EPROM Tuning Software

[HaulnA$$]

Originally Posted by 91chevZ71

I just installed my Zeitronix WB today-
besides the EBL, this is a 'must buy' for us DIY guys!
If you're considering getting one, do it. Awesome

Mike

The more information you have to tune with, the better. JMHO

[el bob]

Originally Posted by HaulnA$$

From a quick look at the log, I saw a few things. Your cold starting problem is probably the battery or alternator. The battery voltage dips down to 9.4 Volts at crank and the engine is only spinning 125 RPM. Needs more oomph! Once the engine cranks , the alternator output only gets to 13.4 Volts, should be closer to 14. Once running, it runs o.k. at first but goes rich before entering closed loop. Overall, BLM's are good but WOT is rich and the injectors are going static. The O2 volts don't drop so you're just at the edge of going lean at WOT but not quite there yet.

ALso, when was the last time you replaced the O2 sensor with a good AC/Delco part. The O2 sensor looks a little lazy which makes it hard to see if the bogging is AE related. HTH

HaulnA$$, thanks a bunch for checking that out!

The alternator is a AutoZone PN#584714 Reman. Alternator ($69.99), installed 12/04/2004 by the previous owner at around 165k miles (about 17k miles ago). The battery is an AutoLite Platinum battery, also installed by the PO about 2.5 years ago on 11/15/2004.

The O2 sensor was replaced with the catalytic converter on May, 2005, at 168,898 miles by S&J Auto in Altadena, CA. I believe it's an AC Delco part but I can't say for sure since I did not see it come out of a box or install it myself.

I'll try and see how much new or reman AC Delco replacements for the alternator and O2 sensor will be. Do you have any recommendations on what battery to go with? What does GM use from the factory for a battery?

I was concerned by the way the spark advance flatlined every time I nailed the throttle and the truck bogged. Did that catch your eye? I'm new to this so I don't know if that is supposed to happen or not. It's really obvious in that .csv file I posted.

Thanks again for all of your help! I wouldn't have been able to do this without this thread.

I'm hoping to transition from analyzing data logs and fixing my truck to eventually modifying engines and custom tuning software for them. I ordered an Innovate LC-1 yesterday and hope to start datalogging with it as well.

[HaulnA$$]

Originally Posted by el bob

HaulnA$$, thanks a bunch for checking that out!

The alternator is a AutoZone PN#584714 Reman. Alternator ($69.99), installed 12/04/2004 by the previous owner at around 165k miles (about 17k miles ago). The battery is an AutoLite Platinum battery, also installed by the PO about 2.5 years ago on 11/15/2004.

The O2 sensor was replaced with the catalytic converter on May, 2005, at 168,898 miles by S&J Auto in Altadena, CA. I believe it's an AC Delco part but I can't say for sure since I did not see it come out of a box or install it myself.

I'll try and see how much new or reman AC Delco replacements for the alternator and O2 sensor will be. Do you have any recommendations on what battery to go with? What does GM use from the factory for a battery?

I was concerned by the way the spark advance flatlined every time I nailed the throttle and the truck bogged. Did that catch your eye? I'm new to this so I don't know if that is supposed to happen or not. It's really obvious in that .csv file I posted.

Thanks again for all of your help! I wouldn't have been able to do this without this thread.

I'm hoping to transition from analyzing data logs and fixing my truck to eventually modifying engines and custom tuning software for them. I ordered an Innovate LC-1 yesterday and hope to start datalogging with it as well.

