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Old 08-02-2009, 05:19 PM   #1241
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

So would i use the chevy 1/2 keys on a 2003 2500LD ? or the ford keys ? thanks for the help
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:53 PM   #1242
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

Any trick for getting the keys busted loose from the torsion bars?
Thanks,
-Mike
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Old 08-18-2009, 08:33 AM   #1243
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

on mine, I unbolted the crossmember and got a BFH and beat both bars out of the control arms, then pulled the whole set up (bars,keys,crossmember) out and broke out the air hammer
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:55 PM   #1244
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

So I find a tag on one of my tb's and I rip it off. It says code YB, part#15988806. since I don't see this on the list at the beginning of this thread, I call a chevy dealer to ask for max torque rating. The parts person with attitude on the other end says it is 1935. Can anybody here verify this for me please? Thank You
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:42 PM   #1245
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Re: FAQ

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Originally Posted by Chessman View Post
Well, since you mention it... I get anal about safety procedures, and whenever I see a car jacked up and someone working under it, without jack stands, I get on my safety soapbox. One of your photos shows the front end jacked up with a floor jack and some blocks of wood, but there aren't any jack stands under the frame. Even though you could argue that if the jack slipped, the wheels are still on so the front end wouldn't fall enough to hurt someone underneath. But how far will it fall if the T-bars are out? Safety is a state of mind and you should always practice good, safe procedures.

Sorry for being such an old worry-wart.

Great info and pictures -- thanks!



The jack stands are one thing. But that bungee cord stoping the puller that will brake. (just got lucky) Thats just funny. there is noway I would trust a rubber band to keep 2000 3000 plus pounds of tension from take'n my head arm finger off. And please dont use C-Clamps no mater how big and heavy duty they are. C-Clamps are not made for that kind of work. Use the puller he shows before C-Clamp.
They have the right tool you can rent from some auto parts stores.
bungee cord Please everyone be careful

created2destroy Nice truck by the way looks like fun
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:48 PM   #1246
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

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Originally Posted by WILDGAME View Post
So would i use the chevy 1/2 keys on a 2003 2500LD ? or the ford keys ? thanks for the help
1/2 ton keys
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:24 AM   #1247
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

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Originally Posted by aareedy View Post
So, i think this has been asked and reasked, but might as well make it clear.

Stock 2005 1500 Z71. Want to put 285/75/R15's. Was planning on just cranking the oem bars up 3-4 turns. I don't care if its COMPLETELY level, just don't want to rub. Does this sound feasible?
i know your post is old, but just for some more info...16's wont fit on this truck either...smallest you can go is 17's and even some 17's wont fit.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:11 PM   #1248
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

wat if i eventually want to get a suspension lift and just want to tighten them down so my tires stop rubbing will it make a difference wen i get the lift ?
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:28 PM   #1249
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

I needed to replace my torsion bars because they were rusted solid to the keys so I cut them out. The replacement bars I got at the junkyard are the GK code bars. Are these too heavy duty for my 1/2 ton shortwide? From what I've read, these bars came on heavy duty 3/4 tons, and I'm worried that they'll be too stout. I'm not looking to lift the truck, just level it (around 1" or so up from where it sat before I cut out the stockers). Does anyone have experience using the GK bars on a half ton OBS? Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:16 PM   #1250
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

Also, will bars from a 99 NBS half ton fit my OBS half ton? The reason I ask is because the yard where I got my GK bars had a set of bars off a 99 NBS half ton as well (I didn't get the code while I was there). If the GK bars won't work for what I want, I'll swap for the ones off the NBS truck if they'll work. Let me know. Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:17 PM   #1251
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

what if u put ford 2" lift torsion bar keys under a chevy
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:00 PM   #1252
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

You now drive a Ford
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:20 PM   #1253
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

ha ha ha u cant read then i said i had a ford i now have a silverado genius if u did sum reading and reseaching aroun u would find that that a pretty easy way 2 lift ur truck with stock ford f150 keys witch r indexed higher
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:22 PM   #1254
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

I have a quick question about T-bar cranking. I was hoping to max out my stock keys (the adjusters are almost completely flush now, and it's not leveled yet) to see how much lift I get before my new tires. Everyone on here says to get an alignment as soon as possible after doing this.

How long would it be safe to drive around after cranking the bars without an alignment? I want to see how much lift I can get from the stock keys, and possibly upgrade keys if the stock ones aren't indexed enough. I don't care about tire wear as I'm planning on upgrading my tires shortly after. I basically want to know if it's unsafe to drive with cranked bars and no alignment.

What do you all think?
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So were you born this way, or was there an accident that causes you to just vomit out dumb things?

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Old 11-19-2009, 01:38 PM   #1255
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

No more unsafe than driving with a bad aligment.
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Old 11-19-2009, 01:40 PM   #1256
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Re: Ford Keys & Torsion Bar Cranking/Replacing **TECH**

Well DUH! I guess I never thought about that either. The main concern would be camber, correct? So theoretically, my braking ability would be reduced. Anything other than camber being wrong that I am missing?
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