Painting Interior Pieces Guide (hopefully)

97OKCZ71 · 10-17-2003, 03:17 PM

Hi all,

I have seen a lot of questions lately asking how to paint dashes and the interior pieces of their trucks. I also got a few messages from people asking if I knew or could do a write up on it. I first wanted to preface all this with the fact that we have done it here at my shop before, but I have never done much of the work personally since I am more on the custom leather side of the business. This hopefully will give a somewhat general explaination of what you should be using when you actually repaint your dash. I will also post pictures of one of the show trucks for Leatherseats.com that is quite well-known over in the Knoxville/Tennesse area.

The first thing you want to do is of course remove your dash. This process is slightly different for each of the Chevy trucks and is basically one of those things where you start with the bezel and work your way threw it. The other option here which is perfered in most cases is buying a whole new dash from a junkyard. It can even be cracked if you know how to use a little fiberglass or bondo hair (bondo/fiberglass combo).

Once you have the dash out you get to the hard part of any paint job... the prep work. You basically will start with getting rid of all the bumps and "texturing" on the dash itself. You want a fairly smooth surface to start with. Any bumps or texturing left on the dash will show threw on the paint. You will want to start with Sand-paper somewhere in the 100-200 grit area. You can start with 50, but just for a little while. You will want to move up the grit line with finer and finer grit until you end up with a semi-smooth surface.

After you have completed this portion you are basically ready for the paint part. Lots of people assume that paint is paint, but it is completely false. You will want to use automotive paint and depending on your money you will want to get the nicest stuff possible. Dupont has some of the best paints in the business, but expensive especially for any screw ups. Chromabase is also a good paint to use and a bit less expensive. You should check with your local automotive paint supply shop (not Home Depot). You can bring in the color you want and discuss with them the brands of paints available and so forth. Once you decided they should be able to mix up the exact color you want for you.

Now that you have the paint you have to begin the spray process. This is where the normal do-it-yourselfer might not be able to handle it. There isnt really an alternative to this step besides prepping everything and taking it to a professional painter for him to do the painting (which will cut down the costs of painting significantly). If you have an air compressor then you are half-way there though. You need to get a paint spray gun and a mask from your local paint shop also. With these you are ready to go. You need to find a way to hang your dash and you will want to do it in a clean room with very little air movement. If there is too much air movement then small particles will get into the paint. You will basically evenly spray the dash back and forth without too much overlap. Make sure to keep the gun at an equal distance from the dash and at a 90 degree angle the whole time. If you move angles or distance then they paint when completed will show the imperfections. Let your base coat set and dry. After it has set and dryed take a good look at it from all angles. If there are bumps or particles in the paint you need to wet sand them back out but use a VERY high grit sand paper with water. I would recommend somewhere around 2000 grit with a cup of water. Gently try to pull the imperfections out and when that is complete let it dry then spray again. You will want to do this only for a couple coats. If you coat it too much then the paint will easily crack and pop off.

Once you have gotten the paint as smooth as you want it then you will want to start with the Clear Coating. Clear Coating is the bling bling of paint. This is what makes it sparkle and shine and really look good in the vehicle. This process is the same as the paint process except that Clear Coat you have to pre-mix (some paints require this too). The pre-mix instructions should be available on the can or from the shop you got the paint from. Spray it evenly... wait for it to dry. Wet sand it down to get any imperfections out and then spray again.

Once this is all done your dash is basically done and needs to be reinstalled. This process is good for all PLASTIC pieces in your truck. Vinyl dashes or doors go threw a little different process.

The doors on most vehicles (all Chevy's I believe) are vinyl and with those you will have to rip off the vinyl. Many times this will leave the door weakened and here is where the fiberglass comes in. You will probably want to add a layer of fiberglass all along the door panel and if you want to get really artistic you can make shapes in the door by layering the fiberglass into flames or into custom speaker enclosures and so forth. Once the fiberglass is done you start with prep work and go threw the process again.

When people talk about glassing their interior they basically are removing that first step of preping the actual dash itself and instead laying a surface of fiberglass. After that takes place they still have to do prep work, but quite a bit less then preping the dash itself. This is how people get the custom pod mounts and so forth in their dash. I hope this helps out some. If there are any comments or questions please feel free to add those in. Like I said... I know the basic process and some specifics, but dont mess with it all that much myself.

