Fiberglassing Sub and Center Console enclosure???

[Loki]

First of all, here's a basic overview of the project that i'm starting in my garage tonight, i just thought i would ask a couple of things first of.

- I'm building a dual chambered upfiring ported enclosure for my 2 12" L7's. it's going to tie into the the center console that is going to have all sorts of goodies built into it like my air guages, switch panel, cupholders, one sealed 8" sub enclosure firing back for mid bass, my component speakers, and i'm still trying to figure out if i'm going to make an accessable storage compartment for it.

- When Fiberglassing i'll be using a cotton t-shirt material sheet to stretch over the frame of the enclosure. should i add the matting to the inside of the enclosure...only reason i ask is because i want this to be smooth as possible, and don't know if i'll be able to reach all the way inside some of the crevaces. I should be able to form it decent if i apply the matting on the outside as long as i sand it properly. i have tubs of kittie hair bondo as well as the good ole red bondo in the garage, and i now tons will be used to get the perfect shape.

- I'm going to be glassing the bottom of the whole enclosure. so it will all share one single bottom. The first questions lies with piecing everything together. The amps will go in the middle between the chambers. When i do the inner chambers should i use MDF to form the chambers then seal it closed with fiberglass, or should i build the box totally out of fiberglass? i'm thinking build individual sub enclosures then put them into the truck to mold the enclosures to the floor that i'm building. Only problem with that is wiring.

- I'm really in need of some suggestions. I can do a couple of things i'm sure. glass the bottom of the enclosure and secure it to the floor and build an anchoring system for the main enclosure so that it doesn't slide around in the truck. or i can build the center console seperate from the sub enclosure...(The latter of which seems to be the easiest, but i was really wishing to make one big piece for show.) I'm still in the design phase for the rear, but i pretty much have the whole center console portion of the box designed.

- For the whole enclosure i was wondering if doing a 1/2" MDF Skeleton Frame would be sturdy enough, or if i should panel certain areas. The only portions i really see that will have be flat are the spaces for the amps, and caps. possibly even the switches. Any help/suggestions on this is appreciated. Hopefully some of you guys have had a little more experience with this than myself.

- I'll be updating with pictures and road bumps as i come to them. I may have to take a break in the project to go to thailand, but i'll be back and ready to work.

[Smithers]

ok lemme see where to start.....
when i built mine, i didnt use matting on the inside. im pretty sure i could take a hammer to it and it still wouldnt break. just make sure you put a few coats on the outside of the cloth.
as far as i can tell, using mdf to form the chambers would be easier than just fiberglass.
as for doing it all in one piece, the only thing i can tell you is that you only want to do this once. If you do it in seperate pieces and decide you arent happy with it, youre boned. do it once, and do it the way you want it.
the 1/2 mdf will be plenty strong, most of the integrity will come from the fiberglass anyways.

[Exalted512]

your questions got kind of lost in all that, but ill see if i can answer all of them.

1. You dont need matting on the inside. Youll want to do about 7 layers of mat. Doing a layer of pure resin between each layer isnt a bad either. When youre done with the mat, put 5+ layers of resin on top of it...If you have a lot of dips and grooves, add more. If you dont,then 5 will do. After you do that, start sanding. It seems like this is the first time youve fiberglassed. The better you get at it, the less bondo youll use. Also, cut the mat in small pieces to prevent air bubbles...air bubbles are a bitch. Dont mix your resin to hot, if you mix it to hot, it has a very real chance of catching on fire.

2. I would do all the flat parts with mdf. Fiberglass is not as strong as mdf on straight surfaces.

3. 1/2" MDF should be fine, 1/2" cabinet grade birch plywood would be better. It doesnt cut as nice as mdf, but its stronger.
-Cody

[Loki]

thanks for the responses fellas...i've heard of a couple ways to apply matting...one being to lay down the resin then put the matting over top of it while it's still a bit wet, then another layer of resin on top of that...i also hear you should tear the fiberglass matting...not to cut because the uneven strands seem to mend better together if you tear it as opposed to cutting. another method is to find just the fiberglass strands and apply it by blowing it on the resin but that doesn't really seem like the best method for my application. as far as mixing it...are you talking about the temperature, it's pretty cool here right now, so i don't think i'll have a problem with the temperature. also does resin dry faster in high or low temperatures? Thanks again fellas

[addiction2bass]

ill be glassing my own under bench seat next week hopefully...
my first fiberglass job.... should be a learning experience.LOL

but what i say is if you do the 2 boxes seperatly.... you can always bolt them together than then fiberglass the joints into a nice curve so it looks 1 piece later on when your sure your happy with both!

i was going to do a center console as well but hardest things ive seen is doing the front of the console and making it look like it belongs in the truck!
thats the main thing thats holding me back from doing it!

