Recalls & Engine Knock Info

[3 slappers]

Here's the news as of 2-20-04,
I did get a hold of the GM customer service at 866 932-4368 created a file both for our fleet of slappers at work & for my personal trucks that was 2-19-04. This morning I got a call from the GM cusromer service, he wanted to know how many miles were on these trucks, of course on our fleet (about 35) they range from 10K to 80K. Well the answer came back that any of them with more than 50K they could do nothing & of course there realy isnt anything to worry about, the trucks under 50K they will look at on a individual case, so maybe we will get a little coverage. As for my personal trucks all are over 50K so I am SOL on those. I really didnt want to go with a different brand but maybe it's time to check out the Nissan's & the Toyota's.

[RUNRVS]

I've noticed a lot of trucks like mine with daytime running lamps out on one side. I just figured they had blown bulbs. Then my drivers side lamp went out , I got an extra bulb to replace only to find that the lamp outlet was melted halfway and brownish black. Has there been anybody else with this problem? Whats the fix?

Thanks,
Jonathan

[chevy454man]

i run 93 in my 01 Camaro and lemme tell you that LS1 knocks like a bastard...but after 2 minutes it quiets down...i also never move the car unless its been warmed up 10-15 minutes....even in warm weather...

Originally posted by RUNRVS
I've noticed a lot of trucks like mine with daytime running lamps out on one side. I just figured they had blown bulbs. Then my drivers side lamp went out , I got an extra bulb to replace only to find that the lamp outlet was melted halfway and brownish black. Has there been anybody else with this problem? Whats the fix?

Thanks,
Jonathan

thats why i like the 03's...you can shut the stupid daytime lamps off! and the headlights are no longer automatic

[maxchevy2003]

I think my dads 2001 ChevyMalbue V6 with only 10,000 mls has it when he was pulling away tonight l could hear it going down the road it sounded like l phoned him after to inform him he said he took it in and service manager said it normal l could just ring that guys neck thinking older people will just go away well l won't Monday anyone give me advice on how to aproch this guy.

[BRIDGEZ71]

My dealership works with BG-sure most of ya'll have heard of them,they supply the machines/chemicals for trans flush/coolant flush/decarbon intakes/e.t.c.-anyways,ive tried their MOA(motor oil additive)and have found that if I use it religiously every time i change the erl,no knock-i know it ain't a fix,but it quiets the quite embarrasing knock

[clutchNthrottle]

Originally posted by Blk02Chevy
I have an '02 Silverado with 4.8 has 20,000 miles. I don't notice any noise at start up but hear a light ticking noise after it is warm. It sounds more like a lifter tapping than a piston knocking. Anyone know of anything like this? I have been to the dealer, they told me about the CSK, I told them that it's knocking after it's warmed up. They did the top engine cleaner. That didn't really do anything but make my truck stink for a few days. I did get the warranty on the engine so I guess I'll see what happens.

I got the same thing on my '02 5.3L. I'm at about 30k now, but it's been around since I've had the tuck I think. A 5.3L cowoker noticed it but his truck doesn't do it. It's a light tick at all temps, frequency increases with revs, not too noticable unless the windows are down or the hood is up. Sometimes it goes away or I just don't notice it. Truck always gets 93 and I use Castrol Semi-syn 5w-30 every 3k miles. I though it might just be noisy injectors but 2 bottles of cleaner later, no difference...:thinking

[Black Z]

My 01 Z with the 5.3 has never had the knock problem. it has 29,000 miles on it, I always use 93 octane, and use 5w-30 Castrol Syntec oil with a AC filter, no probs!

[Powerband]

I've read about these 6Yr 100K GMPP warranties on various sites. I want to know what experience anyone has had with getting a major repair under this warranty. If factory warranty repair is so hard to get approved, won't GMPP warranty repair be worse?.

I have a serious "dry bearing" noise in 5th gear on my '04 Silvdo and Chevy is offering this to me. The dealer confirmed it but dealer says GM won't authorize even looking at it until it breaks (claiming all tranny noises-'normal') but there glad to send me a warranty...

[twostick]

99 Silverado w/4.8L and 5 speed:

Motor knocks when cold and still pulls real hard to redline @ 126,000 miles.

Always run the cheap gas and change oil @ 3000 miles.

[Ghostdog]

I have a 2001 Chevy 2500 HD and I started to hear the knocking noise and it has 62,000 miles ruffley I switched to the Highest grade gasoline and its gone.

[Tweederx21]

Has anyone had this Knock happen on a '04. Or has GM Fixed the problem.

[GLADIATOR]

I own an 02 3500 dually with an 8.1 liter. She burns oil and valvetrain clatters for 60 seconds when I start it. I'm gonna try for the extended warranty.I'll keep you posted on my experience.

[snoman]

Originally posted by cyanideg33
My 99 yukon denali has the same cold start knock. it has 99K on it and I thought it was just going bad!!! What a relief. It does go away after like 30 seconds after I drive it.

I suspect the the knock is really a undersized piston in the bore and after 30 seconds to a minute the aluminum piston swells up with heat and noise goes away. I have never heard of carbon in a ring causing piston to rattle in its bore. That is BS. If it is rattling/knocking cold it is because the fit it too loose to begin with. I have a 25 year old AMC 360 that has piston slap in it for a minute or two on very cold days and has been that way for many years now. It is more annoying than anything though.