Oh yeah... the other way to do your dash is to buy vinyl dye spray from SEM and remove your dash and spray it down. This can turn out really well also, but doesnt look quite as smooth and will need touch-up on a regular basis.

Jeremy
www.leatherseats.com

**** I didnt really want to go back and proof read all this so there might be mistakes in wording and spelling. ****

This is before we put in the custom blue and white leather and finished the door panels and a few other plastic pieces out.

Sweet Tea Man · 10-17-2003, 05:09 PM

what shade of blue is that on the top layer of that truck? also, where did you find that shade of blue for the carpet? i'm planning (way in the future) to paint the truck in Oriental blue from H.O.K. thanks for the help man. good guide too!

97OKCZ71 · 10-17-2003, 05:37 PM

The carpet is from ACC Mats, but the electric blue carpet is actually a little off in person. The paint on the top is something close to the Subaru WRX blue with a Pearl White from Nissan on the bottom. The truck is owned by a sponsor of ours in Knoxville named Rick.

We will probably find a way to dye the carpet the right shade eventually. Its a little TOO bright for the actual paint color, but that truck is emaculate.

Jeremy

juztyn · 10-18-2003, 04:37 PM

you sure all chevy doors are vinyl? i thought mine was plastic? how do you take off the vinyl? thanks.

fubu2 · 10-18-2003, 05:58 PM

Wow...that truck is awesome. thanks for the guide too

.

95TahoeSS · 10-19-2003, 07:04 PM

Would it be wrong to maybe glass right over the vinyl on the door panels? I was thinking of applying resin straight onto the vinyl and then maybe fiberglass body filler to smooth it out and then just prep and paint. What do ya'll think? Also 97OKCZ71, I was reading an older thread on custom haedliners and was wondering if you could sell me some of your suede. What colors do you have and how much material would it take to do my 4dr 'hoe? I also want prices on what it would take to do my seats in leather. I was looking at your website but could not find prices on your clearence stuff. Anyways, you can just PM or email me when you get a chance.

Thanks.

97OKCZ71 · 10-20-2003, 11:45 AM

juztyn:

I might be wrong on the older trucks, but to tell basically look at the top of your door panel at the seal and press on it with your finger. If it presses down then its vinyl if you can press all day long and nothing happens then it is plastic basically. I know in my truck (97) and all the newer Chevy's I have seen they have been vinyl. Maybe there are some base model doors that are plastic, but thats the way to tell.

fubu2:

Thanks... the truck is emaculate in person. The paint is PERFECT. Even the inside of the bed is that beautiful blue color.

95TahoeSS:

The fiberglass idea has been done and turned out fine... the only problem with it is that the base is squishy vinyl so there is the chance that you get into your truck one time and accidentally press to hard on it and it shatters. The stuff is hard as rock usually but that is still a possibility and I would say the best way would be to remove the vinyl. As far as pricing on leather and the suede I can get ya a decent deal on them. Just e-mail me at Jeremy@leatherseats.com. Thats the best way for me to get you prices because we generally dont sell the suede by the yard so I'l have to research what I can get it to you for. Clearance stuff on our website varies on models so thats why they arent all listed and we like to talk to the people before they order so they know any and all issues with the clearance stuff (mainly color issues). You will probably have to give me measurements of your headliner for me to get an accurate figure.

Jeremy

97OKCZ71 · 10-20-2003, 11:49 AM

juztyn: Sorry forgot to answer your vinyl removal question. To remove it take off your door panel. You should see it glued down on the back. Basically start peeling that up and slowly work your way peeling it off. The vinyl is attached by strong upholstery adhesive.

Jeremy

KevMc · 10-21-2003, 09:59 AM

That looks really nice. I have a stupid question though, with a smoothed and shiney dash like that, do you have any problems with sun glare off it making it hard to see of messing with your eyes?

