OBS 88-98 PST front poly bushing upgrade

[DjLunchbox]

Originally Posted by AirSchatz

So, what kinda advantage is there to doing this? Does this make for a smoother ride? Better handling?

it's better handling for sure, but you will tend to feel the bumps a little more. if you want smooth, install all rubber stock pieces, but they flex really bad
when cornering and i prefer the poly bushings. the poly doesn't brake down as fast as the rubber, helps in cornering and body roll, and chances are, your truck will need new bushings if it is a few years old anyhow, so why not go with the good stuff

[96thebossgrnchv]

my friends lifted fsgmc's front tire/wheel just broke off at the spindle, and the guy said it was the ball joint that failed, i'm kinda worried because i have 20k more miles then him right around 148563, how can i tell if i need to replace my balljoints/bushings? how much would it cost labor wise? nice write up btw.

[DjLunchbox]

Originally Posted by 96thebossgrnchv

my friends lifted fsgmc's front tire/wheel just broke off at the spindle, and the guy said it was the ball joint that failed, i'm kinda worried because i have 20k more miles then him right around 148563, how can i tell if i need to replace my balljoints/bushings? how much would it cost labor wise? nice write up btw.

to check your balljoints, you jack up the truck, so one tire is of the ground a few inches, and slide a prybar under the tire. lift up on the prybar and look to see if the balljoints have any play in them.


it's a good idea to replace them at this mileage anyhow. they should run you .... depending on if it's a 4x4.... maybe 100.00?? and labor would probab;y be... i dunno... 3.2 hrs... so @ 75.00 per hour... you're looking at around 400.00 when all is said and done. buy the whole pst kit and take a weekend and you'll save 100.00 and have a badass ride

[BlazerBax]

Very nice write-up.

This will come in handy when I rebuild my Blazer front end. I'm going to go with Moog ball joints, Moog tie rod ends and normal rubber bushings though. Even though the rubber doesn't last as long, it gives a softer quieter ride....which is the main reason I'm doing it.

[Koots]

Does anyone have an opinion on Prothane bushings? good or bad. i bought the kit but i haven't the time or money to get them installed cuz i dont have a good surface to do the whole process on, i wish i was still in school where i had a lift and flat ground and...you get the idea

[DefEddie]

Just thought I would mention that if you just want to do the control arm bushing's you can just take the entire spindle/disc/caliper assembly off as a whole and set it aside.There's no need to actually pull the brake's off.
It will save alot of time,but hope your strong and you need a buddy.That stuff is heavy for sure.
Don't forget to disconnect the wheel speed sensor from frame rail and pull the line out or you'll break it when you pull away the assembly.

Also have a question,I'm rebuilding my engine and putting a new injection on it right now and decided to drop it another inch and rebuild the front suspension while I'm waiting for the head's.I'm doing E.S. UCA/LCA poly bushing's,New Moog B.Joints,and POR-15.
I'm trying to shave as much weight as possible at the same time,and I'm tired of tightening down idler/pitman arm's.
So has anyone done a rack and pinion on the front of their truck?I'm going to swap one in since it's all apart anyway and was wondering if someone had did it already and what unit they used.
I can get them new easily for a good price,but wondering if someone else had done the measuring already.

[justinsinternet]

I have a Q? too.

I have torsion bars w/ the ford keys , do i need to do anything with that?

Thanks

[NDBoost]

Bump,
Are the lower ball joints press & rivet or are they just riveted in?

Ray @ P-S-T said its an extra $40 for the press in ball joints and i want to make sure he sent the right ones.

$460 shipped for a Blazer (93) polygraphite kit, and both inner tie rod ends. Just wondering what others paid and what they got.

[NDBoost]

bump! anyone know this at all or do i have to make another thread?

[1ugly88]

in a 93 blazer the lowers should be rivited in. the press in ones came in later models (95 & up, i think)

[NDBoost]

so break the rivets and it should come right out then?

[1ugly88]

yup, the hardest part will be getting the rivets out (if they're still in there) then the ball joint will slide out (may need coaxing with a hammer) slide new one in and bolt it down.

[NDBoost]

Sounds simple enough. Any little tips i should know about when doing this kit?

[1ugly88]

if they're still riveted in then find someone with an air hammer. chisel the heads off then drive em out with a punch in the hammer. will make short work of em. i've heard of people using torches but i'd be kinda hesitant on doing that.

[NDBoost]

Ive got no problems getting those rivets out. Ill probably drill them out. I have air tools. Doing the entire install incl inner tie rod ends this next weekend. But like i said any shortcuts or tips are greatly appreciated :)

[1ugly88]

the only prob i've ever run into while doing frontend work was that i can't grease my lowers once i install my tie rods. have to split em apart to get my grease gun in there. other than that, just take your time and have it aligned when you're done.

[NDBoost]

Bump, getting my parts in today. I will post pics to see what everyone thinks, and to help with verifying that the parts are indeed the same.

My upper control arm looks nothing like the ones pictured. Mine is a tubular frame.

[1ugly88]

Originally Posted by NDBoost

My upper control arm looks nothing like the ones pictured. Mine is a tubular frame.

mine are tubular too. as long as the ball joints look the same(mounting pattern and stud length) you should be alright.

[22tahoe]

Originally Posted by NDBoost

Ive got no problems getting those rivets out. Ill probably drill them out. I have air tools. Doing the entire install incl inner tie rod ends this next weekend. But like i said any shortcuts or tips are greatly appreciated :)

This weekend I did the top and bottom balljoints on my 99 chevy tahoe and what I did to the rivets was grind them off with a grinder. It didn't take long at all.

[NDBoost]

Heres the kit that P-S-T gave me. They threw in the swaybar kit too. (This kit was $100 more than the OPs kit, not sure why)

http://azsupracentral.com/ndboost/polyupgrade/

And here is the pics of my Current control arms
http://azsupracentral.com/ndboost/polyupgrade/old/

sorry for the night shots but its all i had time to get. Will be posting pics of the job this weekend. Im also doing diff oil change and gaskets as well as pitman arm, idler arm and probably cv boots. and Regreasing everything in the front End. Alot of work but i have about 3 whole days do get it all done. Along with air tools, a oxy/mapp torch and access to a mig welder if needed :)

Cant wait! Going to also hammer in my bumper corners to fit 32x11.50x15 on American Racing Alcoa's.

edit: another thing id like to point out is two things that were missed (that i found so far) on the intial writeup. Unload your torsion bars and remove them (is this necessary? someone please answer.)

and number two, is the upper ball joints the OP refers to are infact the lowers. The uppers are the ones that have to be pressed in.