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Old 11-22-2003, 11:01 PM   #21
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Thx augiedog. Anyone wanna make some comments on the Volant intake? I wanna be able to put in a tb spacer, so I need an intake that would be compatible w/out any custom fab. Pics of a volant installation on a 97? Does a tb spacer help noticably and where do you guys mostly shop for parts? I usually look at truckperformance.com or summit. Thx again!
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by vortec stroker
Best mods are Thorley Headers, and Ed Wright programming which is Fastchip ....not superchips. But when you do headers get full dual exhaust also. I gained over 20 hp at the wheels just by using a cutout when I had stock piping between my headers and catback 3" exhaust. I think I have the most N/A horsepower for a 96-99 Vortec truck, with stock fuel injection that I have heard of. (not trying to bragg....please chime in if otherwise) I have a throttle body spacer if you want it. You can fab up a very clean cold air intake for under $50 from a diesel shop, then just get headers, program, and full exhaust. Don't get shorty headers, they also give you shorty gains. Good luck!
I think your vehicle mods are in the direction I want to go, but would you recommend true duals for a standard compression engine? I heard you lose too much low-end torque for it to be worth it. Also, I've heard a lot about x-pipes. Is it basically another type of balance pipe like an h-pipe? Also, nice HP and torque ratings
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Old 11-23-2003, 04:39 PM   #23
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I think most people dont realize that our trucks come stock with 9.4 to 1 compression (mine is only9.8 to 1), which I dont think anyone would call low. I would also put in a X-pipe in your dual system (helps torque and hp) especially because our pipes cross over to the passenger side with the driver side pipe being longer. With the dual system you can get rid of your cats completely, with a tune from Ed Wright deleting rear o2's. A set of 1.6 roller rockers is beneficial too, if you're up to the install. Also, rip off the lip on your throttle body blade and plug the holes with epoxy or a metal putty compound. Its worth some cfm.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:26 PM   #24
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vortec stroker...do you think you could answer my questions on the first page of this post...im kinda curious
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:11 PM   #25
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Thx for the info vortec stroker. I'll probably stick to the single muffler for now, except add headers. As for the roller rockers, I'd have to have them installed. I'm also thinking of just getting a new throttle body blade from CFM Technologies or even a bored out tb in the future. Also, I know a place locally that does head porting. Do you think it would be worth while, or only if I had some type of forced induction? What do you think? bah, I know what all these parts do and how they work, but as for mechanical work I'm a n00b. Oh, and I think it would be nice if this was a sticky thread, mods.

PS: sux when you end up having to calculate labor into a lot of installs, but it beats screwing something up and only cussing myself out.
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Old 11-24-2003, 02:30 AM   #26
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So with someone like my self I have the Gibson headers going to a stock downpipe to a dual in single 3" out flowmaster what should I do? hi flow cats? x pipe? which muffler?
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Old 11-24-2003, 04:31 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by 97Chebbie


PS: sux when you end up having to calculate labor into a lot of installs, but it beats screwing something up and only cussing myself out.
Thats always what makes the install fun...on another note though, after my experiences with people installing stuff for me or doing stuff it makes me hard to trust people (work was done on other vehicles) no one touches my truck now... One experience i had was with my an old truck that i got a system installed in...the guy that installed it put deck screws all the way through the cab wall and almost put the same screws through the bed (this was to hold the amp) another experience i had was with my current truck..i had someone lower it (only because i didn't have a torch and welder) and they installed the centershaft support upside down which caused about a inch of play in the driveline..they also didn't cut enough out of the a-arm on one side so it rubbed when i made turns and jacked my rims up...and the last thing they did was not tightning the crown nut tight enough on the wheel bearing so it cause tons of play in the wheel...all theses problems where caused by them and i ended up fixing all of the problems myself
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:48 AM   #28
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rcfast:

