My advice on lowering your truck static.

[burn-ntires]

i Have an 05 silverado. can u lower with just springs and blocks

[sLOWrado01]

springs in front yes, blocks in rear no, we dont have flipped axles we drive fullsizes... (unless you have an OEM lifting block under the leafs then yes n all youll get is an inch or two)

[burn-ntires]

yea don't know what the oem lifting block is so i guess not.so just need the different hangers or do i need the flip kit?

[sLOWrado01]

if you have a spacer in your u-bolt between your rear axle and your leaf pack that is a factory lifting block, some of the trucks come with them for some reason. search around for your other questions plz but hangers = 1-2" rear drop, shackles = 1-2" rear drop, flip kit = 6" rear drop, springs = 1-3" front drop. look more around the street section there are tons of these threads.

[burn-ntires]

thank you

[jarrodscot]

i have a 1995 chevy ext cab 2 wd 2 inch drop spindles and 3 or 4 inch drop springs and a flipped rear end and notch just put it all in however my stock 15 inch wheels are getting rubbed on the outer lip of the rim and dont have full turning radius. tried trimming lower a arm to clearence it but still rub so the rims i have are the same as the ss truck wheels. has any one else had this problem and did grinding them down help or wheel spacers or what. My buddy has a set of rally wheels and was bagged and never rubbed, i am not a fan of ralleys unless the trucks flat black but if i have to i will. suggestions any apreaciated. sorry bout lack of puncuation or capitalization but exhausted to make truck look sweet.

[Dr. Overkill]

Originally Posted by jarrodscot

i have a 1995 chevy ext cab 2 wd 2 inch drop spindles and 3 or 4 inch drop springs and a flipped rear end and notch just put it all in however my stock 15 inch wheels are getting rubbed on the outer lip of the rim and dont have full turning radius. tried trimming lower a arm to clearence it but still rub so the rims i have are the same as the ss truck wheels.

The instructions that came with your spindles should have said that they should be used only with 17" wheels or larger (or trim the end of the lower arms). You need to trim more.

I had quite a bit of material cut off the end of my lower arms, and then had some gussets welded in underneath the arm to strengthen it. (Sorry, no pix...) Don't just cut that lip off or you'll probably end up with bent a-arms.

[jarrodscot]

well unfortunatly since all my parts are reborn ( came off my brothers old bagged truck ) i didnt get all the fancy paper work or instructions. Not like i prolly would have read them. I put a 5.16th inch spacer in and barely rub the rim so i will trim just a hair more now and call it good. By the way i am guess from cruzin round last night i prolly have to notch that cross member support in center of bed seems like i am smacking my pumkin but i will crawl under today and see bout that. One note i could add to this or second it if someone else has all ready said it is that pickle forks 98% garuntee a torn rubber on a ball joint. And has any one else had the top plate holding axle in place hit the notch before. seems like there should be more clearance there?

[Black Nasty]

Can you use shackles alone to lower the rear 2"? If so what will it do to the suspension ride wise? Will it be stiffer or softer because of the extra long shackles?

I'd imagine bumps would be harder because the leaf angle but it would be softer in turns because of the extra shackle travel?

[dirtyaccord]

Does anyone have any good advice for putting either a 4/7 or 5/7 drop on an '06 NBS rcsb with a 4.3? I was originally planing on going with either the DJM 4" LCAs or 5" UCA and LCA combo plus the tie rod flip kit for the front but after reading through this thread it seems like that might not be the best route. Also can anybody tell me how drivable a truck like mine with a 5" front drop and stock 17's would be as a daily driver?

[sLOWrado01]

4/7 = 2" springs, 2" spindles up front. rear = 4" drop leafs, 2" shackles/hangers (put one on the lower notch) - or - axle flip kit and 1" shackle. I have the drop leafs/shackles/hangers in the rear with edelbrock IAS drop shocks all around with rear extenders, i also have the stock 17's and think its drive-able for a DD (though its not my DD), i still need to add a lower-profile transmission crossmember for added ground clearance and id recommend that to you also. id go with the 4/7 i love it, search around more n figure it all out.

[dirtyaccord]

Thanks for the info, i think im going to go the spindle/coil route in the front now. Does anybody use Doetch Tech Nitro Slammers on all four corners instead of the edelbrock IAS'. The DT's are more in my price range at the moment.

[Bigg G]

I'm running the DT Nitro Slammers on my 4/6 Silvy. I've heard that it's the same shock Summit Racing sells under their name so you might want to check that out to save a few bucks.

[dirtyaccord]

The shocks summit sells are DT 9000 series, not Nitro Slammers. Im heard alot of good things about the Slammers but not much on the Summits/9000 series. Anybody have any experience with the 9000's vs the slammers?

[BADRIDES]

Anyone have the link that shows how to trim LCA's to so I can run stock 454SS wheels and Belltech spindles on a 1996 Silverado?

[cmezum]

Originally Posted by ONEDSOB

My advice on lowering your NNBS static.
As some of you know I have spent a lot of time and money trying to get my truck to both look good and ride nice.

I started off with using McGaughys replacement leaf springs as well as drop springs and spindles. I would not recommend going this route. When stopping, the long hangers on the springs made the truck feel like the rear end moved forward after the truck came to a stop.

The Forward Mounts for the leaf springs are not the same size as stock, so they don't fit right either.

The front lowering springs held the right height for about a month then they sagged down to the point the front tires would rub the fenders when I hit bumps in the road, so much that the tires wore holes through the plastic fender liners.

I will never use McGaughy's again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



This is what I have now.

Bell tech rear flip kit.
Bell tech adjustable struts with OEM springs.
McGaughys Spindles.

The trucks ride is unbelievably nice.



So in a nut shell, to both save money and your sanity, go with the Bell tech flip kit, Bell tech adjustable struts and spindles, Bell tech rear Nitro 2 rear shocks.

EDIT..... 10-19-08
Quote:
Originally Posted by nox
FYI Belltech sells spindles/struts/flip kit/rear shocks in a complete kit. Part Number: 647SP

Thanks nox

EDIT.......... I forgot to list all the Part Numbers.......................

For the front you can use the Belltech lowering struts part #25003 and spindles part #2509 the good thing about using these struts they are adjustable, from +2 to stock to -1 or -2. They are adjustable in 8mm increments......

For the rear you need the Belltech flip kit part #6521 its adjustable from 4-6 inches, and if you don't remove the factory hanger almost 7.

You will also need new rear shocks, I would recommend the Belltech Nitro Drop 2's they are really nice. Part # 8510



Here are some pictures of how it looks today.....from the ground to the wheel wells its 33 and 1/8" up front and 33 and 1/4 in the back, with 275/55/20's And does not rub.... or bottom out.

also added some twice pipes and a Navigation unit.

Your my hero...Truck looks real nice. Did you have to notch the frame? and i think I read you did change your hangers? PITA
Also, are the bell tech spindles as good or the same as mcgaughys? Mcgaughys is loccal to me so I can probably get the parts for a little cheaper.

[ONEDSOB]

I did not have to notch the frame. You do have to change the hangers. Belltech spindles are as good if not better.

I am glad my post helped you out.