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Old 06-18-2008, 01:29 PM   #1
acechevy
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What can i do now
i have a 2003 z71 that i swapped the 5.3 out with a 6.0 and 4L65E
I want to make it perform better and would like to help the gas as much as i could. I have some mods now Zippy tune, 4:56 gears, true daul flowmasters 40 series with X-pipe, 160 themostat, KN replacement filter, msd wires. I would like to do a cam and intake not sure what kind or size. i would like to do a stall also but same thing not sure what to use. ANy thing that i could do o help im open to ideas.

Thanks Ace

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Old 06-19-2008, 01:12 PM   #2
6.0vortecchevy
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Re: What can i do now
if your going to do the cam rout then i would go with this, this is the cam im going to get soon.

http://www.lunaticamshafts.com/Produ...d=2024&gid=288

2500 6.0 vortec 6in skyjacker lift with keys on 16in eagle wrapped in 315mtx, gmpp cam, xtreme tuning , true dual flowmaster 40 series.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:03 PM   #3
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
I'm not real familiar with the cams. Im looking for cam for more bottom and mid range hp and not real bad on the pocket with the gas prices lol. With this cam do i have to run a stall and if so what size would be good enought to still pull car trailors and etc.

Thanks Ace
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:14 PM   #4
6.0vortecchevy
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Re: What can i do now
this cam is a little less agressive and good for towing, with the cam i showed you yes it would be a good idea to change the tc, but this this one you wont have to since it makes it starting power at 1600, your gas milage wont change much with a cam either.

http://www.lunaticamshafts.com/Produ...d=2023&gid=288

2500 6.0 vortec 6in skyjacker lift with keys on 16in eagle wrapped in 315mtx, gmpp cam, xtreme tuning , true dual flowmaster 40 series.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:16 PM   #5
6.0vortecchevy
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Re: What can i do now
and also you just cant buy a cam you really have to buy all the supporting mod to go with, such as lifters, valve springs, and prob a new timing set.

2500 6.0 vortec 6in skyjacker lift with keys on 16in eagle wrapped in 315mtx, gmpp cam, xtreme tuning , true dual flowmaster 40 series.

Last edited by 6.0vortecchevy : 06-19-2008 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 06-20-2008, 11:22 PM   #6
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
ok ill check into it. I built the motor that was i my 4x4 85 it was stout. But they are way different then the nbs all this wirng and ****. I put the cam in it and like you said had to change all that stuff with it too. Thanks Ace
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Old 06-23-2008, 06:28 AM   #7
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Any one else has anythung that i can do?
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:19 PM   #8
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Quote:
Originally Posted by acechevy
i have a 2003 z71 that i swapped the 5.3 out with a 6.0 and 4L65E
I want to make it perform better and would like to help the gas as much as i could. I have some mods now Zippy tune, 4:56 gears, true daul flowmasters 40 series with X-pipe, 160 themostat, KN replacement filter, msd wires. I would like to do a cam and intake not sure what kind or size. i would like to do a stall also but same thing not sure what to use. ANy thing that i could do o help im open to ideas.

Thanks Ace



Anyone else have any ideas or opinions?
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Old 06-29-2008, 12:02 AM   #9
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.0vortecchevy
if your going to do the cam rout then i would go with this, this is the cam im going to get soon.

http://www.lunaticamshafts.com/Produ...d=2024&gid=288

Thanks for your input dont seems that anyone else want to give there advise.
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Old 06-29-2008, 04:18 PM   #10
trailwart
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Re: What can i do now
with 465 gears gas milage is really a moot point.
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Old 06-29-2008, 04:22 PM   #11
trailwart
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Re: What can i do now
there is alot of power to be made in a 6.0, you can do head swaps, cam swaps and other things to gain massive amounts of power but not mpg's. if you want a cam for the truck, pay attention to the main rpm range your in when pulling the trailer and try to get a cam that will have the best tq at that range.
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Old 06-29-2008, 10:03 PM   #12
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwart
with 465 gears gas milage is really a moot point.


I get 17 mpg right now thats good for what i got just not looking to go to 10-14 lol. The other web sites say to go with a 220 cam?? not sure want to here it but dont want to run crazy size stall. Also some one told me elec fans would add some power also some mpg has anyone done this and can agree or disagree?

Thanks Ace
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Old 06-29-2008, 10:50 PM   #13
2500ak
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Re: What can i do now
Interesting cam 6.0, I've never seen those durations. 113 with a 222/228. That would flow really well, good bit of exhaust bias.

I think that with 4.56 gears a cam might get you a fair amount of mpg's back. This is an interesting case.

Its a LQ9, in a 1/2 ton. The LQ9 has high compression and can stomach a pretty big cam, plenty of excess compression to bleed off.

The 4L65e has a very low first gear, that combined with the rear gears means any low end loss will be minimal. And it takes less power to turn than the 4L80e.

The general rule of thumb for these engines is to have int/ext durations around 220/220.

The LSA will determine the driveability more than anything.

The stock cam is a POS, because its designed for emissions. Wide LSA and low durations what a boring and pointless combination.

Now if the lsa is left wide, you can increase the durations with no loss of drive ability but the midrange doesn't get much more aggressive.

With a closer LSA, and lower durations the engine will yank in the midrange but run out of breath up top.

The stock cam you have is a little better than the usual GenIII truck cam, assuming you have an LQ9 (you have a 4L65e so I'm assuming you do), 196/201 int/ext on a 116 LSA.

