My advice on lowering your truck static.

[thecodeman]

Long post ahead. I got a PM and see many threads addressing questions about how to go about static drops and how they work in real life, so I thought I would make a post putting my .02 cents in, having driven a 96 chevy extended cab slammed 5/8 every day for 8 months now, day in and day out.

I'm going to give you all some good advice, because I have learned a lot working on my truck, doing all the work myself, and having to rely on it for sole transportation (which can be tricky at times like now, when its down most of the time for a full custom paint job ) . Anyway, as far as the suspension goes, I was/am in the same boat as you. I started with a 3/4 drop, and while it was cool and very streetable, I didn't like the rake too much. I wanted bags, couldn't afford it at the time. The reason I went with the 5/8 was because I already had the 3" coils and 2" hangers. That was mistake #1. Hangers. They are a total pain. You have to pull the bed to put them on and the rivets on the driver's side are blocked by the gas tank. So, I went my merry way to the local hot rod shop and picked up a 6" flip kit and 2" lower control arms. Mistake #2. LCAs + coils = alignment issues. I'm going to swap them out for spindles, and I will be able to align it all back to spec, and they wont rub the inner lip of my $600 apiece wheels like they do now Now, a 4/6 is a very streetable drop. The only real thing you have to cut is the frame for the bolt in notch. Sure, a 4/6 is cool.. but you want to go that extra mile right? I did. So, when you take the plunge and go 5/8 ( you know you want to) you'll want to use 3" coils and 2" spindles in the front, and a flipkit and shackles in the back. You could think that you'll be okay on the bolt in notch like I did, but you'll hate it instantly. There's no travel. So, knowing that I will want bags later, i went ahead and cut the bed out and welded in a monster notch from Suicidedoors.com . But, if you dont want the big hole and dont care about laying out all the way, get the same notch i did ( the 8" one ) and just trim it down to fit under the bed floor. I have plenty of travel in my notch, I can lay frame on 22s easy. Now, for the front, anything lower than 4" and you have to cut a notch in the frame for your tie rod ends. If those break youre screwed. You'll also notice your swaybar doesnt fit. Dont chunk it - I ran without it for a while and yes, it does make a big difference in these big trucks. What you'll need is some shorter endlinks. However, if you use DJM lca's, you'll notice that their brilliant engineering department designed them so that the swaybar is at some goofy angle and you end up busting out your bushings. Solution = redrill and tap the swaybar mounts on the frame. Also, dont forget your carrier bearing shim. Nothing is worse than taking off from a stop and getting that extra vibration jiggling your hot, expensive Starbucks all over your dash. If you go 5" in the front, and even with a wheel and tire combo that equals 27" in overall diameter like my 20s with 255/35ZR20 tires, you'll need to cut out or better yet modify your inner fenders in the front, cause rubbing them and bumping them sucks. And for peace of mind, even though my billet Intro wheels tuck perfectly, I rolled all 4 of my fender lips - no worries. And if your roads even slightly suck like they do here, you'll want a slightly larger profile tire, like a 45 or 50 series, something in there. Good luck, and remember - No fat chicks, the truck will scrape!

Cody

[CKTA]

Originally posted by thecodeman
anything lower than 4" and you have to cut a notch in the frame for your tie rod ends.

I disagree, I'm way lower then 4" in the front and mine don't hit. Nor do Matty's and I just did a 5" drop on his on Sat.

[454ss]

The only problem I have with the 5-7 is the ss has a 14bolt rear so the pumkin hits the bed on large bumps, it might even be cause the 3" exhaust pipes run over the rear, but no problems in the front at all. I drove it 58 miles from Doogies and then cruised around my crappy streets for a few hours yesterday and still no problem with the front.

[CKTA]

Are your tierods hitting or are the sleaves hitting. If the sleaves are hitting, you can rotate the, so the bolts don't hit.

[thecodeman]

Originally posted by CKTA
Are your tierods hitting or are the sleaves hitting. If the sleaves are hitting, you can rotate the, so the bolts don't hit.

I will post pics in a second.

[thecodeman]

Here is a before pic:


And here is an after pic:

[CKTA]

Ouch! All you had to do was rotate the adjustment sleave!

