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Old 09-20-2003, 10:43 AM   #81
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Thanks for the reply. Hope to find time this weekend to pput them in.


Question:

My friend who is helping has a 2001 1500 Z71 and he wants to level/raise his front. Does the Green Key do this for him?

Maybe we will be doing two next week!
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Old 09-24-2003, 11:05 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by majbutch
Thanks for the reply. Hope to find time this weekend to pput them in.


Question:

My friend who is helping has a 2001 1500 Z71 and he wants to level/raise his front. Does the Green Key do this for him?

Maybe we will be doing two next week!
no, the ford key lifts the 1500 Z71 thats what the pics are of.
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Old 09-26-2003, 09:31 PM   #83
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i have a 1992 1500 it sagges a good 2 inchs in the front i want to level it off what do you recomend im kinda confused on what it would take and all thanks
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Old 09-27-2003, 12:01 AM   #84
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Thanks Luke2kZ71 for this *tech* Even tho I'm going down instead of up. I bought some Belltech keys to lower the front of my truck. I was going to start calling around to see who could install them for me since I had no clue how to do this, now I think i give it a try this week-end. We have some big gear pullers at work. Thanks again man
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:15 PM   #85
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your welcome bro! i didnt think about using this thread for going down
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Old 09-30-2003, 07:48 PM   #86
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PRELOADING

Is there any reason to PRELOAD the bars when you change the keys? Read the whole post and didn't see any mention of it, so I ASSUME I don't need to. However I want to make sure as I'm doing the key replacement tomorrow.

Also, I have the YH bars should I upgrade? I plan on adding a ranch hand replacement in the near future. Do you think my stock bars w/Ford keys can hold it?

thanks
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Old 09-30-2003, 08:37 PM   #87
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Torsion Bar

What is a Torsion bar?
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Old 10-02-2003, 02:31 PM   #88
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Re: PRELOADING

Quote:
Originally posted by Southernz71
Is there any reason to PRELOAD the bars when you change the keys? Read the whole post and didn't see any mention of it, so I ASSUME I don't need to. However I want to make sure as I'm doing the key replacement tomorrow.

Also, I have the YH bars should I upgrade? I plan on adding a ranch hand replacement in the near future. Do you think my stock bars w/Ford keys can hold it?

thanks
i say get new bars...
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Old 10-02-2003, 02:32 PM   #89
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Re: Torsion Bar

Quote:
Originally posted by SilveradoLady
What is a Torsion bar?
A torsion bar is a spring, but instead of bouncing up and down, it twist instead.
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Old 10-06-2003, 10:25 PM   #90
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Luke, need some questions answered please!!..

OK, I own a 03 GMC Sierra Z71. Today, I went and ordered the Ford Keys(00 Ford F-150 keys). Then I go see how much it would be to install the keys and blocks. This is a stock truck(FYI). And, the guy told me that it would be $100 to install the blocks and the keys AND he said that to put blocks in the back, he would have to undo the back shocks to put blocks in?? Never heard of this before. He also told me that my shocks wouldn't hook back up with the 2" block in the rear. So, I'm turning to you for advice. I am going to get new shocks when I get the money. But, could I do this and get away with it for a couple of weeks before I get my new shocks? The ride is not that important to me. I just want a way to fit 33's on 16x8's. And, of course, my dad won't let me lift it. So this is my only option without him noticing. So here are my questions:
1. Can I do this install front and rear without replacing my shocks?
2. Is installing the blocks in the back really that difficult?
3. Is the torsion key swap really difficult to do? I think I can do this, but I just don't want to break anything :crazyi:

Thanks, for your help. Please be patient with me :-D
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Old 10-07-2003, 02:33 AM   #91
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1) Your shocks should be long enough just to run as a temp,just dont flex it or you may break a shock. They have to be long enough for the suspensions full travel, and its got more than 2" of drop to it stock.