I gained Hp throughout the whole rpm range. I'm not sure about 3000 rpm and under (dont read that on the dyno) but whenever I drove it uncapped I felt no loss of low end power. I did not run o2 sims because Ed Wright took care of that for me in the programming. I use the same dyno for all my tuning here in Bakersfield, Le-Toy motors. It is a Dyno jet, and the numbers are not inflated. I make all my runs with full exhaust and belts. I dont have cut-outs anymore as I had full dual exhaust made for my truck and dont need them. I have not run the truck in the quarter mile yet. The track had one test and tune after I got my motor done, but I wanted to break the engine in. I hope to run low 14's with the setup. I ran a 14.1 @101 with a 100 shot (NX kit) and a 14.8 with previous 350 setup.
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:33 PM   #29
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Anyone know about the legality of running w/out a cat convertor in Oklahoma? I may yet take your advice stroker. I'll just have to do the exhaust in phases as cash permits Anyway thx for adding to the thread. Lemme know what your results are after you go to the track. What brand headers do you recommend? I'm looking at gibson or hooker. Thorley looks nice, but too expensive and they don't have a dealer around here. And is the volant intake good? I just can't get myself to shell out cash on a UPD when I just get a plastic tube for my particular installation.
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Old 11-24-2003, 11:55 PM   #30
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You can make an intake with 3.5" diesel tubing and silicone hose for the joints (blue hose you see with S.C. setups) Its clean and will save you money. For headers, get anything that is NOT a shorty header. I had some and they sucked!!!! That is they sucked compared to the Thorleys I have now. After headers, I paid $600 for full 2.5" dual exhaust with x-pipe and stainless magnaflows. Junk the cats and have whoever will be doing your computer delete the rear o2's (they dont control engine management anyways)
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Old 11-26-2003, 12:14 PM   #31
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If I don't fab up my own intake, what brand would you suggest for my truck? I'm kind of leaning toward volant because the UPD for my 97 only includes a new tube which I don't think is worth the $$ they're asking. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thx again! Also, if I don't have a Thorley headers dealer in my area, do they ship or what?
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Old 11-26-2003, 12:35 PM   #32
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You can order Thorley's direct, or from Summit Racing. They're right around $420. But in this case you get what you pay for. The extra $100-$150 was worth it to me, especially after I had the shorties. As far as intakes go, I would get the K&N. It goes all the way to the throttle body wihich gives the best performance, it also seals out hot air (just as important to get horsepower) If I were to get just bolt-ons I would get ....

1.) Thorley headers.....with true dual exhaust.
2.) K&N fipk intake (or preferably fab my own which I have done)
3.) Ed Wright programming..(deletes torque management and gives the most power from any chip hands down, he flashed the computer for my stroker and I would not use anybody else!!!)

4.) TORQUE CONVERTER!!!!!!!! If you want to go fast in any automatic this is a must.....and would be my first mod if I had an A4 LS1 camaro/trans-am. I run a 2800 Vigilante made by precision industries....instant half second in the quarter.

With stock cam just get #1-3 and if you have a short cab short bed you'll be in the high 14's. With similar mods I ran a 15.3 in my ext cab.
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Old 11-26-2003, 03:45 PM   #33
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Do you have a part # for the Thorleys. I checked out Summit and I just saw headers for up to a 95 pickup. Do I use those, or is there a specific version for 97s? Just wondering. I'll also probably go w/ the K&N. Thx for the input. Also, I know that this has been asked so many times, but what stall converter should I get when I finally do get one? I've heard between 2400 and 3000, but I know it depends on the specific hp/torque curve for your vehicle. I also definately wanna keep it streetable (daily driver).
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Old 11-26-2003, 03:50 PM   #34
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Does Ed Wright do free reprogramming if I do future upgrades to my truck after the initial programming session like Wester's (ie: head and cam set or port and polish)?
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:46 PM   #35
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Additional tunes are $150, but for good reason. They do do good work.
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:48 PM   #36
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Just wanted to say that all this talk about mods makes me wish I won the lottery, so I could get all these addons installed! Anyway, later.
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:29 PM   #37
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So if you do any other bolt ons you have to pay 150.00 to get another custom tune?
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:42 PM   #38
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I have 1999 Tahoe 5.7/L31:

UPD airbox
Dynomax catback
3.73
Eaton Posi
HPP3

UPD is much better value than FIPK. Yah you still use parts of the factory air tubing but it's fine.

Flowmaster mufflers sad to say don't seem to do much.

I just took my Dynomax catback off it was rotted, it was used and old.

Stock catback on, I am slower.

I am getting a Hooker Max_Flow muffler and using the stock pipes. Dual exhaust would work better for sure but it's going to be a lot more money and I'm looking for decent gains on a budget since I also have a race car.

I have a Yank 2800 to put in the Tahoe as well.

I went 16.3@83mph with 3.08 gears and no mods, so hopefully high 14's with the converter in.
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:13 PM   #39
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$150 for another tune, ouch...regardless of how good the work is. That could still buy a few bolt-ons. Are Wester's reprograms free after the initial programming? Also, I actually think I'm getting a Volant intake. and John, you have a 99, so you get the replacement lid assembly. W/ my 97, I just get a tube that goes to the tb. AND THEY COST THE SAME! Maybe if it was half as expensive. and....once again Thx to all the input from you guys! FSC Rox

PS: I just got an email from Summit about the Thorley headers. They have them, but they just aren't regularly stocked (for my truck anyway) I think I'm gonna grab the ceramic coated ones...less heat in the engine compartment. Where do you guys usually order parts from?
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:56 PM   #40
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Yes, get the ceramic coating!!!!! I didnt the first time and sent them back to get coated when I put ion the stroker. Whatever intake you get make sure it seals off the intake charge from the heat!!!!
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