[Smithers]

when he said "mix it up hot" he meant not to add to much hardener.

[Loki]

Originally Posted by Smithers

when he said "mix it up hot" he meant not to add to much hardener.

oh yeah...i've been briefed thoroughly about that i've been doing my homework for months on this stuff. i've read more on ford forums than anywhere else. but when i get mine started, i'll be keeping a log good or bad to share on here. it's definately going to be interesting. i had a delay in my plans tonight...i was going to start on the back, but turns out that one of the aquariums downstairs leaked all over the dining room floor so i'm tending to that. 55 gallons on the floor will really suck if i don't get this all cleaned up.

[ibthumpin]

Originally Posted by Loki

as far as mixing it...are you talking about the temperature, it's pretty cool here right now, so i don't think i'll have a problem with the temperature. also does resin dry faster in high or low temperatures? Thanks again fellas

"Hot" refers to the ratio of catalyst to resin. More catalyst (hardener), the quicker it sets up and it generates heat in doing so. you'd have to have really hot mixes and many layers to worry about spontaneous combustion.

Also, multiple coats of resin only add weight without adding structural strength - the ridgidity comes from the interlocking fibers and/or the weave of the cloth.

Make sure you do this outside or with alot of ventilation.! Get plenty of latex gloves - the resin tends end up everywhere I use super cheap paint brushes to spread the resin out (I buy 'em by the box from harbor frieght - called "chip brushes").

[Loki]

i just ordered about 20 2" wide brushes at 75 cents a piece. i'm going to this fabric store wednesday to get about 10sq yards of fleece. i think this will be very strong. i plan on standing on this thing when it's done, because if i can't stand on it, it won't be hard enough to support the power my subs will want to push. i have a couple boxes of gloves a box of spare respirators for my painting mask, goggles, lots of acetone, thinner, resin, hardener, matting, and more than enough tools to get the job done. router, dremel, saber saw, etc...i just can't wait to start.

[Exalted512]

i prefer to put a coat of resin, then lay the mat down while its still wet. Ill do three layers of mat at a time, let it dry, do 3 more.

tearing is better
-Cody

[Exalted512]

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

thats a good site to read through before you start as well
-Cody

[civicslayrx]

1.Matting over cloth.
2.Like someone said above. Use mdf on as many of the flat surfaces as possible. Mdf is stronger than fiberglass on straights.
3.I would do indiviual enclosurses with mdf. In my experence mdf sounds better than glass but thats just me.
4.Good luck, and remember This thread is worthless without pics ( can't find the smilie lol)

[Loki]

Originally Posted by Exalted512

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

thats a good site to read through before you start as well
-Cody

Thanks for that sight cody...good reading as well...a lot of the information i get from the internet is redundant, but it's good to hear over and over again, because i'm sure once i get this project going, it will come back to me and be stuck in my head.

i've done a whole lot of reading on this, and i'm ready to start laying down the flooring...i'm just trying to debate wether or not i want to make circle ports or rectangle ports like i currently have in my box. the rectangle ports make this thing hit hard, but it looks like it would be hard to do in my truck if i am going to glass over the enclosure. i want the ports to shoot forward towards the front of the cab. Do you guys think i can dual port each chamber? i don't know how that would sound. I was thinking dual 3.0" diameter ports for each chamber facing forward. I don't know if anyone has done this before. looks like i'm going to have to use some imagination on this one

instead of making my own rings for the L7's i ordered some precutt MDF rings from selectproducts.com


I figured out how i'm going to anchor this thing to the truck too...which is a big concern of mine with my current box as well...i'm going to use the slots on the rear cab wall and glass in the hooks that the back seat used to secure itself to the wall. that way when i install the enclosure it will slip in. i'm also mounting 3 bolts to the floor thru the floor of the box (not in the sub chambers) for more security. 2 on the front sides, and on in the middle in the front. reinforce the underside of the truck with a 2" square 1/8" sheet of steel that will be sealed with some silicone to the underside of the truck to prevent any of the road elements from entering the truck. I'm sure this all sounds easier than it actually will be. i'll get it figured out though i'm sure.

going back to the design program now to get some bugs worked out...i might have a rough draft of the design up later this afternoon. just the amp and sub enclosure for now though.