[Mrwurm]

I have an 04 Silverado 5.3 ltr. My engine makes lots of noise at 7,000 miles. I took it in and complained of 'Spark knock.' They said all the specs are correct and that I should use premium fuel. I switched to premium and it reduces the clatter quite a bit, but I am not happy to pay extra for fuel to solve their problem. My owners manual says 87octane is all that is required. I should'nt have to pay for premium.

[snoman]

Originally posted by snoman
I suspect the the knock is really a undersized piston in the bore and after 30 seconds to a minute the aluminum piston swells up with heat and noise goes away. I have never heard of carbon in a ring causing piston to rattle in its bore. That is BS. If it is rattling/knocking cold it is because the fit it too loose to begin with. I have a 25 year old AMC 360 that has piston slap in it for a minute or two on very cold days and has been that way for many years now. It is more annoying than anything though.

It is not really their problem. People want high performance in a modern SUV and 87 octane does not cut it a lot of the times. Modern engines have 9.5 or higher compression which does not play well with 87 octane especailly on hot days. Even your owners manual will generally say use at least 89 octane (that is what leaded regular was 20 some years ago) YOur ECM on your moter tries to compensate for poor fuel quality by retarding spark but it only works to a point. You have a few choices, one is to listen to is knock and they other is to use plus or premium in it and you might find that it actually cheaper to operate at today prices because the ECM will retard spark less and yeild better fuel mileage. I do not use 87 in any of my fuel injected trucks.

[toneman]

Originally posted by snoman
It is not really their problem. People want high performance in a modern SUV and 87 octane does not cut it a lot of the times. Modern engines have 9.5 or higher compression which does not play well with 87 octane especailly on hot days. Even your owners manual will generally say use at least 89 octane (that is what leaded regular was 20 some years ago) YOur ECM on your moter tries to compensate for poor fuel quality by retarding spark but it only works to a point. You have a few choices, one is to listen to is knock and they other is to use plus or premium in it and you might find that it actually cheaper to operate at today prices because the ECM will retard spark less and yeild better fuel mileage. I do not use 87 in any of my fuel injected trucks.

That's not the point--or I believe that that isn't what the previous poster (Mrwurm) was trying to make; I dunno about your owners manual but my '03 YXL and '04 DXL manual doesn't "generally say use at least 89 octane". In fact, here is what both my owners manual states, verbatim:

"Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fule is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service."

The above is notwithstanding E-85 or CA fuel requirements, and assumes that the motor is completely stock. In any case, maybe 87 octane may not be the most ideal octane gas to use but based on the above, I don't think GM is saying that the need for higher (89+) octane is required or should be used as a fix (permanent or otherwise) for knock/ping issues. IOW--I don't see GM saying anywhere that our GM FS trucks/SUVs should use a minimum 89 octane (except the HO 6-liter engine used in the Escalade, which IIRC requires 91 octane) if you hear any knocking/pinging. Now, your owners manual may indeed state that a minimum 89 octane is required; however, it is fallacy to insinuate that a knocking/pinging noise isn't necessarily the manufacturer's problem, or that such a noise is solely due to the use of lower-than optimum octane fuel. Besides, it is total BS for a manufacturer to suggest the use of higher octane gas as a--if not the--fix for pinging/knocking noises when/if the owners manual clearly states that the minimum octane requirement is 87. If you read the last sentence in the paragraph I quoted above, you'll see that even GM states that if you hear heavy knocking with 87 (or higher, but it does explicitly state 87 octane), your engine needs service.

[snoman]

Good responce! There is 2 kinds of knock, spark knock and piston knock/slap that the thread originally covered. It is strange how people will spend 30 to 40,000 dollars on a truck, more on wheels and such and maybe even spring for synthetic and yet burn the cheapest and lowest octane fuel they can buy. The only vehical I use 87 in is a old 79 jeep J20 with a 360 and eight to one compression. It will even burn 85 or 86 octane without fuss yet runs real strong still.

[pflug24]

snoman, i couldn't agree w/ you more, i have run premium in it from day one, and the engine starts as soon as i hit the key and runs strong as hell. don't make sense do all kinds of stuff then go half ass

[chevync]

I bought my truck little ovr a month ago, its a 01 2500 HD with the 6.0, i noticed the "slap" within the first week, it has 50k on it, no problems, i switched to mobile one full synthetic 5w-30, ive noticed it doesnt make the annoying slap as bad as it use to, I also run 89 octane in it...

[toneman]

Originally posted by pflug24
snoman, i couldn't agree w/ you more, i have run premium in it from day one, and the engine starts as soon as i hit the key and runs strong as hell. don't make sense do all kinds of stuff then go half ass

So all of us who are pumping 87 octane gas in our stock (engine-wise) vehicles because the owners manual says it's okay to do so are "go(ing) half a**"? Oh well, as long as you don't mind adding to the oil companies profits...

If you've done some stuff to the engine so that it now needs higher-octane gas, then sure it makes sense to use it instead of 87 octane. But if the manual says your engine is supposed to run on 87 octane and it's totally unmodified--by using higher octane gas as a "fix" for constant engine knock or some other reason not related to engine performance mods, you're just avoiding the issue that there's an engine-related problem--plain and simple.

Someone explain the logic in this--if your vehicle is supposed to run on 87 octane and it knocks like heck, why the heck would you rather "fix" it by spending more money on higher-octane gas instead of having the dealer fix it for free (assuming of course your vehicle is still under warranty)?