HID upgrade...the right way!

[D-BoB'91]

BLOWN91350SS:
Hope this helps...

1)The closer to the front edge of the headlight housing the better. The reason for this is to keep as much of the width (of the beam pattern) as possible. When you start moving it back in the housing, the sides will start to interfere with the beam pattern. You would lose some width, and possibly some foreground too. As far as ABS glue...NO! The bolts hold the projector in place and offer a LITTLE room for adjustment. I'm afraid the glue would not be strong enough to hold it in place.

2)Well I got rid of the factory mounting system, therefore the factory adjustments are history too. You can adjust the bolts holding the projector to the housing (minimal adjustability) or you can adjust the whole headlight with the method in post #71 using the new bracket system I fabricated.

3)I think we discussed this up in Post #89...but yeah you can use the OEM housings with the fluted lens, you will just lose some of the light output quality. And the aftermarket housings are what causes them to stick out past the grille, I even tried the original brackets with them and no luck...that's why I made my own.

4)I'm sure there are other projectors out there, but it all comes down to size. The Chevy headlight housings are rather small and most projectors are rather large...I went with the TSX's because they fit nice and look great. There is a link in post #24 that has dimensions of some of the other projectors out there.

I believe the easiest way to do this retro is to start with a set of aftermarket projector headlights, trash the crappy projector, and mount in the HID projector. It looks clean, saves time, and has amazing results.
Thanks for the questions and feel free to ask more.

[BLOWN91350SS]

Originally Posted by D-BoB'91

I believe the easiest way to do this retro is to start with a set of aftermarket projector headlights, trash the crappy projector, and mount in the HID projector. It looks clean, saves time, and has amazing results.

Yea, I was thinking about this model possibly. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-98-CHEVY-SILVERADO-1500-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHT-89-90-92_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ003QQitemZ 130162033833QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[neevnav]

Yeah those are identical to the ones I'm using for mine, and I think that atv_freak used.

[BLOWN91350SS]

Have you converted them yet? Post some pics when you start the work. Wouldn't mind seeing the back side of the housing and what the geometry looks like though. Don't know if you can post a couple pics or not?

[neevnav]

Haven't done the retro yet. I've got everything except the projector housings, but they should be here next week. I'm using TSX projectors, BMW ballasts and Osram bulbs.

[BLOWN91350SS]

Can you take some pictures of the back side of the aftermarket headlight housing and maybe a top view?

[BLOWN91350SS]

Actually I think I found a couple pics of these headlights in ATV_freaks thread. Looks like he used the ones I was looking at.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/2804737-post1.html

[atv_freak]

Yep, those look like the same ones I'm using. I was impressed, and surprised, with those because they have glass lenses. Just be careful when you put em in the oven to get the silicon softened up, make sure you leave them in long enough so when you pry them off the glass doesn't crack!!!

[D-BoB'91]

Originally Posted by atv_freak

Yep, those look like the same ones I'm using. I was impressed, and surprised, with those because they have glass lenses. Just be careful when you put em in the oven to get the silicon softened up, make sure you leave them in long enough so when you pry them off the glass doesn't crack!!!

Did you finally get everything sealed up and aimed and everything?

[atv_freak]

Yep, for the most part. I still need to find a different container to put the ballasts in. I just went to walmart and found some tupperware and it was either to big or just a tad to small, so right now I'm rocking some huge tupperware. Though, I was reading over on hidplanet about it not being the best thing to have the container completely air tight because of heat reasons. What do you think of getting something like this?

http://www.outerwearsracing.com/

And just put on of these over the top of a container. I would think it would be pretty effective for keeping everyday water out.

As far as alignment goes, I used my roomates mustang and made sure I didn't blind him. But it is still really low so I think I'm going to go up a bit and see what happens.

[D-BoB'91]

Yeah I'm thinking about using a 2 part epoxy to waterproof my ballasts. My father-in-law is an electrical engineer and uses this thermally conductive epoxy that you mix up and pour directly into the housing (right on the circuit board) and it seals everything up but still lets it dissipate heat. No need for plastic containers

[atv_freak]

Is that that really expensive stuff that nasa uses (I think there was a thread on it on hidplanet). But at $150 a quart or something crazy like that it is kinda out of my price range...

[D-BoB'91]

Originally Posted by atv_freak

Is that that really expensive stuff that nasa uses (I think there was a thread on it on hidplanet). But at $150 a quart or something crazy like that it is kinda out of my price range...

Yeah it's similar to that, but I have no idea what he pays for the stuff I won't need that much so it probably won't cost me too much

[BLOWN91350SS]

Originally Posted by atv_freak

As far as alignment goes, I used my roomates mustang and made sure I didn't blind him. But it is still really low so I think I'm going to go up a bit and see what happens.

As far as the alignment thing, the FMVSS spec is the 25 ft distance and 2-3" lower than you bulb center point measurement I believe. The lights are also supposed to be aimed slightly to the right from center. I used to work at a company that made auto headlights but only for about 6 months so I did not become an expert on all the specs. I could find out though.

[D-BoB'91]

Originally Posted by BLOWN91350SS

As far as the alignment thing, the MVSSA spec is the 25 ft distance and 2-3" lower than you bulb center point measurement I believe. I used to work at a company that made auto headlights but only for about 6 months so I did not become an expert on the specs or anything.

Yeah that's how I aimed mine...I believe he aimed his like that because it is lifted so much that even 2-3" lower is higher than on a standard height truck, and he would be blinding people.

[neevnav]

So I have a dilema now. My projector housings arrived today, but the bottom where the mounting bracket attaches to the housing is broken. Now I've got everything to do my retro, but this is a problem. It's not a problem if I'm going to fab up my own angle iron mounting brackets, but I don't know if I want to go to that trouble. How hard was the angle iron bracket to make? Or should I just return them and get another set? I really want to get going on this, but I want to do it right.

[D-BoB'91]

Originally Posted by neevnav

So I have a dilema now. My projector housings arrived today, but the bottom where the mounting bracket attaches to the housing is broken. Now I've got everything to do my retro, but this is a problem. It's not a problem if I'm going to fab up my own angle iron mounting brackets, but I don't know if I want to go to that trouble. How hard was the angle iron bracket to make? Or should I just return them and get another set? I really want to get going on this, but I want to do it right.

I guess it depends on if you want them to sit flush? Do you have time to do a "test fit" to see if they are going to be suitable for you? Just take the grille off and bolt up the new housings w/brackets and set the grille in place...if they aren't flush, go with the angle.

It really wasn't that bad. I think you can handle it. If you get hung up on something, we're always here to help. All it takes is 2 pieces of angle bolted together, trimmed to clear the projectors, and hung on the radiator support at the stock locations. Just be sure to slot all the bolt holes for adjustability.

Of course you could always e-mail the buyer and see how they would handle it...maybe they would just send you a new pair

[neevnav]

I know they won't sit flush, just from past experience. But test fitting isn't an option as the mounting bracket is broken. Getting another pair won't be an issue as I do a lot of business with the seller as a supplier for our bi-annual swap meet. But I really want to get started and I WAS originally planning the angle plan cause I wanted them to sit flush. So maybe that's the route I'll go.

[atv_freak]

The reason I ended making the brackets was because the stock brackets would have made it really hard to do any waterproofing. I really didn't mind having them stick out a little. Also the new brackets a lot stronger.

[D-BoB'91]

I guess it's settled then...get out there and start on this thing and post some pics up