[Bostonian Fats]

Originally Posted by Loki

one sealed 8" sub enclosure firing back for mid bass, my component speakers,

i'd rethink this part of it. that 8 will either be useless because the subs will drown it out and if it doesn't it will kill your soundstage. i guess i don't understand where the comp set will go.

[Loki]

Originally Posted by Bostonian Fats

i'd rethink this part of it. that 8 will either be useless because the subs will drown it out and if it doesn't it will kill your soundstage. i guess i don't understand where the comp set will go.

I've heard that as well, and i have been thinking about this. I might just run some 6.5" midrange instead and do some door pods for the components. I was thinking of running the components angle'd up towards the driver/passenger seat under wear the cig lighter currently is. but i'm not sure how this will sound.i would like some fairly bright sounds, and i don't know where i should mount them, so it's either, front door pods, or possibly in the "C" pillars. any suggestions on that?

[addiction2bass]

for the port im gonna be runnen 1 6inch aero port. ;)
hopefully ill get that port and my fiberglass SOON!!!!!!!
o gptta start estimating my box specs preaty soon!

[Bostonian Fats]

Originally Posted by Loki

I've heard that as well, and i have been thinking about this. I might just run some 6.5" midrange instead and do some door pods for the components. I was thinking of running the components angle'd up towards the driver/passenger seat under wear the cig lighter currently is. but i'm not sure how this will sound.i would like some fairly bright sounds, and i don't know where i should mount them, so it's either, front door pods, or possibly in the "C" pillars. any suggestions on that?

to get stereo sound you'll need your left set to the left of you and the right set to the right of you. you could do doorpods and cram an 8 in there if you're willing to mod and build out the panel. A-pillars and kick panels are good spot for tweets, however, since you want loud-a-pillars will do better and will allow you to have a high stage without toying around with angling the kicks.

[Loki]

I'm not exactly sure what i want to do now...thinking of doing some door pods for the components, and maybe an extra set of tweets behind the half doors near the roof line. i like brights all around so the lows don't drown everything out. I'll go pick a couple good sets of mb quart tweets this weekend...I'm still trying to figure out what type of mids i want to run. i'm pretty set on getting 5.25" and 6.5" mounted in seperate areas. maybe kick panels for the 6.5's and the components in a pod. I'm looking for the amps now...

[Loki]

well i just put in an order for a couple sets of components...1 set of 213 and a set of 216 mb quarts. i just opted for the referance series at this time, but i'll upgrade to the q series for the 5.25's later...i just don't have the money right now.

am also looking for a new amp for the subs...can't decide yet. but it looks like the components will need at least 75watts rms per set because i know mb quarts demand a lot of power. this won't be a problem with the 4 channel i'm picking up friday. i have a guy bring it down from sac on a distro run, so it looks like all i need now is a nice distro block and a sub amp. i'm going with a 1.0 fd cap for now to see how that works.

i think i am also getting a new head unit. and when i get back from my overseas trip, it looks like i'm going to have to get a processor as well...i've decided where i'm going with the 5.25's and .75" tweaters...they will be in the a pillars, and looks like i'm going to be mounting the 6.5's and 1" tweats in door pods. i'm going to do a couple of test runs to see where i'm going to point them, but looks like aiming them just over my head will give me the best soundstage up front.

the reason i am going with mb quart, is that these L7's are really loud, and i need something to even them out.

i'm looking for a good deck with a high pre-out for the subs to so that my amp doesn't have to work so hard. anyone know of a good HU with a 16 band eq high sub pre-outs that does mp3/wma/cd/cd-r?

i picked up some goodies from a local installer today, and i'll be going to another place tomorrow to get some more stuff. I am in need of new carpet, so i think i'll do that while i'm tearing into my truck. need to find a good place to get a stock set of carpet and jute padding

[addiction2bass]

what kinda fiberglass you gonna be using?

i just got my assorted glass afew min ago. problem is im not sure which type to use.....
this stuff is like no typical glass patches ive seen when i was a kid and helping my dad work on a patching some corvettes.LOL
this stuff is weaved realy thick! i got a bunch of this first one and fewer and fewer the finer it gets.







this is the typical stuff i worked with a long time ago.... never the weaved stuff. but i wonder how much resin this stuff is gonna suck up and even how many layers to put down with it.

now i gotta go to wally world and buy a ton of cheap brushes,roller, gloves, and of course resin... ;)
hopefully ill be able to start tomorow on mine