97OKCZ71 · 10-21-2003, 05:51 PM

KevMC: Haha, honestly I dont have any experience driving it but the way the dashes are curved I dont think you would. Maybe in just the right lighting it could. I dont think it would be a huge problem, because even in traffic you dont normally get blinded by another car's paint in the sunlight and if you do you need to pull that guy over and see what the in hell he used.

Jeremy

9chevy4 · 10-21-2003, 06:03 PM

THANKS

THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY

LS6TT · 10-28-2003, 03:28 PM

why do you suggest automotive paint over say krylon plastic paint?

juztyn · 10-28-2003, 04:40 PM

do you have to sand down the dash, i think smooth would look good, but i kinda like the texture. i know a guy who just cleaned his dash real good (it was an s10) used 2 coats of dulpicolor and a heat gun and painted it black and it turned out pretty good without sanding or anything...

97OKCZ71 · 11-03-2003, 10:29 AM

LS6TT:

I suggested automotive paint because that is normally what people are wanting. The shiny clear coated type dash that matches the exterior. Thats what all the show cars do. Now if your are just wanting to do a color change to the dash then you can definitely do what you are talking about. What you will end up with is a flat color with the existing texture that will chip off and you will have to respray occasionally.

juztyn:

I can feel you on the texture thing. It makes it look more factory, but basically what I mentioned in response to LS6TT is the same for what you speak of. With the texture left on it the paint does not bond as well and tiny air bubbles are left under the paint and chipping will occur. Which can be remedied with another coat of paint, but the method I described original would be the best for keeping the paint bonded and for 0 chipping if prepped correctly. Without a clear coat you will always end up with a flat looking color pretty much. There are a few paints out there though that have the paint and clear mixed together and that might work too if you dont mind poor quality paint.

Jeremy

LS6TT · 12-21-2003, 05:34 PM

so your saying even if i sand and prep the dash with primer and use dupicolor it will still chip off?

hca · 12-21-2003, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LS6TT
so your saying even if i sand and prep the dash with primer and use dupicolor it will still chip off?

i havent witnessed any scratches on my truck Or my friends truck. He went from tan to black in his bronco and I went from maroon to black in my silverado. All we did was clean with wax and grease remover, and go straight to painting with DupliColor Vinyl and Fabric spray paint. That is some good *** paint. Mine has been done for months, same as his. It doesnt scratch off or rub off or anything, not even with armor all. I highly recommend that paint. and for harder plastic things use krylon fusion paint.

97OKCZ71 · 12-22-2003, 12:21 AM

It is not guaranteed to chip off and it depends on the areas you do. If you prep it right and get a good bond then a lot of times you dont have a ton of problem with chipping, but you will notice over time that any high traffic areas will start to wear and fade. I know this from experience because 2 of the vehicles I sponsor have done this and it turned out great, but they are both daily drivers and the areas where seats slide back and forth or where you have any type of rubbing you will get wear and so forth. Not saying is not a viable option because it works and can look great and last a while, but it is not as permanent as the method I described. It always depends on what you want the final product to look like too.

Jeremy

ELEGALGMC · 01-06-2004, 05:51 AM

check out my dash. I just took it off and my body guy hooked it up. He sanded it some and preped it for paint:

97OKCZ71 · 01-06-2004, 08:25 AM

Very nice... I personally dont like tweed, but it looks pretty good on that lower section. Give him props on the dash. It looks REALLY clean.

Jeremy

LS6TT · 01-06-2004, 09:13 PM

well i decided to go with automotive paint and picked up some paint flex agent primer and everything and it was only 190 bucks..very good price for everything I got..i will post pics here whenever its done