Now A healthy cam for this truck would be like a

220/220 with 115 degrees lobe sep.

Or a 212/218 on a 114.

Or the LPE GT2-3 cam. Which is a 204/218 on a 118.5 LSA.

Even the tr cheatTR cam with a 117 LSA and 214/230 specs would be nice.

These kinds of cams won't lope noticeably They are kind of what the truck should have come with from the factory. Healthy cam's.


Anyways, more aggressive mild grinds are like the tr 220/220 on a 112, that's a classic grind, its ubiquitous. Then the 224/224 is a step up from that.

What size tires are you running? Sounds like you have a good candidate for a cam, even without a high stall a light truck with a light trans, a lot of compression, a low 1st gear and final drive ratios should not be that much of a problem.

Last edited by 2500ak : 06-29-2008 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:54 AM   #14
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500ak
Interesting cam 6.0, I've never seen those durations. 113 with a 222/228. That would flow really well, good bit of exhaust bias.

I think that with 4.56 gears a cam might get you a fair amount of mpg's back. This is an interesting case.

Its a LQ9, in a 1/2 ton. The LQ9 has high compression and can stomach a pretty big cam, plenty of excess compression to bleed off.

The 4L65e has a very low first gear, that combined with the rear gears means any low end loss will be minimal. And it takes less power to turn than the 4L80e.

The general rule of thumb for these engines is to have int/ext durations around 220/220.

The LSA will determine the driveability more than anything.

The stock cam is a POS, because its designed for emissions. Wide LSA and low durations what a boring and pointless combination.

Now if the lsa is left wide, you can increase the durations with no loss of drive ability but the midrange doesn't get much more aggressive.

With a closer LSA, and lower durations the engine will yank in the midrange but run out of breath up top.

The stock cam you have is a little better than the usual GenIII truck cam, assuming you have an LQ9 (you have a 4L65e so I'm assuming you do), 196/201 int/ext on a 116 LSA.

Now A healthy cam for this truck would be like a

220/220 with 115 degrees lobe sep.

Or a 212/218 on a 114.

Or the LPE GT2-3 cam. Which is a 204/218 on a 118.5 LSA.

Even the tr cheatTR cam with a 117 LSA and 214/230 specs would be nice.

These kinds of cams won't lope noticeably They are kind of what the truck should have come with from the factory. Healthy cam's.


Anyways, more aggressive mild grinds are like the tr 220/220 on a 112, that's a classic grind, its ubiquitous. Then the 224/224 is a step up from that.

What size tires are you running? Sounds like you have a good candidate for a cam, even without a high stall a light truck with a light trans, a lot of compression, a low 1st gear and final drive ratios should not be that much of a problem.


Im running 35s and yes its a LQ9 with the 4l65e. the cam that they were telling me to get is the 220/220 but i would like it to lope so i can hear it. I also dont want to have any porblems towing traliors either. the LSA what does it mean as far in what is it on the cam and what to go by when et cam far as name brand and all.

Thanks Ace for all the help trying to learn and figure out the right way for my truck the first time around lol
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Old 06-30-2008, 02:06 PM   #15
2500ak
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Re: What can i do now
220/220 should lope very slightly on a 115, more on a 114, and chop on a 112. The wide LSA's like 118.5 on the LPE shaft will actually sound smoother than stock.

Lope is really just the engine stumbling over itself in the low end. It does this because of reversion, which is where you loose flow because the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time. This overlap will give you the ability to fully evacuate the cylinders in the high end, and closer LSA bleeds off less compression than you loose from overlap. But if you have too much overlap your low end will suffer. Still you've got a few key advantages.

I don't think I'd put something below a 114 lsa in my LQ4, but then again that's in a big 3/4 ton CC with a 4L80e and lower compression.

Anything below 115 LSA will require tuning in order to see most of the advantages. 112 usually need tuning to get you drive ability back.

I'd say since your truck already has a high end bias with low gears, I'd go for a 114 LSA 220/220 like the tr grind.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:35 PM   #16
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500ak
220/220 should lope very slightly on a 115, more on a 114, and chop on a 112. The wide LSA's like 118.5 on the LPE shaft will actually sound smoother than stock.

Lope is really just the engine stumbling over itself in the low end. It does this because of reversion, which is where you loose flow because the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time. This overlap will give you the ability to fully evacuate the cylinders in the high end, and closer LSA bleeds off less compression than you loose from overlap. But if you have too much overlap your low end will suffer. Still you've got a few key advantages.

I don't think I'd put something below a 114 lsa in my LQ4, but then again that's in a big 3/4 ton CC with a 4L80e and lower compression.

Anything below 115 LSA will require tuning in order to see most of the advantages. 112 usually need tuning to get you drive ability back.

I'd say since your truck already has a high end bias with low gears, I'd go for a 114 LSA 220/220 like the tr grind.


So if it lopes badly then im loing low end hp but better top end? I dont care about top end just want low end hp and torque.

Thanks Ace
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:00 PM   #17
2500ak
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Re: What can i do now
Yes, the power is greatly reduced when its loping but you get gains as soon as its in its powerband.
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Old 07-01-2008, 01:45 PM   #18
trailwart
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Re: What can i do now
you gave some good info there
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:04 PM   #19
acechevy
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Re: What can i do now
Thanks Guys yall are helping me out with this new stuff lol
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