OBS 88-98 PST front poly bushing upgrade

[1ugly88]

those are the correct uppers for your blazer. have fun with the bushings. i've only done my uppers so far. make sure you don't wreck the shells in the upper arm when you do them. i just drilled the rubber till i weakened them enough to get em out.

[NDBoost]

Ill drill or torch them out like the OP did. Worst case get some new ones for pretty cheap anyways.

[1ugly88]

i don't know where you can get just the shells. GM makes you buy the whole bushing to get just the shells.

[Toolman]

I have been fighting this for a week now. Had a few wrong parts, rain, and other B.S. Now I have an issue with the shocks.

[NDBoost]

Lol yeah, looking at my bushings im pretty sure that sleeve of mine is about to fall out as soon as you take those bolts off.

You have to see my tire. Bushings are so bad the top of my tire is inside my fender well and the bottom of the tire is sticking out like its supposed to be. Its bad.

I think my steering stabilizer shock is bad too because when i hit a bump the wheel spins as well.

Napa sells the bushings with sleeves for $28 a side. Thinking about worst case buying those and using them.

[NDBoost]

A little update from one thats completely redoing his front end.

I ordered the Polygraphite kit from P-S-T for $359 shipped. (Part #: TRSP01061B)
http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-1742-220-che...1992-2000.aspx
Polygraphite® Kit Includes:
* 2 Upper Ball Joints
* 2 Lower Ball Joints
* 2 Outer Tie Rods
* 4 Polygraphite® Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Upper Control Arm Bumpers
* 2 Lower Control Arm Bumpers

note: Not listed in the kit is 2 inner tie rod ends. which they sent me!

You will also get a free set of swaybar end links and bushings/brackets when you order this kit.


Now to the issue:

P-S-T sent me the wrong lower ball joints. Both my uppers & lowers are rivet in. I spent a good 2 1/2 hours on one lower control arm ball joint. I torched the control arm and tried hammering those rivets out. Gave up and took them to Pep Boys and had them pressed out for $100.

So let this be a lesson to anyone else thats doing this kit, double check BEFORE you order parts!

If you have K1500 4wd make sure you order the right kit. Also the kit i ordered for my blazer came with inner tie rod ends so have them double check that as well otherwise they might double charge you and send two sets (if you order inners, which is a good idea).

As for my truck, 4WD model K series have tube frame upper control-arms and i believe most (if not all) lower control arm ball joints are rivet in on 4WD models. the 2WD models are press in for the lowers and press in for the uppers (from what ive researched). So when you order the kit from them make sure to order the Rivet in for 4WD and the Press in for 2WD. Of course double check yourself by crawling under the truck and examining the lower control arm and look at the ball joints to see if theyre bolt/rivet in or Press in. I will post pictures of my Lower and upper control arms later this evening and update this post.

[jcmorris]

Actually i just got done doing Both a 89 K2500 4x4 which was riveted for both ball joints and a 96 C1500 2wd which had the riveted upper ball joint and the pressin lower ball joint. I found the best way to get it done with out the appropriate tools was to air chisel the top of the rivets off and drill the rivets to almost half way through the control arm, and this makes is easier to finish off with a punch and a hammer or a air punch. FYI if your using the drill make sure your start with a smaller bit for a guide so don't mess up your control arm with the bigger bit and use something like WD40 for lubricant while drilling. Good thread so far wish i new about the PST group purchase prior to buying all new MOOG parts.

Also check the bushing size I ran in to 2 different size bushing for the upper control arms 1 was 41mm and the other was the 43mm. Might be a good thing to check with some calipers prior to ordering to be on the safe side.It is never a good feeling after you have done all the work getting them off and the parts store is closed and the new bushings are the wrong size.

[NDBoost]

Jobs finished after ALOT of pain in my ass. Ill update my post tomorrow when i can actually think and am not so tired.

Ill just say it now, driving my truck with no shocks, and a 1" cranked torsion bar and im LOVING the bushings already :)

[92 Z71]

Hahaha, how's the ride with no shocks? That's too funny.

[NDBoost]

The rides actually great, i dont notice much of a difference TBH. I hate having that raked truck feeling though. 2" blocks in the rear and the alignment shop had to decrank my torsion bars 1" so they can at least get it within specs.

[Menard666]

I see a lot of you are using this on lowered pickups. Is this kit ok to use on the lifted trucks too, or am I better to go with Moog?

[NDBoost]

Originally Posted by Menard666

I see a lot of you are using this on lowered pickups. Is this kit ok to use on the lifted trucks too, or am I better to go with Moog?

Ive got a polygraphite kit on a 2" lifted blazer. Works good so far.

[Toolman]

What do you guys torque the lower control arm bolts to?