10-17-2003, 03:17 PM	#1
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	Painting Interior Pieces Guide (hopefully) Hi all, I have seen a lot of questions lately asking how to paint dashes and the interior pieces of their trucks. I also got a few messages from people asking if I knew or could do a write up on it. I first wanted to preface all this with the fact that we have done it here at my shop before, but I have never done much of the work personally since I am more on the custom leather side of the business. This hopefully will give a somewhat general explaination of what you should be using when you actually repaint your dash. I will also post pictures of one of the show trucks for Leatherseats.com that is quite well-known over in the Knoxville/Tennesse area. The first thing you want to do is of course remove your dash. This process is slightly different for each of the Chevy trucks and is basically one of those things where you start with the bezel and work your way threw it. The other option here which is perfered in most cases is buying a whole new dash from a junkyard. It can even be cracked if you know how to use a little fiberglass or bondo hair (bondo/fiberglass combo). Once you have the dash out you get to the hard part of any paint job... the prep work. You basically will start with getting rid of all the bumps and "texturing" on the dash itself. You want a fairly smooth surface to start with. Any bumps or texturing left on the dash will show threw on the paint. You will want to start with Sand-paper somewhere in the 100-200 grit area. You can start with 50, but just for a little while. You will want to move up the grit line with finer and finer grit until you end up with a semi-smooth surface. After you have completed this portion you are basically ready for the paint part. Lots of people assume that paint is paint, but it is completely false. You will want to use automotive paint and depending on your money you will want to get the nicest stuff possible. Dupont has some of the best paints in the business, but expensive especially for any screw ups. Chromabase is also a good paint to use and a bit less expensive. You should check with your local automotive paint supply shop (not Home Depot). You can bring in the color you want and discuss with them the brands of paints available and so forth. Once you decided they should be able to mix up the exact color you want for you. Now that you have the paint you have to begin the spray process. This is where the normal do-it-yourselfer might not be able to handle it. There isnt really an alternative to this step besides prepping everything and taking it to a professional painter for him to do the painting (which will cut down the costs of painting significantly). If you have an air compressor then you are half-way there though. You need to get a paint spray gun and a mask from your local paint shop also. With these you are ready to go. You need to find a way to hang your dash and you will want to do it in a clean room with very little air movement. If there is too much air movement then small particles will get into the paint. You will basically evenly spray the dash back and forth without too much overlap. Make sure to keep the gun at an equal distance from the dash and at a 90 degree angle the whole time. If you move angles or distance then they paint when completed will show the imperfections. Let your base coat set and dry. After it has set and dryed take a good look at it from all angles. If there are bumps or particles in the paint you need to wet sand them back out but use a VERY high grit sand paper with water. I would recommend somewhere around 2000 grit with a cup of water. Gently try to pull the imperfections out and when that is complete let it dry then spray again. You will want to do this only for a couple coats. If you coat it too much then the paint will easily crack and pop off. Once you have gotten the paint as smooth as you want it then you will want to start with the Clear Coating. Clear Coating is the bling bling of paint. This is what makes it sparkle and shine and really look good in the vehicle. This process is the same as the paint process except that Clear Coat you have to pre-mix (some paints require this too). The pre-mix instructions should be available on the can or from the shop you got the paint from. Spray it evenly... wait for it to dry. Wet sand it down to get any imperfections out and then spray again. Once this is all done your dash is basically done and needs to be reinstalled. This process is good for all PLASTIC pieces in your truck. Vinyl dashes or doors go threw a little different process. The doors on most vehicles (all Chevy's I believe) are vinyl and with those you will have to rip off the vinyl. Many times this will leave the door weakened and here is where the fiberglass comes in. You will probably want to add a layer of fiberglass all along the door panel and if you want to get really artistic you can make shapes in the door by layering the fiberglass into flames or into custom speaker enclosures and so forth. Once the fiberglass is done you start with prep work and go threw the process again. When people talk about glassing their interior they basically are removing that first step of preping the actual dash itself and instead laying a surface of fiberglass. After that takes place they still have to do prep work, but quite a bit less then preping the dash itself. This is how people get the custom pod mounts and so forth in their dash. I hope this helps out some. If there are any comments or questions please feel free to add those in. Like I said... I know the basic process and some specifics, but dont mess with it all that much myself. Oh yeah... the other way to do your dash is to buy vinyl dye spray from SEM and remove your dash and spray it down. This can turn out really well also, but doesnt look quite as smooth and will need touch-up on a regular basis. Jeremy www.leatherseats.com ** I didnt really want to go back and proof read all this so there might be mistakes in wording and spelling. ** This is before we put in the custom blue and white leather and finished the door panels and a few other plastic pieces out.