Just take the alternator and battery out and have them tested and replace the bad part with a good name brand. No sense in replacing something that isn't bad. As for the O2 sensor, replace it with an AC/Delco. Worst case, you have a spare that at least works, all be it slowly. WOT spark looks normal for a stock chip. A good tune and a slight bump in fuel pressure would wake things up. HTH

[blown91]

I've been using tunnercat with my 7747 pcm with the flash & burn and G1 from MOATES. I ordered an EBL should be in friday. I also purchased tunerpro but having problems with the program (more not knowing what I'm doing than problems) what is a XDF file and how do you get it do I need the ALDL cable connected to the data link and extract from the pcm and what is emulating? I dont need the program (tunerpro) to datalog I have LM-1 w/rpm converter and will end up getting the aux-3 box for it. Can I use tunnercat with the EBL? Alternator started overcharging last week and killed my air/fuel gauge then on the way to work to replace alt it quit charging almost didn't make it the truck started running real rich replaced alt now I cannot communicate with the pcm and my MSD went dead. Bought a new msd and ebl.

[91chevZ71]

Hey guys-

What are the main areas to address when tuning a 5.7 tbi with a 6 pound boost blower?

I'm not sure, here's what I think
1. Spark advance reduction- maybe to stock levels.
2. BPC change, more fuel.
3. VE change
A. tuning open loop w/ wideband??
B. 2-bar map sensor?
4. change plug gap to .035-.040-no platinum tips

What else? Hey blown, the EBL rocks. I'm gonna have to ask RBob how you hook up boost data to the EBL, though

I'm considering the wynjammer- bang vs. buck

[el bob]

Originally Posted by HaulnA$$

Just take the alternator and battery out and have them tested and replace the bad part with a good name brand. No sense in replacing something that isn't bad. As for the O2 sensor, replace it with an AC/Delco. Worst case, you have a spare that at least works, all be it slowly. WOT spark looks normal for a stock chip. A good tune and a slight bump in fuel pressure would wake things up. HTH

Hey HaulnA$$ thanks again for all the help!!! You Rock!

I took the battery and alternator to Kragen (Checker's)like you suggested and they both passed all of the tests they were put through. The parts counter guy recommended I go through and brush clean every contact between the battery, alternator and starter motor. I did this but it doesn't seem to have helped the hard starting very much. The lowest the voltage dips when you start cranking is 9.6 volts DC now, compared to 94. volts DC before.

I pulled the O2 sensor and it is indeed an AC Delco part like the shop said it was.

The thing I am curious about now is why the coolant temperature sensor never reads the engine going above 38° Celsius, about 100° Fahrenheit? Isn't the coolant supposed to warm up to around 200° F? The needle on the coolant gauge on the dashboard always points straight up (12 o'clock), but my latest Datamaster log shows the CTS never exceeding 37.3°C.

Does that sound weird to you?

Here are my latest logs from today on the way to and from lunch. I really really really want to get this figured out so I went ahead and bought/installed an Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor kit. I have not figured out a way to synchronize the two data sources yet (PCM and WBO2) but you can still see the AFR drop to 9-10 everytime my buddy taps the throttle.

http://kai.caltech.edu/datalogs/May28-toAU.uni
http://kai.caltech.edu/datalogs/May28-returnTrip.uni
http://kai.caltech.edu/datalogs/May28.log (need Innovate Motorsporst LogWorks2 to view)

The LogWorks2 file has two separate sessions within it that correspond to the DataMaster logs from the trip to and from lunch.

I don't really know what I'm talking about but I'm guessing the stumbling problem has something to do with the fact that the spark advance flatlines and the AFR drops to insanely rich whenever you hit the throttle. Any of that sound reasonable?

[91chevZ71]

try replacing both coolant temp sensors. the one in the driver's side head and the one on the manifold.

[walt h]

Does the temp gauge in the dash ever move or is it stuck in one spot? If it moves, you could have a stuck open thermostat.

[90'rado]

I've been slowly and meticulously studying this thread & all those related to it. It truly is blissful to have all this knowledge pouring into one place. I've just rebuilt my 350 TBI
in my '90 model Silverado, and I want to start learning how to tune it. However, being a total greenhorn to chip burning, I have become bogged down in all the stuff I need to get started.