[thecodeman]

Originally posted by CKTA
Ouch! All you had to do was rotate the adjustment sleave!

No, I did that at first, and that whole outer sleeve was scraping. Had I left it alone, they would have gotten bent against the frame and then you're fubared without steering

[CKTA]

Originally posted by CKTA
Ouch! All you had to do was rotate the adjustment sleave!

BTW, where the hell is the sway bar?

Originally posted by thecodeman
No, I did that at first, and that whole outer sleeve was scraping. Had I left it alone, they would have gotten bent against the frame and then you're fubared without steering

Maybe the stock spindles are making it do that.

[thecodeman]

Originally posted by CKTA
BTW, where the hell is the sway bar?

That was during the part of my first post where I mentioned it doesn't fit worth a crap and I drove without it:clown:

Originally posted by CKTA
Maybe the stock spindles are making it do that.

Could be, thats why I want to redo the front with spindles.

[CKTA]

Has to be the stock spindles.

[BigChevMan]

I'm with dougie on this one. mine was 6-8 for well over 3 years. I never had a problem with my sway bar or my tie rods.

The only major problem I had was my y pipe got a little dinged, and my gas tank sheild was a little scraped....other than that..not a single problem in 3 years

[CKTA]

Yeah, it's definately the spindles....even on my '94 the tierods are almost level.....look at Codemans, his are on a pretty good angle because the stock spindle mounting hieght. That 2" spindle makes all the differance in the world I guess.

[justin]

How the hell did you two 's manage to cause a tranny problem while working on the suspension...

[CKTA]

Originally posted by justin
How the hell did you two 's manage to cause a tranny problem while working on the suspension...

I guess his yoke shaft (insert g@y joke here) was rusty and when the driveshaft went into the seal further it caused it to seap out some. No problems.......I was just figuing the worst..... as usual. I already had it in my mind i was going home to get the '96 and tow him back to my house.

[Beyond Static©]

The 2" lca's push the tierod mount up(on the spindles). A 2" dropped spindle keeps the stock tie rod mount. I was rollin a 6.5" drop up front, with no scraping of the tie rods at all. Now I'm rollin a 5.5" front drop daily with no scraping.

Fender wells-pull them out. I hit them all day long.
DJM cnotch-not worth a crap over a 6" drop
shock extenders- a must have
bed support over the differential-trim it so the diff doesnt hit
DJM coils- not meant for extended cab v8's. Stick with belltech's
Adjustable shackles- man's best friend
Hangers- man's worst enemy
y pipe- Get it raised if you go over a 4" drop.
exhaust in rear- dump it before the axle if using a 7" drop and up

This is a little of my advise in slamming your truck. A 4/7 drop is prolly the lowest you wanna go without cutting crap up. My bag stuff is ordered, so this low static crap is outta here.

[CKTA]

Originally posted by Beyond Static©

DJM coils- not meant for extended cab v8's. Stick with belltech's

Funny, my DJM's have been in for 6 years now. No problems.

[Beyond Static©]

My coils must have been duds. They slammed me 4.5" up front. StylinConcepts said nothing about a special coil for the v8 or extended cab. The coils made me come exactly 1" from tucking rim up front.

[454ss]

Originally posted by 5-8CHEVY
I've flipped them and the tie rod sleeves still hit the frame. I think it has more to do with the arms than anything since Cody is having the same issues but you guys with spindles aren't.

I'm thinking the same thing since I haven't heard a problem with a 5" drop with spindles and springs.


BTW
There is no tranny leak I just checked to make sure, it had to be cause you had it jacked up in the front all that time.

Originally posted by Beyond Static©
My coils must have been duds. They slammed me 4.5" up front. StylinConcepts said nothing about a special coil for the v8 or extended cab. The coils made me come exactly 1" from tucking rim up front.

That's why I like Belltech coils, they are made just for the 454ss and ext cab to hold the weight, I used hotckis 2" coils on my wifes ss and it dropped it about 3.5"

[projectsilvo]

i have a question about Aa 4/6 drop for my 96 silverado ext cab. i found a 4/6 drop for $399 and it includes spindles springs and rear flip kit is this a good price for this drop and how will the ride be w/ it and cody do u have a pic of ur truck w/ the 5/8 thanx for the help guys
joe