10-18-2003, 04:37 PM	#4
juztyn i had to change it Status: Offline Join Date: Jul 2003 Member ID: 7708 Pics: My Gallery Location: Georgia Posts: 687	you sure all chevy doors are vinyl? i thought mine was plastic? how do you take off the vinyl? thanks. 1997 Chevy RCSB 305 4l60e Bright Red for sale!! 1998 GMC RCSB 262 4l60e White Next Project Truck

10-28-2003, 03:28 PM	#12
LS6TT Registered User Status: Offline Join Date: Oct 2003 Member ID: 9835 Pics: My Gallery Location: TX Age: 25 Posts: 1,399	why do you suggest automotive paint over say krylon plastic paint? -Alex Daily: Cadillac CTS Wanted 4wd x-cab, tahoe, or burb.

10-28-2003, 04:40 PM	#13
juztyn i had to change it Status: Offline Join Date: Jul 2003 Member ID: 7708 Pics: My Gallery Location: Georgia Posts: 687	do you have to sand down the dash, i think smooth would look good, but i kinda like the texture. i know a guy who just cleaned his dash real good (it was an s10) used 2 coats of dulpicolor and a heat gun and painted it black and it turned out pretty good without sanding or anything... 1997 Chevy RCSB 305 4l60e Bright Red for sale!! 1998 GMC RCSB 262 4l60e White Next Project Truck

12-21-2003, 05:34 PM	#15
LS6TT Registered User Status: Offline Join Date: Oct 2003 Member ID: 9835 Pics: My Gallery Location: TX Age: 25 Posts: 1,399	so your saying even if i sand and prep the dash with primer and use dupicolor it will still chip off? -Alex Daily: Cadillac CTS Wanted 4wd x-cab, tahoe, or burb.


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10-17-2003, 05:37 PM	#3
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	The carpet is from ACC Mats, but the electric blue carpet is actually a little off in person. The paint on the top is something close to the Subaru WRX blue with a Pearl White from Nissan on the bottom. The truck is owned by a sponsor of ours in Knoxville named Rick. We will probably find a way to dye the carpet the right shade eventually. Its a little TOO bright for the actual paint color, but that truck is emaculate. Jeremy

10-18-2003, 05:58 PM	#5
fubu2 SUMBISH Status: Offline Join Date: Jul 2003 Member ID: 7509 Pics: My Gallery Location: Austin, TX...kinda Age: 23 Posts: 505	Wow...that truck is awesome. thanks for the guide too .

10-19-2003, 07:04 PM	#6
95TahoeSS Registered User Status: Offline Join Date: Oct 2002 Member ID: 2942 Pics: My Gallery Location: Kansas city, MO Age: 30 Posts: 87	Would it be wrong to maybe glass right over the vinyl on the door panels? I was thinking of applying resin straight onto the vinyl and then maybe fiberglass body filler to smooth it out and then just prep and paint. What do ya'll think? Also 97OKCZ71, I was reading an older thread on custom haedliners and was wondering if you could sell me some of your suede. What colors do you have and how much material would it take to do my 4dr 'hoe? I also want prices on what it would take to do my seats in leather. I was looking at your website but could not find prices on your clearence stuff. Anyways, you can just PM or email me when you get a chance. Thanks.

10-20-2003, 11:45 AM	#7
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	juztyn: I might be wrong on the older trucks, but to tell basically look at the top of your door panel at the seal and press on it with your finger. If it presses down then its vinyl if you can press all day long and nothing happens then it is plastic basically. I know in my truck (97) and all the newer Chevy's I have seen they have been vinyl. Maybe there are some base model doors that are plastic, but thats the way to tell. fubu2: Thanks... the truck is emaculate in person. The paint is PERFECT. Even the inside of the bed is that beautiful blue color. 95TahoeSS: The fiberglass idea has been done and turned out fine... the only problem with it is that the base is squishy vinyl so there is the chance that you get into your truck one time and accidentally press to hard on it and it shatters. The stuff is hard as rock usually but that is still a possibility and I would say the best way would be to remove the vinyl. As far as pricing on leather and the suede I can get ya a decent deal on them. Just e-mail me at Jeremy@leatherseats.com. Thats the best way for me to get you prices because we generally dont sell the suede by the yard so I'l have to research what I can get it to you for. Clearance stuff on our website varies on models so thats why they arent all listed and we like to talk to the people before they order so they know any and all issues with the clearance stuff (mainly color issues). You will probably have to give me measurements of your headliner for me to get an accurate figure. Jeremy