I come to you all with a series of noobster questions:

I've downloaded both winaldl, and tunerpro. Is this software correct for my application, and do I NEED any other software?
(I always use a Macintosh computer, and from what I see, neither of these are Mac-compatible) I do however have a Dell Laptop about 7 years old or so, I'm thinkin' this would work?

What ALDL cable do I need?

To use flash chips, that requires a USB burner? (and chips)

Basically:
What is the ABSOLUTE cheapest way I can get into tinkering with my truck? What EXACTLY do I need to begin doing this on my truck??

Thanks!

[Buffalo]

This is the cable that I use.
http://www.aldlcable.com/
Is yours a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? If it's a 1/2 ton, then it most likely uses the 1227747 ECM and tunerpro should work fine for you. If it's a 3/4 or 1 ton then it most likely has the 1228747 ECM, and will need Tunercats to program it. Either way, you will still need a burner and some chips.

[90'rado]

Thanks for the info Buffalo!

It's a 1/2 ton. So from the sounds of it, all I really need to get is an ALDL cable, and a burner w/ some chips.

I have tunerpro(free version) and winaldl downloaded, but I'm wondering if they will work on the old Dell laptop I have. Mainly I'm wondering if the laptop I have will interface with my truck.

[Mjohnson 88 4x4]

Please help anyone:

I am ready to purchase a reader/burner.
I have around a $350 limit, so I could get the APU1 from Moates.
do i realy need all the options of the APU1?
Will it even burn the 27SF512 eeprom that i need to replace my 2732 chip? (in the product discription at moates it says it only burns AT29C256 and AM29F040 chips)

I plan on doing this for a while and would hate buy something now and want something better say next year

Any advise will be apreiciated.

[91chevZ71]

hey man, if you want the burn1 with a couple SF512's I could hook you up

[yager]

I'm having trouble connecting my autoprom to my 95 - 7274/$31 truck to simply log data.. With the same autoprom I can burn chips all day long, and emulate when hooked to my jeep (8746) I log it with winaldl..

honestly, I can't remember being able to log within TunerPro. I've twiddle settings and searched for problems online for months. I'm sure I'm doing somthing wrong I just can't figure out what..

Any ideas ?

[getsideways]

do you have the interface type in tunerpro preferences set to max232 or autoprom? this will have an effect depending on where your vertical switch is set at in the back. also make sure you are set to the right com port. and the horizontal switch needs to be set the opposite way that you put it for burning i think.

[yager]

When i log my jeep with winaldl im in RS232 mode (switch to outside) basically pass through. The 2nd switch in the center position.

When I burn AP switch in to the inside and TP/RT SW is setting is to autoprom. Software sees the Autoprom and as mention I can burn and emmulate with the 8746 stuff..

I'm using a laptop w/ The autoprom w/ USB cables as provided by Moates..

I just can't get a feed from my 95 truck.. Let me try some other settings and make a log of what im doing, what settings, switchs etc..

Thank you for the input.

[LOWGREEN1]

Are you trying to log with winaldl? If so I don't think you can log with that on the 95 trucks. If you want something to log your 95 with, I have my cables I'm willing to sell I got from moates. I would like $60 shipped. This is what I got. It's brand new, I maybe used it 3 times. The picture just shows the one cable but it comes with everything you need to connect. http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...roducts_id=128

[Destin]

Hey there,

Just got into tuning today, i have a 94 s10 4.3L. I was just planning on getting in there and checking everything out today, seeing how it sits together and how the eprom burner works and stuff, but i opened up my PCM to find some hypertech piggyback-type computer hooked in there. So, i took it all out and copied my standard chip and the hypertech chip onto the computer. I figured that the hypertech probably wasn't needed so i left it off and when i reinstalled my stock pcm it was idling ~1500rpm and seemed to be locked up in 4th gear(no power, no shifting.) Anyway, slapped the hypertech back on, works just like she used to. Am I missing something here?