yea man ive had it a few times on hondas, i cant specifically remember but theres a a relay in the fuse panel under the hood that goes in from the bottom of the fuse block its like a chrystler shut down relay but not exactly. if you identifix it you'll see a ton of hits on it
The ignition switch is fine. I started the car up again and jiggled the key to see if it would die again but it didnt. The thing that threw me off was that the tach would go to 0 but all the other gauges still worked normally..the car was still running, but i couldnt rev it..then it would die.
Tested ignition coil resistance and they werent within spec...replaced the ignition coil (externally mounted from the distributor) and one of the other techs had a known-good igniter layin in their tool box n they just told me to drop it in there as well. Test drove for 15 miles and it didnt do it again.
Just wondering if you've ever had the same issues before and whether it was the ignition coil or the igniter causing you the problem, or if it was even something totally different.. hopefully this car doesnt come back
Wassup man.just wondering if you've ever had this problem before.
I had a 96 Honda accord 4 cylinder 5 speed m/t. Customer complaint was that the car was running and then shut off. Tried to start it back up and it wouldnt. i start the car and go for a test drive and its running fine, so i figured something would happen at normal operating temperature. Pulled it into my bay and it finally gets to normal operating temp and then it dies. Tried to start it up and it wouldnt..I pulled the plug wires and the spark plug tubes were filled with oil. replaced the pedestal o rings, valve cover gasket, tube o-rings, wires (swelled up from oil), & plugs...also replaced the cap and rotor since all the rest of the secondary ignition components were being replaced. Car started up and ran fine...but this time while test driving it, the tachometer would just drop to 0 rpms, and then eventually stall. No stumbling occured. The rest of the gauge functioned normally even tho the rpms would go to 0.
its good...gonna have to replace one of the power steering hoses cuz its leaking but other than that everything else is good..oh and just gotta upgrade my alternator to a higher amp rating..i bought one and tried to drop it in but the harness wouldnt plug and i think i need a different bracket to get it to fit..i know theres a stock 140 amp alternator that can fit i just have to find it...i finally got a job in a shop..workin at a honda dealership. startin off doing all the light work but ive gotten my hands on doing brakes, and helpin out other techs with their stuff n i really like it..wish i had looked for a job in a shop sooner.
you could probly just decrank what you have to level it but if you want to lower it a bit id get drop keys and rear shackles. once you get the keys in and at the level you want you can install the shackles in the position you want in order to be level
idk if you remember the level my truck was sitting but the rear was lower than the front and lookin at other obs' i think my front was cranked a lil higher than normal, none the less my leaf springs are probably a lil worn, but do you think i would get away with just getting 2" drop keys...or should i go with the shackles too...wanna go for a lowered level look