10-20-2003, 11:49 AM	#8
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	juztyn: Sorry forgot to answer your vinyl removal question. To remove it take off your door panel. You should see it glued down on the back. Basically start peeling that up and slowly work your way peeling it off. The vinyl is attached by strong upholstery adhesive. Jeremy

10-21-2003, 09:59 AM	#9
KevMc Pickles give me gas. Status: Offline Join Date: Jun 2002 Member ID: 1915 Pics: My Gallery Location: Columbia, SC Age: 36 Posts: 1,213	That looks really nice. I have a stupid question though, with a smoothed and shiney dash like that, do you have any problems with sun glare off it making it hard to see of messing with your eyes?

10-21-2003, 05:51 PM	#10
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	KevMC: Haha, honestly I dont have any experience driving it but the way the dashes are curved I dont think you would. Maybe in just the right lighting it could. I dont think it would be a huge problem, because even in traffic you dont normally get blinded by another car's paint in the sunlight and if you do you need to pull that guy over and see what the in hell he used. Jeremy

10-21-2003, 06:03 PM	#11
9chevy4 Little Andy Status: Offline Join Date: Feb 2003 Member ID: 4838 Pics: My Gallery Location: socal beotch!! Age: 26 Posts: 3,577	THANKS THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY

11-03-2003, 10:29 AM	#14
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	LS6TT: I suggested automotive paint because that is normally what people are wanting. The shiny clear coated type dash that matches the exterior. Thats what all the show cars do. Now if your are just wanting to do a color change to the dash then you can definitely do what you are talking about. What you will end up with is a flat color with the existing texture that will chip off and you will have to respray occasionally. juztyn: I can feel you on the texture thing. It makes it look more factory, but basically what I mentioned in response to LS6TT is the same for what you speak of. With the texture left on it the paint does not bond as well and tiny air bubbles are left under the paint and chipping will occur. Which can be remedied with another coat of paint, but the method I described original would be the best for keeping the paint bonded and for 0 chipping if prepped correctly. Without a clear coat you will always end up with a flat looking color pretty much. There are a few paints out there though that have the paint and clear mixed together and that might work too if you dont mind poor quality paint. Jeremy

12-22-2003, 12:21 AM	#17
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	It is not guaranteed to chip off and it depends on the areas you do. If you prep it right and get a good bond then a lot of times you dont have a ton of problem with chipping, but you will notice over time that any high traffic areas will start to wear and fade. I know this from experience because 2 of the vehicles I sponsor have done this and it turned out great, but they are both daily drivers and the areas where seats slide back and forth or where you have any type of rubbing you will get wear and so forth. Not saying is not a viable option because it works and can look great and last a while, but it is not as permanent as the method I described. It always depends on what you want the final product to look like too. Jeremy

01-06-2004, 05:51 AM	#18
ELEGALGMC u talkin 2 me! Status: Offline Join Date: Dec 2002 Member ID: 3708 Pics: My Gallery Location: Los Angeles Age: 26 Posts: 370	check out my dash. I just took it off and my body guy hooked it up. He sanded it some and preped it for paint: TRUCK 4 SALE PM IF INTERESTED

01-06-2004, 08:25 AM	#19
97OKCZ71 Brushguard? Treeguard!! Status: Offline Join Date: Jan 2003 Member ID: 4407 Pics: My Gallery Location: Oklahoma City, OK Posts: 337	Very nice... I personally dont like tweed, but it looks pretty good on that lower section. Give him props on the dash. It looks REALLY clean. Jeremy

01-06-2004, 09:13 PM	#20
LS6TT Registered User Status: Offline Join Date: Oct 2003 Member ID: 9835 Pics: My Gallery Location: TX Age: 25 Posts: 1,399	well i decided to go with automotive paint and picked up some paint flex agent primer and everything and it was only 190 bucks..very good price for everything I got..i will post pics here whenever its done -Alex Daily: Cadillac CTS Wanted 4wd x-cab, tahoe, or burb.

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