bio diesel

[02hoe]

I ran several tanks of it without problems. I was not running 100% bio though it was more like 75% bio and 25% #2. I did not see a mileage increace or any real benefit from running it. Back to #2

[red suburban]

its very true about fuel filters though, i went through at least 5 or 6 within a few months, after that i didnt have any problems.

[1toncrew]

[quote=GetMore]There are three types of "alternative" fuels for diesel engines, SVO, WVO, and biodiesel.

SVO is straight vegetable oil. TYpically Canola oil.
WVO is waste vegetable oil. This is just used fry oil.
Biodiesel is made by processing SVO or WVO. (Actually they can make it from algae as well.)

Even biodiesel made from SVO will make the exhaust smell like fries.

WVO is usually free, but does need to be filtered, and it will build up deposits in the combustion chamber and injectors. It is very thick, so it will need to be heated to run in most vehicles. The filters and heating equipment, along with the possible maintenance required can add to the cost.

So if you process the wvo using one of these do it yourself machines such as azurebiodiesel's kit, you wont have the problems mentioned in the paragraph above?

[dozerboy]

Correct

[1toncrew]

just gotta convince the wife to drop 3 g's
So what is involved to make ok to run this stuff. I know youy have to switch fuel lines. Is that just the rubber and not the hard lines? Is there anything on or in the engine that will need modification? It's a 6.5 T.D. Very interested being I use this truck(89 CC v3500) for about everything I do and 3.11 a gal. is kicking my tail.

Also If im down to say 4 or gal. left in the tank of bio and need to fill up, will regular diesel be ok to put in?

[red suburban]

biodiesel and petroleum diesel will mix with no side effects, its even sold at the pump (if they do in your area) in certain mixes (20/80, 50/50, 100). you will need to replace your rubberfuel lines, but the metal parts are no problem. i made my own processor (an appleseed version) for about 300-350 bucks. consisted of:
1. water heated from the local metal scrap yard (10 bucks)
2. pump, 25
3. about 4-5 valves
4. around 10 ft of 3/4" steel pipe (NOT GALVANIZED!!!! the biodiesel will pick up the zinc in the pipe and carry it into your engine, leaving it deposited in the cylinders, similar to what happens if you use a gasoline fuel tank in your diesel truck)
5. 2 new heater elements (i bought the 120v versions because that was the only outlets i had available where i had mine plugged in)
6. 2 50 gallon oil drums (5 bucks each) one for the restaurant, the other in the truck bed.
7. second pump (to pick up the oil at the restaurant) that runs off of a 12 volt system (150, most expensive part of my system)

[GetMore]

02Hoe, you will not see a mileage increase. As a matter of fact, there can be as much as a 10% decrease, though that is extreme. Biodiesel does have a lower BTU content. The higher cetane and lubricity usually counteract that, so the typical range is 0-5% drop in economy.

1toncrew, I wouldn't bother buying the prebuilt processor. You can make your own for about 10% the cost, as red suburban mentions. Once you have the system up and running you will find that the methanol is the most expensive ingredient, but if you use a heater and a cooling loop you can recover most of the methanol and reuse it. Removing the methanol from the byproduct leaves you with glycerin. You can use the glycerin as soap or fertilizer, or as a parts cleaner. It's also biodegradable, so it is safe.

Boidiesel will eventually eat rubber lines, but there are lines out there that are compatible. I just can't think of the material offhand. I know that VW changed their lines and seals to this material in the early 90's, so my '97 Passat is ready for biodiesel.

[Scrufdog]

GM switched to synthetic fuel lines in the early 90's, safe for biodiesel.

[red suburban]

the general rule on the fuel line replacement is if the truck is 96 or newer the lines are fine if 95 or older they need to be replaced. GetMore is right about methanol being the expensive part of the equation down the road, but its still not even close to buying fuel at the pump. before i made my methanol recovery system i was spending about 75 cents a gallon, after the methanol system, 40-45 cents.

[skivhere]

Originally Posted by red suburban

before i made my methanol recovery system i was spending about 75 cents a gallon, after the methanol system, 40-45 cents.

One of the guys at work was telling me about his dad using the biodiesel in his Dodge. He makes it at home and it costs him about 60 cents/ gallon.

Wish I had a diesel...I would convert my whole garage into a biodiesel refinery...prolly against the law in my area, but oh well!! Ahhh...to have cheap fuel again!

[GetMore]

Here is a link to a site selling processor kits, cheap to outrageously expensive: http://www.biodieselwarehouse.com/

Many people set up the processor in their garage. I'd be very careful if I did that, since methanol is very flammable. You just have to take the proper precautions.

[the moose]

http://dieselpowermag.com/videos/

interesting interviews on biodiesel ... just to stimilate conversation a little

[Lurius]

As for the geling, this is why they usually run a heater system in true biodiesel systems. A great place to get the oil is potatoe chip frying plants, it is supposed to be some fo the cleanest.

-Lurius

[red suburban]

i set up my processor outdoors in the shade and kept the methanol over where i kept the other flamible liquids like the gasoline and oil, far away from sparks/electricity.

[1toncrew]

so how do you get some of the methanol back?

[dozerboy]

never mind

[red suburban]

have to set up a system consisting of 2 tanks, one with the glycerine byproduct and the other empty (at first), that are sealed except for a hose up at the top. heat up the 1st tank that has all of the glycerine in it until a vapor starts to come out of the top (the methanol). the methanol will go to the top of the tank, through the hose into the other tank, the cool and liquify. you dont get all of your methanol back, but i'd say about half of it, maybe a little more.

[Big Angry]

Originally Posted by dozerboy

You have nothing to worry about.

Unless you have warranty issues and you got some in your tank, most dealers are gonna say bye bye. I personally wouldn't do it, but that is my preference.

[the moose]

Originally Posted by Big Angry!

Unless you have warranty issues and you got some in your tank, most dealers are gonna say bye bye. I personally wouldn't do it, but that is my preference.

just do it after warranty is over.

[GetMore]

Originally Posted by Big Angry!

Unless you have warranty issues and you got some in your tank, most dealers are gonna say bye bye. I personally wouldn't do it, but that is my preference.

Use B20 or lower and don't tell the dealer, and you should be fine.

I don't advocate lying to the dealer if you do something to damage the vehicle, but B20 will not do any damage, while they might decide to claim it is the culprit.

In other words, just don't give them an easy excuse to deny the warranty.