into using welding wire:

PICS:
The red (+) goes to the alternator +. The silver (-) goes to a chassis bolt under the truck:

The red (+) comes from the battery. The silver (-) is connected to the engine block just above the PS fluid reservoir and goes to a factory ground location on the fire wall:



4/0 welding wire (courtesy of Rick/idbl_Fanatic):

[x6369x]

I don't have any SPL #'s to confirm that it works or not, but I do notice that my headlights don't dim as bad as compared to stock.

Everyone will tell you that this is one of many electrical upgrades you can do, and possibly the cheapest upgrade you can do, besides ...
deep cycle battery (like Optima),
HO alternator

[Supa_c]

www.weldingsupply.com for cheap 1/0 wire and terminals.
Doesnt get any cheaper...
Name brand wont make any difference here.
If you like nice looking wire then by all means splurge on it.
It wont offer anything other than that.
Big 3 is a cheap way to cure dimming.

[snuffalupagis]

Total newb question...are there any downsides to upgrading electrical wires to 0 gauge, especially safety concerns?

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by snuffalupagis

Total newb question...are there any downsides to upgrading electrical wires to 0 gauge, especially safety concerns?

Well, 2 out of the 3 wires are grounds, so that won't cause any saftey concenrs.

The OEM wire from the alt to the pos terminal of the battery isn't fused, so I don't think adding a bigger run of wire would make much of a difference if that wire shorted. For that wire to short, you'd have to get in a major front end collision anyways.

[fox_forma]

are you using the 4/0 welding wire to go to your amp for your system? Just curious cause i need to upgrade to a larger gauge wire for my system and no one in my area actually has 4awg stereo wire that i can just get by the foot.

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by fox_forma

are you using the 4/0 welding wire to go to your amp for your system? Just curious cause i need to upgrade to a larger gauge wire for my system and no one in my area actually has 4awg stereo wire that i can just get by the foot.

There's a big difference between 4/0 and regular 4 gauge. Which one are you referring to?

I am running 2 runs of 1/0 from front to back.

[fox_forma]

i was more or less curious about the wires you ran to the amp cause it said welding wire in the pic, but i got the correct wire i needed today anyhow and plenty of it so i can hook up everything and do the BIG 3

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by fox_forma

i was more or less curious about the wires you ran to the amp cause it said welding wire in the pic, but i got the correct wire i needed today anyhow and plenty of it so i can hook up everything and do the BIG 3

Ahh, the pic of the 4/0 welding wire was only an example.

[denmason]

Just finished my BIG 3 UPGRADE!!!
Everything went well and very easy. I haven't received my new 200 amp alternator yet but I though since it was a nice day I might as well do the wires. Started up the truck and noticed my meter was reading 13.6 instead of the usual 12.3 that it has been reading. Adjusted my headunit and when I shut the truck off........... I noticed I didn't get the big THUMP from my sub... YIPPIE!!!
I think this upgrade is well worth the time and effort to do. Only took a little over an hour.

[Bigdrumma22]

Could someone better explain the Big 3 a little better. What wires you need, where they go? You said it was addon, right? Not replacing anything??

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

Could someone better explain the Big 3 a little better. What wires you need, where they go? You said it was addon, right? Not replacing anything??

Battery positive to alternator,
Battery negative to chassis/frame,
Engine block to chassis/frame

And yes, this is an addition to the existing wires.

[Bigdrumma22]

Originally Posted by x6369x

Battery positive to alternator,
Battery negative to chassis/frame,
Engine block to chassis/frame

And yes, this is an addition to the existing wires.

What about on older vehicles? Can it harm anything? I'd keep my positive running to the starter, but then add another going to the alternator? I understand the grounds won't hurt, but can you explain exactly what adding the positive will do?

[stocktires]

What about useing the stinger side terminals, would they work if I wanted to replace the factory wire?

[motokoozie]

Elemental Designs has Big 3 Upgrade Kits.
www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

[x6369x]

Originally Posted by stocktires

What about useing the stinger side terminals, would they work if I wanted to replace the factory wire?

Because the stock wires are normally wrapped up in the factory loom with other wires, I don't recommend replacing any of the stock wires.

[94FlamdS10Blazr]

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

What about on older vehicles? Can it harm anything? I'd keep my positive running to the starter, but then add another going to the alternator? I understand the grounds won't hurt, but can you explain exactly what adding the positive will do?

on older vehicles it might help to give an old alt some newer life making it easier for it to charge and it might actually increase gas mileage from the coil making more power
in newer computer driven vehicles it can keep the CEL light off, help mileage, increase part life, help the stereo system, etc

[Bigdrumma22]

Originally Posted by x6369x

Battery positive to alternator,
Battery negative to chassis/frame,
Engine block to chassis/frame

And yes, this is an addition to the existing wires.

I know you said earlier that you didn't have SPL #'s, but do you have any other proof of this upgrade actually doing what it's supposed to (i.e. higher voltage readings, better mileage, etc.)? I do want to try it, but I don't want to do it just because everyone else is doing it. You know what I mean??

[cajundragger]

Originally Posted by Bigdrumma22

I know you said earlier that you didn't have SPL #'s, but do you have any other proof of this upgrade actually doing what it's supposed to (i.e. higher voltage readings, better mileage, etc.)? I do want to try it, but I don't want to do it just because everyone else is doing it. You know what I mean??

heres my proof.....my truck used to drop down to 9 volts, now it doesn't seem to go much lower than 10.5...it may not seem much of a difference but for someone who is running alot smaller system than I am it is a world of difference.

[94FlamdS10Blazr]

mine used to go as low as 11.5 hitting, now maybe 12.8. I also added about 1.5 miles to each gallon on the highway