2) Installing blocks is easy, undo the u bolts and add em in, put the new longer u-bolts back in, you may not even have to take the shocks off teh axle (no big dual if you do)

3) The torsion key swap is easy to do as well if you have the tools, 2 hrs MAX. Just be safe and think about what your doing. I would personally save the $100 and spend it on new shocks!
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Old 10-07-2003, 02:39 AM   #92
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See the thing is, I don't know if I would be doing it right
The only 2 questions I really have is: can I just buy one puller and or do I need two to clamp on both keys? And what exactly do I have to do when it says to tighen the puller till the key is out?? I don't want to do something and lose a finger or a hand LOL.
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Old 10-07-2003, 09:07 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z71GMCSierra
See the thing is, I don't know if I would be doing it right
The only 2 questions I really have is: can I just buy one puller and or do I need two to clamp on both keys? And what exactly do I have to do when it says to tighen the puller till the key is out?? I don't want to do something and lose a finger or a hand LOL.
the how to covers that... the puller has a bolt that you tighten/losen and you do 1 at a time, like instructed in the how-to
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Old 10-07-2003, 12:57 PM   #94
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torsion bars

great info but my problem is I got a 02 crew cab2500 5" rancho with 305's bars are already cranked some. I want to put some 35's on it but I get a vibration at 55-60 mph do I crank it and put a longer drive shft or what? thank for all your go info and what a great site Bobsatruck
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Old 10-07-2003, 01:04 PM   #95
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Re: torsion bars

Quote:
Originally posted by Bobsatruck
great info but my problem is I got a 02 crew cab2500 5" rancho with 305's bars are already cranked some. I want to put some 35's on it but I get a vibration at 55-60 mph do I crank it and put a longer drive shft or what? thank for all your go info and what a great site Bobsatruck
you might want to have your tires rebalaned and maybe even try a hub centric wheel if it bothers you that much.... but cranking the bars wont make it vibrate more... you will just feel it more cause the suspenson will be slightly stiffer.
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Old 10-07-2003, 02:38 PM   #96
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Alright, well Sears does not have the 7 ton puller in stock right now. 2 weeks or something like that to get it in. I went to advanced auto parts today and they had a "heavyduty 6inch" but nowhere on it did it say "7 ton" so. Does heavyduty mean 7 ton? Or could I rent a GM torsion unloading/loading tool from the GM place? Need help here guys!!!
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Old 10-07-2003, 02:44 PM   #97
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OK heres one for ya luke. Say you happen to break the TB bolt.... like maybe the head off. What size bolt would one buy to replace this? Would just a grade 8 bolt work? If not, whats the part # of the bolt so one could order it from GM.
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Old 10-07-2003, 03:40 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally posted by DarkEternal
OK heres one for ya luke. Say you happen to break the TB bolt.... like maybe the head off. What size bolt would one buy to replace this? Would just a grade 8 bolt work? If not, whats the part # of the bolt so one could order it from GM.
what i personally would do... is get the toher bolt out, leave the puller on the truck, and head over to the local hardware shop, have them match the bolt, and make sure you get a grade 8 bolt.
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Old 10-07-2003, 03:42 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z71GMCSierra
Alright, well Sears does not have the 7 ton puller in stock right now. 2 weeks or something like that to get it in. I went to advanced auto parts today and they had a "heavyduty 6inch" but nowhere on it did it say "7 ton" so. Does heavyduty mean 7 ton? Or could I rent a GM torsion unloading/loading tool from the GM place? Need help here guys!!!
i would either buy the puller online and have it in 5 days or so.... or ask a gm dealer to borrow a puller. i wouldnt risk using one if you dont know the capasity
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Old 10-07-2003, 05:24 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally posted by Luke2kZ71


what i personally would do... is get the toher bolt out, leave the puller on the truck, and head over to the local hardware shop, have them match the bolt, and make sure you get a grade 8 bolt.
But if this person only has 1 vehicle?
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