You helped me with a post about 1 year ago. Got another question. Driving around i get up to 120 psi and some drops to 100psi. Light throttle or wot there's no line pressure rise. Unplug my tranny to default to max pressure. 250psi at idle. at 1300rpms it drops to 130psi, what do i need to look for before buying more parts. VB, afl valve/spring, pressure reg spring in pump? Has a .490 boost valve from sonnax but thats it. No other updates in the vb. Computer throws no codes either. I would like to be able to resolve this before replacing the 3-4 clutches that have finally gotten bad again. 94 ecsb k1500
Thank you for the phone conversation regarding my trans. The information you've given was a major help. I look forward to doing business with you in the future. Until next time, thanks again and God bless.
Dear sir: my check engine soon light keeps shutting off my A solenoid after a rebuildwith a new wiring harness and solenoids, I replaced the new A solenoid it tested 17 ohms with another new one that tested 21. What can be causing this only other symptom is my dome lite quit working. No rhyme or reason it just works when it wants to sometimes for a long time. Seems to work better after it gets warm. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you very much for your expertise.
Hey man, I was pulling an empty 12' utility trailer yesterday. I went through a four way stop and when my truck went to shift into second it started making a grinding squeal. I have an 03 Z71 with the 4l60e. The transmission was rebuilt last year with a 4l65e kit. I no longer have second gear or reverse. From what I have heard it sounds like the sunshell is now fractured and has to be rebuilt. With the trans already being rebuilt can it be rebuilt again?
I am having a flare on my 2003 silverado when shifting from 2-3. I'm pretty sure its not the clutch packs because the fluid is fine and theres no sign of debris in the pan. Someone said it could be the servo seals or check ball behind the servo. I seen you helped/replied to someone else with the same problem and was wondering how you would change the check balls. Your PM box is full so this is the only way to contact you. Any help would be great.
i just swaped an 350 turbo for an 700r4< an for sum reason at about 45 ta 50mph third rear kicks in an about 3 seconds later 4th. but let me explain, its an 1984 chevy c-10, the motor has been motified a lil. vortec heads, 280 comp cam, its an daily driver ive been thinking of gettin a stall thats fits tha cam.because rite now ive got tha engine idle way to low. this is a new trans,an sometimes i mite want to kick up a lil dust it starts trying ta slip r so it seems.
Ran out of room and had to edit/ split into 2 messages. Please read below message first.
If I bug this guy again I'm positive he'll tell me not to worry about it cause he's tired of screwing with me so I guess my question to you would be.......
Would this shifting issue be in the valve body? He always says he puts a washer or 2 somewhere to give it a good strong shift. Would this be in the pump or valve body?
He put a " reverse boost valve" and "kevlar reverse clutches" in if that matters.
I will be asking him about all this but I thought maybe you could possibly educate me on what's going on with this ( 4th tranny in a month). I HATE to pull it out again but I guess I will if I have to......
Any advice would be greatly appreciated and thanks for helping out that soldier in Iraq with his 4l60e. Your a special person!
Back about a month ago reverse went out of my 88 GMC 4x4 plow truck, I took it out and had rebuilt by local guy and I ended up cracking the new pump on the fresh tranny during install. Limped it for 8 hours plowing and pulled it back out to take back to tranny guy. He got another new pump and said clutches looked ok and I reinstalled. Slipped a little at 1rst while plowing and got worse..... 10 hours of "barely" plowing it was toasted again slipping badly.
He told me my 700r4 was a 1984 without an aux. valve body and the worse version of the 700r4, he decided to scrap it and build me an entirely different one for free. This one is an 88 or 89 700r4 he said..... put it in Wednesday night and it seems to work very well except for shifting from 1rst to 2nd.... instead of a good firm shift like most of his tranny's have the shift is slow and sluggish, I tried to adjust TV cable with no luck.
Can you help me out here. I'm not sure what part you guys are talking about. I think the problem is I am looking under an Avalanche and everyone is explaining part locations for trucks. Is the vent box the square black box aft of the fuel tank? There is a round black thing with an electrical connector on it to the right of that directly above the rear axle. Is that the selenoid? If so the hose attached to that is what you guys are saying needs cleaned out?
hey that sounds pretty familiar haha. i wish i had a scan tool. cause if the converter is good and its internal i could check input and output speed sensors. if the input is considerably higher than output the converter is good (for the most part) and its internal, right??
no reverse. and yea i built this trans twice in the auto trans class i just had at school. but the thing is that the ones we built were already on benches, they worked, and we had 15 grand in specialty tools not counting the 125k dollar transmission dyno and two transmission techs helping us. so im terrible at trying to find a problem. i am sorta familiar with this transmission and how it works but everything is still kinda vague. my question is with my random tools laying around and my little bit of knowledge could i pull this out of the car, diag it, fix it, and put it back in the car like its brand new? also if it helps i did the key dance and it came up with P0700, transaxle malfunction. oh and btw your inbox is full haha