fuel gauge pegged

[trickedout420]

ok its late its driving me crazy and im tired of trying to figure out what it is...well i was swapping in my new cam tonight and went to fire the truck up and the fuel gauge pegged way past the full mark what causes this?

85 k10 single tank

[noJeepshere]

No ground.

The ground for the fuel guage circuit is on the back of the engine block. Oh yeah, do the rest of your guages work?

[trickedout420]

Originally Posted by noJeepshere

No ground.

The ground for the fuel guage circuit is on the back of the engine block. Oh yeah, do the rest of your guages work?

yea everyone of them. where about on the engine block?

[noJeepshere]

Which truck is it? It seems they are on different spots in every truck. On my 81 K5, the ground is on the passenger head at the back of the engine. On my 99 Yukon, it's near the same spot, but on the block.

[Swearingsailor6]

I had that happen on my 86 K10 Aux tank...it worked great after I swapped the new tank in, then all of a sudden about 200 miles later, I started it up and the aux tank gauge pegged, but when I click the toggle for the primary tank it works great....Im guessing it is just one of the wires coming from the sending unit that came unhooked.

[trickedout420]

on my 85 k10. i guess ill start looking for the engine ground

[GreaseDog]

i've found quite a few at the frame rail right by the tank.

[1974ChevymediC]

Originally Posted by GreaseDog

i've found quite a few at the frame rail right by the tank.

yep. about 8 inches long from sending unit to where it attaches to the frame.

[Swearingsailor6]

yea, i found the problem on mine, the wire from the frame to the sending unit came apart. I had spliced it with a connector, and I guess it bounced off. I haven't gotten a chance to fix it yet, but I touched the ends together it worked good. this time I am going to splice, then put one of those heat-shrink thingys on it.

[NovaMan]

Originally Posted by Swearingsailor6

this time I am going to splice, then put one of those heat-shrink thingys on it.

That's about the best way to do it.

[billyrb]

also on the ends, use one of the washers that bite into the metal as they make for a better ground.

[modular93fox]

that wont help you if the metal is not free of rust and crud... it will just promote heat on each of the little tips that makes itermitant contact with the chassis ground. either way, prep the area well and you will be just fine.
clint

[trickedout420]

it wasnt the connection at the frame. its the connection from the sender tot he wire that goes ti the frame it broke off. so looks like ill have to shell out some money for a new pickup/sender

[1974ChevymediC]

Originally Posted by trickedout420

it wasnt the connection at the frame. its the connection from the sender tot he wire that goes ti the frame it broke off. so looks like ill have to shell out some money for a new pickup/sender

couldn't you just solder it back?

[modular93fox]

Originally Posted by 1974ChevymediC

couldn't you just solder it back?

try that, but you might need to go to like a harbortool or northern tool and pick up a 10 dollar butane pencil like torch. the solder will do the trick, but the tip (i'd imagine) wouldnt heat up the metal on the sender enough for it to bond. thus having the torch, that will heat the metal up just fine and then add some solder and wire and you should be golden! try that before shelling out 100 bucks...
clint